About to jump off the cliff

[pegs1]

Well.....

I think we are about ready to buy our first sawmill.

I'm leaning towards the TK 2400 with all the bells and whisltes.   But I also found a guy in Texas that makes a "LogMaster".
http://www.logmaster.com/


Anyone have any experience with a Logmaster?   Appears to be a pretty bare bones unit but longer than anything I've seen.  And thier email response was they would build it as long as I wanted it rather than trying to add to it later.

I need to cut at least a 30' timber but everything I've seen appears to be built for shorter logs with the "option" of adding longer tracks.   But it seems like you have to give up a lot of the functions/hydraulics/setworks when you add to the length.  Plus all of the attachments, rollers etc are all hard mounted for the orginal sized track.   Not sure how all of that is going to work once I add to it. 

I really don't want to spend a ton of money then have to modify it on day one to use it.

Almost all of our timbers will be 18-24 ft with the few odds ones up to 30ft.

Any advice would be really helpful.

[WH_Conley]

A buddy of mine has a TK, I think he said 56 feet of bed, I'm not sure of that. I do know he cut some 36 ft 2x6's on it, glad I wasn't pulling them. His mill has an extra turner on the extension I beleive. Been a while since I saw it.

[brdmkr]

tcmpsi has a logmaster I think.  Maybe he will chime in with his experience.  Sounds like the big decission, to get a mill in the first place,  has been made.  Your hooked now 8)

[solodan]

Pegs, how many 30's will you be cutting, cause it is possible to cut longer logs on a shorter mill, but it is just a bit more time consuming. If you only need to cut a few long ones but don't want to sacrafice some of the functions then maybe a shorter standard length mill would be better.  In this game it seems we all have to comprimize something, that is unless you've got real deep pockets.

[pegs1]

Solodan,

Thats exactly the problem.   On an average house theres only about 3 30 footers.   So for a whole year we would only need to cut maybe 24.    Then theres probably another 100 in the 24-30 ft range.   The rest are all 24 foot or shorter.

But we still need to be able to cut the 30+ foot ones.

[Kcwoodbutcher]

Call Timberking, they would most likely build a 2400 to length you need and I think it has two turners standard

[tcsmpsi]

pegs

I have an 'extended' version of a logmaster standard mill, built to my wishes.  Actually, I was a bit surprised at the overall effective manner in which it was 'extended', as it was all single length iron, no patching and splicing, etc.

Which mill are you looking at from LM?  If you are looking at the TK 2400, are you looking at the LM6 (comparative price range)?  I'm not sure what you mean by "bare bones", especially with the LM6 (if that's what you're looking at). 

I just have the LM1 manual mill, and it is pretty bare bones, alright.  But, it's all stuff I can work on.  I had to wait longer than expected, but other than that, they've worked with me very well.

[Woodwalker]

Pegs1, I can't tell you anything about Timberking, but I've got a LogMaster and I can tell you it is built hell for strong. Parts are off the shelf and the folks there are good people to do business with. They will build as simple as you want or add whatever bells and whistles you want.
Wade

[Larry]

pegs1, search is your friend...I remember several threads that may be of interest to you.

This one resides in the treeless and barren state of Kansas.  Takes all week for the poor folks at the mill to find nuff trees to feed it for even half a day. ;D ;D

[scsmith42]

Pegs, I take it that you'll be using the mill to cut beams for timber frames?  If so, have you considered a swingmill such as a Peterson?  It's a great way to cut long beams, and extending the track is easy.

Scott

[Ivey]

Pegs,   I picked up my Log-Master LM4 about 5 mo. ago. Am not up on the build of other mills,-(I will be after sawlex) but I can tell you that my mill is built strong, that was one of my main concerns. When a 6,000 lb. log rolls off the loading arms it will jar any mill frame, welds are very important. Have had no problem with my Log-Master,other than a hydro pump- I called, they sent me a new one, and I put it on.
  IMO Log-Master is a good mill, it was for me anyway,but I think most all of the mills that are made nowadays are pretty good--they have to be to stay in the game because there is so much competition out there. Good luck with your choice, its a hard one I know..

[pegs1]

Thanks all for the responses.

I only just started looking at the swing mills.   We aren't looking for anything particularily portable as the mill will end up at the shop after the building is built. 

