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ERC siding & siding in general

Started by TexasTimbers, May 04, 2007, 04:35:53 PM

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DWM II

Don, I like that. What did you finish it with, and it looks like you cut a full 4 quarters on the 1x8's. Also did you plane or are they rough sawed?
Stewardship Counts!

Furby

Kevjay, not the same as the rock wall, but there are gravel covered foam panels at the box stores in case your wife REALLY wants a stone type material around the foundation.

Larry

Quote from: WDH on May 06, 2007, 11:28:56 AM
Here is a shot of the front.  As you can see, I live in the woods ::).

The front porch is 40' by 12'.  However, nothing fancy.  The rustic siding fits in with the surroundings, definitely not a suburban thing :).

I like your porch WDH...quite similar to the one I built in Missouri, only I had to plant the woods as we built in the middle of a bean field. ;D
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

WDH

Don,'

I had my barn done just like that.  I like it ;D.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

WDH

Larry,

At least there was plenty of residual fertilizer to make the trees grow fast :D.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

treebucker

Kevjay,
I see things took off while I was away milling. Anyway, my concern about cutting ERC thin across a wide board then exposing it to the elements is that it seems like it would split. I know cedar is fairly stable but it also splits easily. Anyway, what do I know?

You must have an ample supply of cedar to be able to cut so many 12' 6-8" (?) boards. I guess I've seen too many defects in cedar. I love cedar but it seems like a lot of work. Most of the logs are small and the bigger ones are often filled with dry rot and/or bark inclusions.

I like WDH's approach. You spend less time at the mill and in the wood shop profiling the wood. DV does look good. But after your experience with your wife's reaction to WDH's stone, I wouldn't show her any high-labor pictures. :D
Last night I lay in bed looking up at the stars in the sky and
I thought to myself, "Where the heck is the ceiling?!" - Anon

Don K

Donnie, I sprayed it with a 50/50 mixture of burnt oil and diesel last year as a quick cover. soaked in pretty quick but helped with weathering like I hoped. I am going to rebleach and spray some type box store oil stain this year. I cut it on the 1" true scale on my LT 15. And no, I didn't plane it, that just the usual high quality cut you get with a WM.   :D :D :D ;)

Don
Lucky to own a WM LT40HDD35, blessed to have a wife that encouraged me to buy it.     Now that\'s true love!
Massey Ferguson 1547 FWD with FEL  06 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4X4 Dozer Retriever Husky 359 20\" Bar  Man, life is getting good!

WDH

Don,

It is hard to believe that the siding has not been planed ;D.  Being a Woodmizer LT 15 owner myself, what can i say but............tell it like it is, brother :D.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Cedarman

We saw a fair amount of beveled siding. Usually 1/4" at thin edge and about 5/8" at thick edge. Usually 6" or 7" wide.  Splitting is not a problem with cedar as long as boards do not have that seam in them that some logs have.  You can take a board with a seam and break it in half with your hands.  We have sawn boards  1 1/8" plus, planed both sides and then run through the siding resaw to get 2 beveled boards with planed faces.  Lap siding should be installed with the nail in the top board not penetrating the bottom board.  This allows the board to move a little through when the MC changes. 

If I am sawing just a few beveled siding boards that have both faces planed, I put a 2" cant on the mill, shim the outside edge to give the proper bevel, place the board to be split on this cant and then another thick cant on top to make the board to be beveled flat so I can have uniform thickness.

ERC makes nice siding. 
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

TexasTimbers

Great ideas all. I was hoping you would chime in Richard. You covered how you do it, what do you think of doing like I have settled on - just cutting it 5/8" and planing down to whatever it takes probably 9/16ish? I don't think it is too thin do you? Keep in mind I am nailing this to a solid nails base not studs, so I think I can go al little thinner like this. Your thoughts?

treebucker, our cedar down here in these parts has to get in the 24"+ range before it starts to punk or rot. I have cut trees nearly 3 feet that were still solid or mostly solid. that is rare though. Making 8" boards at 20' is still possible and at 12' common. I just sold a mantle a few weeks ago that was 18" x 9' long, and it was the middle sawlog from that tree not the bottom sawlog. The bottom was turned into slabs; a 24" slab with no live edges, two 20"ers, and two 16ish+ inchers and sent to West Texas. i wanted to keep them like I do all my nice cedar but his wallet talked so loud it was difficult to ignore him. ;D
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

