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The Frame I'm Workin' on -- New Member Introduction

Started by mudburn, February 26, 2007, 11:13:36 PM

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Raphael

Quote from: mudburn on March 20, 2007, 11:25:50 PM
Someone asked about floor plan and renders. I don't have those readily available. The program I've used for floor plans doesn't export images very well. If I can make it happen, I'll share these with you.

  If you've got decent image editing software (Photoshop, Paint Shop Pro, or the like) you can take a screen capture (PC) or screen snapshot (MAC) and then paste into a new document in your image editing software.  On a PC it's [ALT]+[PrintScreen] to capture an image of the program in the foreground and just [PrintScreen] to capture the whole desktop.  Depending on how your printer is installed it may simultaniously send the image to the printer so you may want it powered down to save the ink.
  It's essentially the same on a MAC but I can't remember if you use the apple key or the command key to constrain it to just the client in the foreground.  Either way you'll want to crop out the client borders and headers before resizing to FF dimensions.
... he was middle aged,
and the truth hit him like a man with no parachute.
--Godley & Creme

Stihl 066, MS 362 C-M & 24+ feet of Logosol M7 mill

johnjbc

I addition to what  Raphael said if you are running XP the paint program in Accessories has the ability to save a file in jpeg format. You couldn't do it with Win98 but don't know about millennium  or W2k.
Just open Paint and paste in the screen Image. Do a :
File
Save As
Change the Save as type to JPEG and save the file.
Then you can use XCAT to size the file to forum standards
LT40HDG24, Case VAC, Kubota L48, Case 580B, Cat 977H, Bobcat 773

mudburn

Thanks, guys! I didn't know about doing a screen capture with Alt-PrintScreen. That's cool!

Okay, I can show you my floorplan now. Here's the first floor:




The frame is not represented in this image. So, you have to imagine where the posts are (at the corners, on the line from the door on the left to the wall on the right, and on 12' centers from left to right). We've played around with the design a lot. Originally, the rooms were all going to coincide with the bents/bays. As it is now, the main bathroom at the foot of the stairs straddles bent number 2. There is a mudroom and pantry on the left side -- this will be stick framed. There will also be a porch on three sides -- the left, the front, and the right sides in the plan. The large windows are 56"x54" casement windows which I purchased from a building supply in Michigan via Ebay. Also, the exterior walls are thick, representing the 18" of the strawbales.

Here's the 2nd floor:




There will be doorways to the storage under the eaves on the front of the house, I just haven't illustrated them yet.

My floorplan program doesn't allow me to create a salt box type of roof, so rendering an outside image of the house is difficult. Maybe I can do that with SketchUp one of these days.

Darryl
Blogging my house project at Cedar Ridge Farm.

mudburn

I thought I'd give an update. Basically, I haven't gotten as far as I had hoped I would by this point. Blame it on the weather. It's been so nice that I've been doing a lot of other things that need to be done. I haven't neglected the frame altogether, though. I started on the rafters this week.

I have some renders of the house to share. I put these together using SketchUp last night and this morning. Not perfect, but they give an idea of how it'll look from the outside (I anxiously look forward to seeing the real thing).










Blogging my house project at Cedar Ridge Farm.

Griffon

Cool! For sure I would have to get Sketchup if I ever 'went pro' but does it run on a Mac?  >:(

LeeB

I beleivethere is a version for mac. It's free from google. Do a search and see.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

mudburn

I thought I'd share a bit of an update on my progress, in case anyone's interested.

I completed the rafters. Working with two different pitches made things interesting, but I just took my time and was as careful as possible. I had to put two of the 16' 6"x8"s on my mill and square them up a bit (just one face on one of them). I moved the timbers and organized them near the house site in order to begin the fit-up. I began the full frame fit-up last week. I hope to begin putting bents together before this week is out. I haven't chosen the raising date yet, but probably the end of July or beginning of August.

Inspired by others, I started a blog. You can view it at cedar-ridge-farm.blogspot.com. It takes time to keep it updated, which I haven't been really good at. And, I don't always think to take pictures when I should.

Darryl
Blogging my house project at Cedar Ridge Farm.

beenthere

We'd like some pics please. We like pics.  :)  'Specially when you do the raisin.  ;D
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

mudburn

Well, beenthere, since pics are so popular, I've added some more to my gallery. Here's you go:





These two photos show the pile of braces as it grew while working on them. Along with my able assistant, our 'homesteading intern' for this summer, we completed 38 braces in a couple days work. All of the braces are the same size.

