Chain sharpening...teach me.

Coon · February 10, 2007, 10:57:49 AM

One thing to also remember is also to file the teeth from the inside out. I don't know how many people I have shown this to over the years because they were doing it backwards. It was no wonder why they could never get their chains to cut even the punkiest of wood. Was beginning to get frustrated let alone P.Oed at some of these guys because everytime they needed their chains sharpened they would bring them to me to do it. Had enough of it on my own saws to do. I have only one repeat customer to sharpen for now but don't mind doing it for him as he pays me well to service his saws up. Have shown him a few tricks but he says he'd rather pay me to do it right. The other day I sharpened the chain, set the rakers, blew out the air cleaner and changed the plug and he paid me $30 and took his saw home with him when he left. Did this service job while having a good B.S. session so all was good.

PawNature · February 10, 2007, 02:30:18 PM

One thing that I have found helpful. Nothing to do with age and eyesight mind you. I bought a pair of those magnifying goggles from HF and that really helps to see the tooth much better.

jokers · February 10, 2007, 04:06:20 PM

Quote from: PawNature on February 10, 2007, 02:30:18 PM
One thing that I have found helpful. Nothing to do with age and eyesight mind you. I bought a pair of those magnifying goggles from HF and that really helps to see the tooth much better.

It has everything to do with age for me and I`m 46. Adequate lighting and magnification help me see what I`m doing which is especially crucial when I`m doing square ground. After doing enough round ground I can almost file by feel without looking. Cheap glasses from the Dollar Store or wherever in the range of +1.5-2 seem to work quite nicely.

PawNature · February 10, 2007, 06:09:49 PM

Quote from: jokers on February 10, 2007, 04:06:20 PM
Quote from: PawNature on February 10, 2007, 02:30:18 PM
One thing that I have found helpful. Nothing to do with age and eyesight mind you. I bought a pair of those magnifying goggles from HF and that really helps to see the tooth much better.
It has everything to do with age for me and I`m 46. Adequate lighting and magnification help me see what I`m doing which is especially crucial when I`m doing square ground. After doing enough round ground I can almost file by feel without looking. Cheap glasses from the Dollar Store or wherever in the range of +1.5-2 seem to work quite nicely.

Actually it has to do with age with me to.

woodhick · February 14, 2007, 06:06:46 PM

I too have tried many of the jigs on the market. Found the one that beenthere has showed. it's all I use now. It's pretty much bullet proof and cheap if it get's lost. Just make sure you buy one in the size of your chain as they are size specific. Still have a lot to learn but I can make the chips fly now!

metalspinner · March 02, 2007, 12:54:56 PM

Well, I just got in from my debut sharpening and it worked great. I buried the 20" bar into a 30" oak and it pulled itself into the cut. 8) 8) It only took about 5 minutes to sharpen it on the saw with the pferd rig. It usually took me that long just to untangle a new chain out of the box. :

Thanks everyone! 8)

beenthere · March 02, 2007, 01:00:15 PM

Good on ya, metalspinner

logbutcher · March 11, 2007, 03:21:14 PM

Quote from: metalspinner on March 02, 2007, 12:54:56 PM
Well, I just got in from my debut sharpening and it worked great. I buried the 20" bar into a 30" oak and it pulled itself into the cut. 8) 8) It only took about 5 minutes to sharpen it on the saw with the pferd rig. It usually took me that long just to untangle a new chain out of the box. :

Thanks everyone! 8)

The Pferd SharpForce tool is one of the best things since (drum roll) ---my 5C mouthpiece with Arban. :

Musician joke here.
I've got one for each of my 3 types of Stihl chain. Don't forget to reverse the flat raker file when sharpening the "other" side of the chain. And, change the round file when the teeth get down close to the witness line.
Jokers: how the H can you be "done and gone" at 46 ?? :

:D

jokers · March 11, 2007, 04:02:31 PM

Quote from: logbutcher on March 11, 2007, 03:21:14 PM
Jokers: how the H can you be "done and gone" at 46 ?? : :D

I think that it is important to fully understand what "done and gone" means before I answer :D but if we`re just talking about eyesight and achy joints and muscles, yup, I guess I am!

TexasTimbers · March 11, 2007, 04:14:00 PM

" A scattered mind from a wreckless youth . . . "

That's my excuse when my wife or kids look at me like they can't believe I forgot to put my socks on or something like that which is associated with something which is normally unforgettable. :

God may restore those who have abused their temples but sometimes He lets us keep our bad memory as a reminder. :D

beenthere · March 11, 2007, 04:52:25 PM

That is a good quote to remember........yah, like I will be able to when the right time comes.......

I posted a pic of the file jig I use (promised to do that, and upon looking back, missed it.......now if I could just remember that quote of kevjay's .. :

).

leweee · March 11, 2007, 07:18:12 PM

beenthere...reply#7,#22,#35......old age does that to us. :

beenthere · March 11, 2007, 07:29:34 PM

:-[ :-[ :-[
Don't dat beat all......... :

Da Badgers lost today, and I'm wanderin aimlessly......

metalspinner · March 11, 2007, 10:46:45 PM

Something I did notice is the the green safty chain cannot have the depth gauges filed with that pferd jig.

