Interior Wall Part 2

[bigshow]

I really dont want to build a wall outside of the actual bent.  I'm trying to devise a way (if it exists) to do everything within a particular bent. 

So say i have a bent that spans 30 feet - so conservatively, i figure i'd want 3 posts along that span for support.  As per my diagram, is there any conceivable way to maybe add another post close to another and work with the space between the very closely spaced posts?  see pics:






so, if posts are 8", and my 'utilities' are 6" in diameter..i have 1inch on either side to brace with.  so, could you use oh..say a ton of 1x6's to make this work?  Or, could you rabbit an edge along the sides of the posts and put in a sheet of plywood so its flush with the posts on both sides and screw it to the posts? 

Any further ideas, accusations, and calls for arms would be appreciated.  I'd love to see any further pics any of you may have regarding to dealing with your utilities....

thanks!

I dunno..i'm hell 'bent' on covering as little of the frame members as possible. 

[bigshow]

I might as well include the progress on my project so far:

I bought land..so no turning back now.

i have a frame design i'm happy with.  awhile back i posted my intial design that was horrible:


and now, i'm putting finishing touches on one that my wife and I really, really like.  just need to figure out how i'm running utils, then i'm turning over to engineer as per building inspectors wishes, and ordering wood.


above is too small to see any decent detail, full size pic available:

[Raphael]

It certainly looks like a feasible solution, I rather like it.

One concern: I'm guessing that the interrupted beam(s) normally tie the structure.
Perhaps a little hidden steel might be in order.  Where does this wall sit in your frame?

[Jeff]

This photo shows as much detail in 18k then your big photo does in almost half a megabyte and a year from now the link will not be broken which I can't guarantee for yours, that is why it is removed.  We appreciate the photos and sharing immensely but we do things here for a reason, and the reason and rules for zero tolerance for photo links to other servers are reasons that super-exceed the benefit for the individual to give greater benefit to the Forestry Forum membership as a whole. 

I'm sure you understand. 

[Don P]

I think I would lean towards the plywood idea, it would act as more of a shear panel than individual boards to help rack brace the frame. I'd lean towards nailing unless the screws are structurally rated, many are quite brittle.
One possible problem I've seen written about, if this infill is for exterior walls, is that as the posts shrink they can open a gap allowing moist interior air to pass towards the exterior. It can then condense on the posts where decay can begin. No personal experience, just another thing to think about.

[Raphael]

It occurs to me that those lines have no lateral access to that floor, tying in the vent side of the drains could be an issue.   I think your best approach is to work out your floor plan and then see what needs adaptation for plumbing, I stuck all of mine in a single 2x6 stud wall that divides a bay.

[bigshow]

Ok, i'm beginning to think this just cant work (i have few walls perpindicular to the bents planned, and right now - one duct would require me to be thinking of this route - the vent for the kitchen, that is the only place i'm hung up.  i cant figure out how to get that 6" diameter duct to conceal.  The kitchen is centered in the house)...but oh well.  I may need to flesh that out more and repost.

So, below would be an example location of the 'extra' post and examples of using plate steel bolted to frame.  Looks sketchy at best, but I'm not sure:

far away, better idea of how frame is currently designed:


and a bit closer up, i know would want a lot more beam instead of the nubbin' i have portrayed in the pic in which to attach steel plate - this was quick and dirty to say the least:

[Raider Bill]

What are you using to draw this?

[Don P]

That's googles free Sketchup. It takes an xp computer but is one nice program. It can be learned in a few hours and with the free price tag and a new computer is cheaper than most CAD programs.

[bigshow]

lets not forget Sketchup runs like a champ on OS X

[Raider Bill]

I just bought Punch! Platinum. Figure to give that a try.

[Raphael]

  I just discovered Sketchup will also run on Windows 2000 and I still have a copy of Win2kPro somewhere.  All I need to do is DL the .NET extensions, over clock some iron and install it all. :D
Something else to do when I have free time.  :

  I'm big on the nub concept.  I think I'd run threaded rods (possibly long eye bolts) through the right hand post and bury (recess) the nuts in the shoulder for the intersecting beam.  The other ends can get dadoed into the short beam and through bolted.
  Also the short post should sit under the short beam rather than having the beam come into the side of the post.