Here are some photos of the completed beams/posts after we stacked them near the house site in preparation for beginning the fit-up process:









Then we began the fit-up:







So far, we've completed the fitting-up process. Next we move on to putting the bents together in preparation for raising the frame. I've set Labor Day Weekend as the date for the raising. It'll happen on that Sunday and Monday. I have to complete one more beam as a replacement for one that twisted. I've worked on figuring out how to best cut the dovetail tenons and floor joist ends. Here's a pic of a sample one:



I used a portable band saw to cut the tenon and the arc on the end. I plan to have one end cut on each of the floor joists and purlins before the raising day.

Okay, one more photo, of the beetle I made to help persuade the timbers to fit together:



It's made out of an end cut off of a 6x8 with a hickory shovel handle put through it with wedges to help keep it in, although it fits pretty tight without the wedges.

Okay, is that too many photos??   ;D

Darryl

Blogging my house project at Cedar Ridge Farm.

beenthere

mudburn
Those pics were 'fantastic'. Really enjoyed them, and marvel at the work you are getting done.
Thanks
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

mudburn

I've been thinking about raising the frame for some time. I've bounced ideas off of others, and I thought I would ask you all for some input.

I know a crane would simplify things in many ways, but I am pursuing other methods of raising for a variety of reasons. My idea for the raising is to use 'shear legs' (a two-legged gin pole, if you will) made from a couple cedars about 30' long each. Then, I will use one or two block-and-tackle/rope hoists. The power to pull will either be human or mechanical (I don't think I can get my cow to cooperate) -- I haven't worked this out all the way yet (I know what I would prefer, but it costs money).

I would like to raise the bents completely assembled, including the rafters. Completed, they will measure 20' 10" from bottom to top. They will be raised and will stand on concrete piers, the tallest being ~3' high. Because of the design of my bents, the weakest point is where the rafters and upper posts attach to the tie beam. So, I plan on clamping a frame to the back side of the bent prior to raising each one. It will be clamped at the lower beam, the tie beam, and the rafters. I intend this frame to hold the bent rigid and to take most of the stress of the raising. My idea is to lift on the framework, not the bent itself.

Here are some renders I did in SketchUp to help illustrate what I'm describing:







What are your thoughts? Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks!

Darryl
Blogging my house project at Cedar Ridge Farm.

jpgreen

I really like your design.  I've got a southern faced parcel that would be great for that house, looking out across the mountains..  8)
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

Don P

Hey mudburn its looking good  8)

I've been tilting up much smaller bents with a similar rig. I did rig it with a snatch block to the bent's frame to double our 6:1 winch up to 12:1. I figure we were tipping up about a ton, the top of the bent is about 20' but we grabbed it at about 14' up and had a 12' tall ginpole (runnin what I had). With 2 of us it was about all you wanted. I could have put more blocks in or wound around a smaller drum to increase the advantage. That is one honking heavy looking bent.

Your piers concern me for a tip up though. There's a fair amount of horizontal pull as it tips up and could overturn a tall slender pier. If you do tip them, think about bracing them good in the direction of pull. Myself I think your deep into call a crane territory  :)

mudburn

DonP, thanks for the response. I'm still pondering the raising. What I proposed here is one option, and I'm thinking of others. Maybe raising it all together might be asking for too much without a crane. I'm thinking about the merits of raising the frame assembled to the tie beam and then putting the rafters and posts together and raising them on top. I'm also thinking about a crane or lift assisted option, but it's less likely. I'm still interested in hearing others' thoughts, of course.

Darryl
Blogging my house project at Cedar Ridge Farm.

mudburn



Assembled the first bent today. We worked on the rafters and their associated posts yesterday. After thinking about raising the frame some more, I decided that it would be better to raise the bents assembled without the rafters. They will be assembled and raised after the main portion of each bent is raised. I will be able to use a smaller gin pole and have a safer raising this way, I believe.

Here are some more pics of our work today:









Blogging my house project at Cedar Ridge Farm.

Thomas-in-Kentucky

Holy cow!  You've been busy.  Your first bent looks awesome!