BTW, my second sharpening attempt has be cutting circles. :-[

:D

Quotemy 5C mouthpiece with Arban. Musician joke here

Logbutcher, I'm with ya. :D

metalspinner · March 13, 2007, 10:30:15 AM

After spending the day cutting circles with the chain I sharpened, I spent some time last night correcting the problem. I pulled out my calipers and measured all of the cutter's and came up with a .020" gap between the shortest and longest cutter's - hitting just about every measurement inbetween. :

I filed and measured each cutter until they were within .003". Hopefully this will solve the problem. This took a little time, but was still less time than driving down to the Co-Op to drop it off for sharpening.

Has anyone actually measured to find what is an acceptable differential between cutter lenghth's?

leweee · March 13, 2007, 01:35:54 PM

Remember there is at least a few other variables to circle cutting......Bar groove wear & chain driver wear have to be factored in too. One kind of influences the other. :

Through in the bur that gets raised on the side of the bar & the newbie is really perplexed " why she don cut straight" So you have Cutter length, bar groove, chain driver & bar bur to take into account when confronted with "circle cutting" ;D

metalspinner · March 13, 2007, 02:38:47 PM

Thanks, Leweee

I'll go check all of that out. The saw cut perfect until that last "sharpening," so hopefully, correcting the chain will fix the problem.

Woodsroad · April 09, 2007, 10:05:26 PM

Take a look here, too:

Sharp Advice - A Guide to Saw Chain Maintenance
http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/SharpAdvice110606.pdf

SawTroll · April 10, 2007, 08:32:26 AM

Quote from: beenthere on February 05, 2007, 10:30:17 AM....

The jig snaps over the links, and for Stihl, needs to have the notch filed wider by just a very small amount.
...

...and slightly deeper (front ones). Some advice that you also "build up" the rear ones slightly, but I have never done that.......

Btw, I have never done this for .325 chain - 3/8" only.

beenthere · April 10, 2007, 10:02:51 AM

SawTroll
Thanks for that tip. I will watch the shape of the tooth, and plan to deepen that notch.. so far, it seems to do fine, but may show as the tooth is taken down.
I do plan to switch to the smaller file, as the tooth is filed down. That likely will change the tooth shape with the roller guide.

9shooter · April 10, 2007, 11:53:24 PM

I would have to differ with some opinions here on proper sharpening technique. I use round files and was taught by a logger who had a reputation for having the sharpest chain around. He rapped my knuckles one day and showed me his technique. When sharpening any steel you end up with a burr on the cutting edge. So he files into the cutting edge so any burr is on the inside none cutting part of the tooth and also rolls the file into the top of the cutting edge at the end of each stroke. This is to also roll any burrs to the inside of the tooth. I have worked some as a cutter grinder in the auto industry so this made sense to me. The problem with a burr is that it will break off and dull the cuting edge slightly. I know this is splitting hairs somewhat, but I also know that his saws were sharp as heck. I think some of the manufacturers recomend sharpening inside out for saftey reasons. I always try to remember to wear a leather glove when sharpening because I have painted a few chains red. :-[ It's a little harder to sharpen this way at first but you get used to it. I also keep the rakers filed properly.

beenthere · April 11, 2007, 12:09:14 AM

I've asked that question of several, and have not heard it recommended to file against the point. Something about the chrome (?) surface gets chipped off, and filing against the point is not the best. But I don't disrespect someone who likes to do it that way. Just won't myself. I think the file would have to be much finer 'grit' than what I normally use.

TexasTimbers · April 11, 2007, 12:31:56 AM

beenthere, I have been filing against the point all along, thinking that was the only logical choice. My hand-filed chain is noticably sharper than when I grind it.
I have not been rolling it the way you describe 9shooter but will try that too. It does not make any sense to my little brain to file away from the point and leave a burr.
Chrome surface be Danged I will not leave a burr on my cutting point.

SawTroll · April 11, 2007, 07:35:44 AM

Quote from: beenthere on April 10, 2007, 10:02:51 AM
SawTroll
Thanks for that tip. I will watch the shape of the tooth, and plan to deepen that notch.. so far, it seems to do fine, but may show as the tooth is taken down.
I do plan to switch to the smaller file, as the tooth is filed down. That likely will change the tooth shape with the roller guide.

I think you got the point, the file size does make a difference.

Just keep an eye on the file to tooth hight, and you will be fine.....

Corley5 · April 11, 2007, 10:33:55 PM

Quote from: kevjay on April 11, 2007, 12:31:56 AM
My hand-filed chain is noticably sharper than when I grind it.

Get a pair of ABN wheels (an 1/8" and a 3/16") from Bailey's. Throw those grit wheels away. I was a hand file purist until I got my MAXX grinder and outfitted it with good wheels. I only use a grit wheel for rakers. I don't care if I ever hand file again although I've still got my Fil-O-Plate in my wallet and some files in the glove box ;) ;D