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anyone have an LT30....

Started by ducknutt, March 02, 2007, 01:46:12 PM

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ducknutt

regarding blade tension, is there a tool I can buy to know what kind of tension I'm running?

I'm guessing right now

wonder if woodmizer sells operating manuels for old sawmills?
If God is your co-pilot, You're sitting in the wrong seat

ducknutt

oh, and it's an older saw.....think about 1985 model
If God is your co-pilot, You're sitting in the wrong seat

Bibbyman

I bet they do...  Maybe Sparks will come on line and help you.

Here is a link to Wood-Mizer's Customer Gateway.  If you get regestered,  you can go in and look for parts for your specific mill and order them online.

Wood-Mizer Customer Gateway

When you're in there and select your mill, then select "Sawmill Parts", and then "Miscellaneous".  You should find all the manuals available.  At least it lists about 30 manuals for my mill.

Good luck.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

stumpy

I have an LT30, but it's a newer model with a guage on the hydraulic blade tensioner.
Woodmizer LT30, NHL785 skidsteer, IH 444 tractor

Jeff

Mine is an 85 but it must have been retro fitted as I have a gauge.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

ducknutt

If God is your co-pilot, You're sitting in the wrong seat

Tom


DWM II

How about perform the test that Tom pointed you, but during the test use a tourqe wrench to see if that is repeatable ???.
Might be a good idea to check an old blade and a new one to see if both stretch the same amount at a similar tourqe setting.
Stewardship Counts!

LT40HDD51

Quote from: Jeff B on March 02, 2007, 05:27:51 PM
Mine is an 85 but it must have been retro fitted as I have a gauge.

An 85  ;D.  You buy it new?  ;D
The name's Ian. Been a sawyer for 6 years professionally, Dad bought his first mill in '84, I was 2 years old :). Factory trained service tech. as well... Happy to help any way I can...

Jeff

Yep, it was brand new to me  ;D   I think I am the third owner.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

MartyParsons

Part # M632   operator manual cost around $ 10.00
Part # M633 LT30/40 parts manual around $ 10.00


A10136 Hydraulic Blade Tensioner Retrofit (8/89)

Replaces spring style tensioning system. Hydraulic assembly provides consistent blade tensioning and allows the operator to monitor and adjust the blade tension as necessary.
Applies to:
LT30 prior to B5.00
LT40 prior to B6.00
LT40HD prior to B7.00

Here is somthing you may do if you are using the mill often. You will know always what the blade tension is with the gauge. the cost is less than $ 300.00
If you want to keep the spring style replace the spring. The spring may be weak.  Are you having a specfic issue with cutting?
Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

LT40HDD51

Quote from: Jeff B on March 02, 2007, 09:18:08 PM
Yep, it was brand new to me ;D I think I am the third owner.

Dad bought his first mill in 84. I think his customer number is 76 or something... :D
The name's Ian. Been a sawyer for 6 years professionally, Dad bought his first mill in '84, I was 2 years old :). Factory trained service tech. as well... Happy to help any way I can...

dovetails

Quote from: ducknutt on March 02, 2007, 02:04:30 PM
oh, and it's an older saw.....think about 1985 model

look at your ser.#, the first 4 will tell you the date made, like 0484= april1984
the rest of the #'s is what # saw mill it is,  I have # 767 , making it the 767th saw mill woodmizer sold.
1984 wm lt30,ford 3000 w/frt lift,several chain saws, 1953 model 30 Vermeer stump grinder,full wood working shop, log home in the woods what more ya need?

Jeff

Mine is one of the models that have one major malfunction, if you want to call it that. It won't cut closer then 3 inches to the bed. The only real complaint I have with the old girl.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

farmerdoug

Jeff,  I guess you have what is refered to as a 'woodmizer slab mill'. ::)

Farmerdoug
Doug
Truck Farmer/Greenhouse grower
2001 LT40HDD42 Super with Command Control and AccuSet, 42 hp Kubota diesel
Fargo, MI

Tom

I wonder if that 3" limitation on the bottom cut couldn't be remedied by raising the bunks/rails and inch or two.  It would entail adding a 3/4" square of metal for a final dog but it wouldn't mess up the rest of the mill. :P

Jeff

Raising the bunks is the only way I can see. However, it will mean losing clearance on the top side. Once I get back to using the mill more, I create some removable metal "raisers" that just slide on over the top of the existing bunks.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Larry

I went for a long time using wood to temporary raise the bunks cause I could only cut to 1-3/4" from the bed.

When I added the toe boards to my bunks went ahead and raised them permanent by welding in stainless steel tubing.  Thought about using steel dowels to mount them temporary but I have more top clearance than I'll ever be able to use.


 
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

TexasTimbers

Jeff you can always lay a 2" thick board on the bunks and cut down to 1". Just make sure it's a hair smaller than your cant so that the clamps can hold it.
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

Engineer

My mill is a 1984 model LT30.  I haven't gotten around to doing anything about the blade tension, still using the old style spring tension.  I also don't care much for not being able to cut within 3" of the bed.  I've put a 2" slab down, but it's not the best way to obtain an accurate cut.  I tend to leave the 3x3 post from the center of a log, they make good firewood anyway, or legs for some heavy duty workbenches.

TexasTimbers

I used the term slab loosely. My bad. On my norwood I used the nicest ERC boards as "risers" I could cut, which stayed true and flat. If you use an accurately cut, stable board, your wood cant help but come off the mill as accurate as the machine will cut.
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

ducknutt

right now I'm just pressing the blade with my thumb making sure it's tight...as long as the cut is straight, and not waving, I leave it alone...I was just afraid that I may have been making it too tight....blades aren't breaking so I guess all is good...mine is old, but I can cut down to about 1 inch from the rails...
If God is your co-pilot, You're sitting in the wrong seat

LOGDOG

Jeff,

   I had an old LT40 like that. It was my first mill. I think mine would  cut down to 2.5" though. Been a LONG time so I could be off. But if I remember right, it wasn't that the head wasn't willing to go lower it was that the blade guide arm assembly was built in such a way that the housing nearest the outboard blade roller bearing was bulky and had a bolt/nut that hung down and wanted to snag on the bed rails. Check yours out and see if this is the case. If it is, I "think" - not going to guarantee this - but I think WoodMizer told me that I could retrofit a new "low profile" blade guide arm assembly on there and it would allow me to go down further. Maybe one of the WoodMizer guys can chime in and offer something on the subject?

LOGDOG

LT40HDD51

I cant remember how the blade guides are on those older mills, its almost as old as I am ;D. But Im sure the newer stuff can be added. Does it have the adjustment block (for the tilt of the roller) with the 4 adjusting bolts holding the shaft? If so the new one should slip right in. If not, the weldment could be had from WM and welded on in the right place. Weve done this on lots of mills, and not just orange ones either  ;). If the square hole is badly worn in the front of the block it may need to be cut off and a new one welded on anyway, this can make it too sloppy to adjust properly. The new stuff is heavier duty, too, and the brand new ones are using a bigger bolt for the downpressure adjustment, Ive seen the 3/8 studs break off with a bit of abuse...
The name's Ian. Been a sawyer for 6 years professionally, Dad bought his first mill in '84, I was 2 years old :). Factory trained service tech. as well... Happy to help any way I can...

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