I like your idea to wait on the rafters.  Once you get two or three bents up, you could drop in some floor joists and build a deck up there to work the rafters from.

I've never used a gin pole before, but however you decide to raise it, when you get that thing vertical, kick it off umpteen different ways with some 2x4's and nails!  In other words, once you've got it up, don't let it come back down.  It looks too nice!  You should have seen all the ropes and 2x4's and tackle I had holding my first bent up.  You'll never know if you have too much bracing, but you'll know if you don't!   :o

Just a thought... you might be able to use a backhoe to raise those bents.  Whichever way you do it, keep in mind that the bents really want to fold up like tacos until they get vertical, so be sure to brace the heck out of it, or follow through with your idea of building a lifting frame.  That seems mighty clever.

Good luck.

-Thomas

mudburn

Even in the heat we've been having (100 today), I'm continuing putting things together. Just over three weeks to raising day.

We've gotten three of the four bents assembled. We finished Bent 2 today. I forgot the camera, so no pics of that. But, I had the camera when we put together Bent 3 last week. Here are some photos:





As we were fitting up the rafters for Bent 3, an error I made came to light. I kind of don't like mistakes, but they happen. My roof has two different pitches (8:12 and 3:12) that meet at the peak. Well, I miscalculated the angle for the intersection on the longer of the two rafters, leaving a gap.









Maybe more than you really want to see. I'll cut some wedges to fit in the gaps. A positive thing is that the collar tie fits nicely on both ends! There've been a couple other mistakes involving brace mortises -- one was 1.5" too close and another was 1.5" too far out. I was able to rectify those situations relatively easily.

I'll keep ya'll updated!

dp
Blogging my house project at Cedar Ridge Farm.

Don P

What happens if you adjust the rafter bottom to the angle on the post? It'll swing down a little, opening some at the top and probably come up some shade short. I dunno just a guess from someone who has done way worse things  :)

mudburn

Apart from the gap, the pitch and measurements are correct. So, if I just fill in the gap with wedges, everything else will be where it's supposed to be. Even though I wasn't happy with the error, it will work alright. And, it could've been worse, I know. If the error had been based off of a measurement on the other side of the rafter, it would've been fixable. As it is, the rafter is still the right length with the gap.

Thanks for the suggestion, though. I appreciate your help. You wanna come help raise it?  :)

dp
Blogging my house project at Cedar Ridge Farm.

jpgreen

Nice blog also by the way DP.

Hey I had  the same idea of using that portable metal bandsaw for cutting  birdmouths and stuff.  How well is that working?..  :)
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

mudburn

jpgreen,

Thanks for the compliment on my blog!

You asked about the portable band saw and how that's working. Well, I just started using it in earnest today on floor joist dovetail tenons and a curve from the tenon onto the joist itself. It's working pretty well. I don't know how I would cut the arc on the joist otherwise. It also allows me to cut the dovetail pretty well. It takes some getting used to in order to hold it level and to cut straight on the lines. I'm cutting my dovetail tenons a little smaller than the mortises and will use wedges to tighten them up (an idea I gleaned from Thomas-in-Kentucky).

It would be nice if the portable band saw would work for birdsmouths and stuff. There is one problem though -- almost all of them have a throat width of about 4", unless you want to spend a lot more money for a special one with a wider throat. I'm working with 4x6s, so the throat on the saw is fine for that. It wouldn't work on any of my 8x8s or 6x8s for sure.

We also got the last bent assembled yesterday. We hauled the 12' 4x6s up to the shop from the barn and started cutting the dovetail tenons today. We got 17 done -- only cutting the tenon on one end. There are 59 floor joists and 37 purlins to be cut in all.

Only 2.5 weeks until raising day!   8)

dp
Blogging my house project at Cedar Ridge Farm.

Don P


mudburn

Well, the first day of the raising is over, and things went quite well. I didn't know how long it would take to get the entire frame up. We didn't get the entire frame up, but we get the main part of it erected. We'll work on getting the rafters assembled and raised tomorrow.

Here are a couple of pictures. I'll have more later after tomorrow when I have time.





It's really something to see it standing there!

dp
Blogging my house project at Cedar Ridge Farm.

Don P

 8) 8) 8)
All right, that's looking good. Play safe up there, it really slows down when I leave the ground.

jpgreen

-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

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