WDH

Kevin,

Would it be better to leave off the poly?  What will the sun do to it?  Any chance that rough sawing it and leaving it natural to weather naturally will look better?  I don't know, I will admit it.  However, I have seen siding coated with weather seal like Thompsons Weather Seal that turns dark at the top.  Don't know it that will happen with poly.  If ERC is left natural as siding will it hold up to the weather?  Maybe Richard can answer this question. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

TexasTimbers

You could be right but here's what i have done as far as research. This test piece below is going on 3 months in the direct sunlight with full exposure to the sun at a 90°, out in the open rain, freezing etc. (The freezing part is done for a while thankfully). My siding will not be exposed a such. the house is getting a wrap-around porch all the way except on the east side where the 16 x 48 timber frame addition ells off of it, so the exposure will be limited indirect sunlight, part of the day.
The product is Minwax Spar Urethane (doesn't say "Poly" anywhere on the can)and the label says this stuff is made for this application, although it did not name siding specifically it said interior or exterior doors windows trim outdoor furniture  etc. It says it has "Exceptional Protection" against sunlight exposure and they added more UV stuff inside.
Just says it isn't recommended for floors. they probably did not mention covered/protected siding because they weren't thinking some idiot would use ERC for siding and spend a small fortune to tryand preserve the color as long as possible. Both my wife and I really dislike how ERC turns to gray and silver and would rather use something else if we had no option. I realize in a few years we will have to redo it but we'll cross that bridge when we get to it. By then Global Warming will probably have ignited the earth's surface anyway and i will have gotten out of that honey-do. 8)

The piece below like I said is going on 3 months direct exposure. The brown patch has no urethane is just naked. The one below has one coat of the Spar Urethane, the one below that 2 coats, and the bottom one has 3 coats. You can't tell by looking probably, but there is barely an appreciable difference in the three coated test patches. Obviously, the untreated spot shows just how bad it will turn with no protection.

Never mind those black streaks that was an unrelated accident after the board was treated.







So anyway as usual I am thankful for your thoughts and welcome any others you have. the more feedback the better.
I might also mention that I gave rave reviews of a product by Defy; well all their stuff stains the cedar to the extent it looks terrible and did not weather nearly as well as the Minwax. This stuff so far is outstanding. Thanks to Arkansawyer for recommending it to me!
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

WDH

So Kevin,  You are a scientist 8).  Nothing like research ;).  Seems like you have done your homework.  Go for it ;D. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

TexasTimbers

Scientist I wish! Anyway you might re-read my post I added a few comments while you were reading it even though it does not reflect a "last edited" notation. I must have clicked "modify" right before you clicked "post". :)
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

WDH

The results speak for themselves.  That is some dramatic test.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

DWM II

The urathane looks to be worth the effort to me. ;)
Stewardship Counts!

beenthere

kevjay
Yer thinkin after two-four years in the sun, that the finish won't be blistered off'n the wood? That will be a pretty impressive finish if it doesn't blister.

Usually the wood beneath the finish fails from the UV of the sun, and the finish no longer has anything to hang on to, so it blisters. Hopefully there are enough UV inhibitors in your finish to keep the wood underneath from going to pieces. That is one of the long-time risks.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

TexasTimbers

Well of course I don't know bt, that is why I said "I will probably have to redo it in a few years" but remember this siding is not going to be out "in the sun" it will be under a covered porch, with little to no direct sunlight on most of it. The only direct sunlight any of it will see is in the winter when the sun is quite southerly and will hit the bottom of the southern face, but it will also have hedges and railing and benches and potted plants (dead because it is winter remember ;) ) and maybe enough dust to help out a little too.
I just know that spmething is better than nothing. I am open for a better suggestion.
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

beenthere

You prolly in good shape then.   :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Handy Andy

  Thought I would throw in my 2 pennies.  Used to have problems holding paint over wood boards unless I primed them front back, both edges and ends.  Then they were sealed and would hold the paint.  The wood siding around here sheds the paint regular, and my theory is the entire surface of the siding is not sealed. (on the back)
                                                                Jim
My name's Jim, I like wood.

Cedarman

Will kids be playing ball and maybe miss a catch.  If the baseball were to hit the board just right, it might crack it.  That is the only reason I know of to go thicker. 
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

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