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Replacing Roller Bearing assembly on 1995 WoodMizer -How to question.

Started by LOGDOG, March 18, 2007, 11:07:02 AM

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LOGDOG

Hi Everyone,

   I'm replacing my roller bearing assembly on the 1995 WMLT30 that I recently bought. I intended to just replace the bearings and ordered that assembly. No problem there. I also replaced the blade guide arm with a new one. That said, on taking the roller bearing assembly apart and trying to remove it from its housing I ran into a little trouble. There is a shaft that runs through the bearing. On the tooth side there is a 3/4'' nut and on the very back side of the roller bearing inside the housing there is what appears to be a 5/8" flat,thin, square nut. For the life of me I can't get a wrench inside the housing to get a hold on the flat, square nut. It's wanting to just spin. Soooo ... do any of you have a special trick for getting that assembly apart? Do I need to go to the automotive store and try to find a small flat wrench with skinny shoulders on it to get in there? I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something before I run into town for a wrench. It's Sunday otherwise I'd call WoodMizer. Thought some of you had likely been down this road in the recent past and could refresh me. Been a while since I've had to do this.

Thanks as always.

LOGDOG

WH_Conley

I ground a cheap wrench on both sides to reach back in there. Keep spare bearings in stock, had one hang up this week, 20 minutes back in business.
Bill

millit

I have wedged a flat srew driver in there it,s not that tight

LOGDOG

Thanks guys. Looks like I may be grinding down a cheap wrench. Automotive store didn't have a flat low profile one. Those studs that are in the housing and run into the block directly behind the flat top bolt I spoke of - are those studs loc-tited or welded into that assembly? This would the square end of the piece that has a 1/4" threaded stud coming in from top and bottom and then on the very back has the 4 threaded studs with nuts on them for alignment. If I could remove one of the two studs that assembly could slide out of the housing and allow a regular wrench in there. I actually tried wedging several items in there for friction. No go. Hard saying what year of running water and such has done to encourage rust and seizure. I'm headed back out to give 'er a go. Thanks again.

LOGDOG

LOGDOG

Well, good news. I went out to my toolboz and dug till I found the biggest screw driver I had with a bit of a wedge shaped tip. Stuck it in there and with the counter clockwise rotation I got a good pinch on it between the housing. She turned right out. Thank guys! Gotta love the forum.

LOGDOG

LT40HDD51

Big flat screwdriver is the standard tool of choice  ;D. Ive reached in there with the mig welder and burnt a tack between the bolt head and the housing too... Not too big a tack and you can still get it apart pretty easy.
The name's Ian. Been a sawyer for 6 years professionally, Dad bought his first mill in '84, I was 2 years old :). Factory trained service tech. as well... Happy to help any way I can...

LOGDOG

That tack weld isn't a bad idea. I've got it apart and back together now, but I wonder how a dab of JB weld on one of the corners would do? Whatcha think?

LOGDOG

LT40HDD51

The name's Ian. Been a sawyer for 6 years professionally, Dad bought his first mill in '84, I was 2 years old :). Factory trained service tech. as well... Happy to help any way I can...

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