I've been reading about the Swing Mills and most of the threads I have read seem pretty concerned about the quality of the dimensional lumber or slabs they can cut.   I'm more concerned about the timber thats left over.

The swing mills seem to be designed more for cutting dimensional lumber.  I'm not to concerned about the extra lumber since the cost of the timber is already less than I am paying now for the timbers.... So I don't really need to try to recoup any other lumber costs.   Its just a bonus for us.  In fact the cost of the machine isn't even our biggest concern.

We spend enough on timbers in one year to buy a pretty high end machine.

Not to sure which LM we are looking at but I know for certain I want it to be hydraulic, long, and heavy duty.   Setworks would be nice too. 

Without a doubt the single most important ability of the saw will be to cut a long 8+ x 8+  timber as straight as possible.   Planning one of those long ones is no picnic so the closer it is to perfectly straight and square to start with the better.   Thats the biggest reason we are looking at our own saw now.   The sawyer we get our timbers from seems more concerned with production numbers than accuracy, which results in a lot of extra time for us to square and plane the timbers, not to mention we have to pay for an extra 1/2 over just to make sure we have enough timber to work with.   Even then sometimes the 1/2" isn't enough and we have wasted a lot of time on a timber that has to be recut to be used for something else.   So speed isn't our first concern.   Accuracy and a square timbers is....

I can work around a lot of features and problems to end up with a square, straight timber, but without a doubt that is the single most important aspect we are concerned about.   

[Bro. Noble]

Pegs,  You got me to thiking.  We have a WM LT 4o HD and it does a fine job on the stuff that is 20' and less.  We have a lot of large pine that we really havn't tried to market and have thought about trying to develop a market for cabin logs and beams and timbers.  There isn't a very good market in our area for pine,  but If a person could saw stuff longer than 20' ,  I believe he could sell quite a lot.  I think I'll look into swing mills.  As long as I've been on this forum,  I know almost nothing about them and have never seen one operate.  Maybe that's what we both need------a hyd. bandmill to saw up to 20' stuff and a cheaper swingmill set up to saw looong stuff.  Might be less expensive and more satisfactory in the long run?

[tcsmpsi]

pegs

The logmaster LM3 up through the LM5 have setworks as an option.  The LM6 (a little less than the TK base  $$$ wise) comes standard w/setworks. 



They will weigh around the 7,000 lb mark, give or take depending on the model.

Ivey's got the LM 4, not sure with setworks or not. 

I believe you can tell from the pic posted by Larry that they are pretty sizeable and heavy-duty.

[Furby]

That being the case Noble, maybe you need to make a run over to S. Carolina for SAWLEX.
Call it business research and deduct your expenses. ;)

[Captain]

The big challenge is finding somebody to take care of the stoopid cows....

Captain

[Dave Shepard]

What is the maximum capacity of a swing mill in regards to the maximum cant it can make? Typically timber frame beams are 8x8s or 8x10s etc. but can be much larger.


Dave

[Furby]

Hear that Noble ???
Captain just offered to cow sit for you!

[LT40HDD51]

...We have a WM LT 4o HD and it does a fine job on the stuff that is 20' and less... but If a person could saw stuff longer than 20' , I believe he could sell quite a lot... Maybe that's what we both need------a hyd. bandmill to saw up to 20' stuff and a cheaper swingmill set up to saw looong stuff. Might be less expensive and more satisfactory in the long run?

Have you and pegs1 considered a WM with a 24' extension? The extension can be placed on a concrete pad, and the mill can be hooked up in an hour or two when you need to do the long stuff, up to 45' (or 33' with a 12' extension). Then the mill could still be portable in the 21' length for other jobs...

...Without a doubt the single most important ability of the saw will be to cut a long 8+ x 8+ timber as straight as possible. Planing one of those long ones is no picnic...So speed isn't our first concern. Accuracy and a square timbers is....

I know from experience that these mills can do what you want them to, but like anything they need to be set up and run correctly. Ive split a chalk line down a 18' log right in half with my blade for a local log home builder, cutting the ridge pole for a 12/10 roof. We recently set up a mill to cut timbers for a timberframer near here too. Like you, accuracy was his biggest concern, and we spent a little more time than average setting his side supports etc. up just perfect. Then we cut a few timbers while I was still there, and they checked them all out for square and size. The customer was extremely impressed, and he had hired an experienced sawyer to do his cutting. They are doing just fine now, a year later.

