2x6 rafter connection to ridge pole/plate log

[kboilers]

  I wanted to thank stump_jumper and family for stopping by and milling the flats on my ridge pole and plate logs.  They did a great job!!  Sure beats ripping those flats with a chainsaw.  A year and a half ago, they milled flats on my first four logs - 14 rounds later the walls are almost done.  I'll use bigger logs next time.

- Ridge pole

- Plate log

  I'm planning to use 2x6 rafters that will be connected to the ridge pole and plate log.  What are some good ways to make that connection?  Most of the metal ties I've seen usually connect into a vertical surface.  Since I'm using round logs, there aren't any vertical surfaces.

Thanks - kboilers

[Jordan]

Well, you could drill & drive oly-logs, put in toenails (if you're uplift is okay otherwise), or possibly try

http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/LSU-LSSU.html

if the connections are within 45 degrees of perpendicular.

[LedlieLogs]

kb, I'm sorry that I can't help with your question but I did want to say that your house looks great. Really nice job you are doing there. How about some more pics of the whole thing and some details about it.
Thanks,
Ledlie

[beenthere]

Where are da pics showing what stump-jumper and family did done  ??? ???
We like pics.....and they apparently did not use the chainsaw.... :

Great looking shop ya got there.

[Don P]

Are the gables going to be framed and rigid or log and settling... if the latter then one end needs to be pinned and the other slides as the pitch and rafter line length changes.

Could a framing angle on the flat and other leg up onto the rafter, like a Simpson L50 work?

[kboilers]

Where are da pics showing what stump-jumper and family did done  ??? ???
We like pics.....and they apparently did not use the chainsaw.... :

Great looking shop ya got there.

I took some pictures the first time around of the milling operation, but not this time.  I'll try to find them.  That mill is a nice piece of machinery.

Are the gables going to be framed and rigid or log and settling... if the latter then one end needs to be pinned and the other slides as the pitch and rafter line length changes.

Could a framing angle on the flat and other leg up onto the rafter, like a Simpson L50 work?

The gables will be rigid, so it makes things a little easier.  On the Simpson website, I haven't found a typical installation that matches my layout.  If I use a strap or angle tie, should I screw them in place?  I've never built a roof before, but it seems like connecting into a 45 degree surface would make the roof more susceptible to uplift and screws would be better than nailing them in place.
  For the rafters on the ridgepole, is there any benefit to connecting them together and also to the ridge pole?

[Don P]

The way I see it you will have the fasteners down to the log in withdrawal instead of in shear in an uplift. We've had it drawn that way with JA-5's and nails before(I think thats a kant sag #, its a 5" angle, a bit heavier than the L50). The numbers on the LSU's looked better than on angles.  A structural screw would do better than a nail in withdrawal.  I've attached rafters to each other with a Simpson flat strap over their tops.

The ridge should be sized as a beam capable of supporting the roof if there aren't ceiling joists, otherwise as it sags it thrusts against the plate log and causes it to roll outward. If you're doing ceiling joists then the triangle formed is rigid and can't thrust. How are the logs attached to each other?

[Stump Jumper]

Here are some of the pics that we took. 8) Got to see his almost 1 year old son and the Mrs. as they were walking by. Enjoyed working for him as he was easy to please. :D

This is the ridge log.


From Left to Right Stump Jumper, Mrs. Stump Jumper, and Kboiler (Kurt)







Looks like Kurt is doing a wonderful job on the whole project.  I really like his joints they fit nice. 8)

[kboilers]

The ridge should be sized as a beam capable of supporting the roof if there aren't ceiling joists, otherwise as it sags it thrusts against the plate log and causes it to roll outward. If you're doing ceiling joists then the triangle formed is rigid and can't thrust. How are the logs attached to each other?

  Based on some basic beam loading calculations from the log span tables, I upsized my ridgepole and cut a new one this past winter.  The plate logs will have lock notches.

  Being new to roof design, are there basic formulas for determining the rafter size and spacing needed to support the loading?  I assumed I would use 2x6's, but if 2x4's can handle the load I would opt for the lighter roof.  The roof span is 11 ft wide, with a 12/12 roof pitch.

[Don P]

http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/calc/timbercalcstyle.asp
http://www.wclib.org/SpanCalc/SpanCalc.asp
The CWC (Canadian Wood Council) Span Calc is down till the end of May for an upgrade, might be worth checking it out when it comes out again.

It looks like you're using red pine to me, it would be under "Northern Species" on the calcs. I was hitting snow load and then using the max dead load possible. You need to check your snow load for the area and see that it and the dead load aren't over that total.

I think I can make it work in 2x4 on 16" centers but sure wouldn't want to use under a 2x6 without grumbling  .

[kboilers]

Thanks for the link.  I'm located near the 35/40 snow load line.  Looks like I'll stick with the 2x6's.

[Furby]

Well I got the chance to meet up with Kurt today and check out his project.
DanG good job he's doing with it!!! 8) 8) 8)

Nice to meet you Kurt, and I look forward to seeing more o your project and maybe seeing you again at the piggy roast!

[kboilers]

 
Nice to meet you Furby, thanks for your help!!!

Here's Furby and stump_jumper in action.  The roof has begun.... 8)