Please dont take this as a big sales pitch, I just have quite a bit of experience with the WMs and know what they can do  ;). I"m sure there are other mills out there that would do the job nicely  

[pegs1]

Bro Nobel.

I have had that same thought running around in the back of my head as well.

From what I've read some of the really serious sawyers do have both.   Since they can both do some of the same things, but not all and each has a special ability to do a few things better than the other.

I would really like a bright shiney new one, but maybe the answer is two used ones.   A swingblade and a bandmill.   Probably could get two used ones for the price of one new one.   

And when one breaks down.   (I've heard they do that lol) then I wouldn't be teats up completely.

That LM does look pretty heavy duty.   And I have several guys that could weld two spider webs together if they really wanted too.  They are pretty good.   So I'm not to worried about adding on to a used one.   Just really didn't want to start grinding the paint off a brand new one to weld on it.

But I would really like a bright shiney new one .

But if I get a used one I won't have to beat my head against the wall when they tear it up either. 

Got a new rough terrain forklift last year.   They broke the window the first week.   A month later they ran over a neighbors dock with it at a job site.   I swear the more stuff I get the more stuff that gets broke  .   I must be nuts getting a sawmill.

[379hammerdown]

I already jumped off the cliff... but I'm still falling eagerly waiting to hit the ground! I've ordered a LogMaster LM2 about a month ago, and hopefully it will be ready by June. Its been a very long month so far... hopefully the next two or so will go faster!

Youre certainly going to be pleased with the construction of these mills. I visited the facility before I decided to order one. They are SUPER tuff, and they are much larger in person than they look in the catalog's... Since I havent used mine as of yet, I cant comment on the cutting abilities (Which no doubt will be fine) but the construction looked to be outstanding.

I know youre considering various options, which is a good thing... but I doubt you would be disappointed if you purchased a LM*

BTW, Hey tcsmpsi!

[Ianab]

What is the maximum capacity of a swing mill in regards to the maximum cant it can make? Typically timber frame beams are 8x8s or 8x10s etc. but can be much larger.

Dave

An 8" swingblade will cut an 8x8 as easy as any other dimension. Double cutting will give you up to 8x16 without too much fuss. Moving the beam off the mill is probably the hardest part  :D But I guess you know that and will have a tractor / loader to help.

If you needed to go bigger still you could allways roll the log over and cut from the other side, just saw away everything thats not a beam.

Cheers

Ian

[tcsmpsi]

Hey, hammerdown

I see you decided to up the ante a bit on your mill decision.   ;D

Did you stay gas or go diesel?

[Ivey]

Hammerdown, you're sure right about those mills being larger than they look on paper.  When I went to pick mine up, I walked to the back of the shop where they had it set up ready for me to get schooled (is that a word)and my first thought was how am I going to get the thing home.. It looked a little smaller once it was outside, but not much.. I pulled it the 1,200 miles with no trouble. Pulls good too!

Pegs  Ifin its not to much to ask... how much are you havein to pay in your part of the country for them stright beams??

[pegs1]

I pay $750 per 1000 bdft for a white pine 8x8 under  12 ft I think.

Then as the dimensions get bigger or longer the price per bdft goes up.

If I need a 10 x 10  26 ft long I think those are costing me almost $2.00 a bdft.

Plus I have to go get the lumber.  2.5 hrs one way at $2.60 a gallon for diesel.   Usually about 3 loads per house.

I think we paid about $18,000.00 in the last 4 months for timbers.

It only takes a few houses to pay for a mill at that rate.   Not to mention the free lumber that comes off before I get to the timber.

And I have better quality control over what I get.

I already get calls from people who think I have a saw because we are timber framers, so I don't see getting trees will be a problem.  And we have pretty heavy duty equipment already so I don't have to buy anything extra for loading, handling etc.

The biggest OSB manufacturer in Mn closed the plant until the price goes up again.  So there will be plenty of loggers up north looking for something to do.

I heard the logs they have sitting at the plant cost more than the OSB would be worth coming out the other end.   Thats why they stopped production. 

It just seems like a no brainer to me unless I'm missing something.