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Blades for lt70

Started by justice, February 01, 2007, 12:57:52 AM

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justice

I placed my order for an lt70 yesterday, and I am not sure what kind of blades to get for it.  This is my first bandmill which I will be using to primarly cut cross ties out of hardwoods (oak, hickory, maple). The sales rep suggested that I go with 1.50 *.055 at 9 degrees. What do you guys think? Where is the best place to get blades?
I plan to send the blades off to get them sharpened for at least a while.
Anyone know where there is a live deck for sale?

logwalker

On the blades I would stay at .050 or .045 for longer blade life. For the live deck try Brian at Sawmill Exchange. When you talk to him tell him you heard about him here and suggest he become a sponsor. He is really good at his job and he has tons of sawmill equipment listed. If you talk to him on the phone he can make recommendations. Good luck and welcome to the forum. Remember we like pictures. When you are ready to try posting ask for help and you'll get line out. Joe
Let's all be careful out there tomorrow. Lt40hd, 22' Kenworth Flatbed rollback dump, MM45B Mitsubishi trackhoe, Clark5000lb Forklift, Kubota L2850 tractor

Bibbyman

Welcome to the Forum!   8)

The sales rep gave you good advice.  The LT70 with larger wheels should get good life out of .055 x 1.5 blades.  They won't get the number or re-sharps the thiner blades will but they cut faster and straighter longer and power thrugh big knots better.  If you ordered the 62 CAT or 25 electric, you can make good use of the .055 x 1.5 blades.

9° works well with hard woods like hickory and frozen woods.  We like to run them all winter.

Start out with a big gulp of Wood-Mizer DoubleHards.  I've even seen Baker guys run them.  :)

If you're new to band milling, hickory will give you fits until you figure out the right combination of blade lube to keep the sap buildup off the blade.  If you added the LubeMizer that may help.

As for decks,  didn't you price a Wood-Mizer deck?  They come in 12' and 20' lengths and bolt right in and run right off the HD of the mill.  The LT70 sould have an extra valve just for running the deck.



Here is a picture of one hooked to an LT300.  You could have deleted your loading arms from the mill order as you'd not need them.  Get back to the sales rep.

The "Orange" WM sales guys don't often mention all the accesories that they could sale to go with the LT70 and LT40 Super because they come from the now "Green" (was gray) side of Wood-Mizer - AWMV (a.k.a - Wood-Mizer industrial)

Here is a link to their web site.

AWMV - Wood-Mizer industrial

P.S.  If  you ever come across a used WM deck for sale,  get two.  I want one.  :)

Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

WH_Conley

Welcome aboard Justice. Are you the same guy that was over to my place at Camp Dix a while back?
Bill

LT40HDD51

Wow Bibby, you know your stuff  ;) I'm new to the forum so I'm just starting to get up to speed. I agree. You bought the 70 so may as well run the thicker blades on your bigger wheels. But in my experience red oak saws really well with 10 degree blades, even frozen. Most all the oak around here is red. I usually run about 25 thou set and maybe even deepen the gullets some more to pull more sawdust. In the summer I've used 13 degree blades with good results in oak, too. Saws like butter  ;D
The name's Ian. Been a sawyer for 6 years professionally, Dad bought his first mill in '84, I was 2 years old :). Factory trained service tech. as well... Happy to help any way I can...

justice

Conley, thanks for your advice, this is a great site. And yea, I am one that came over and looked at your operation.

I appreciate the info on the blades, guys.  I need all the help I can get!

The AWMV decks are nice but they are a little more than I am looking to spend.
Although, I have found a few reasonably priced used homemade jobs on the net.  But, they all seem to be far off.

I'll try to get some pictures up when I can get to a faster connection.  This 28.8 is so slow.

Thanks again!

Bibbyman

Quote from: justice on February 01, 2007, 05:12:13 PM

The AWMV decks are nice but they are a little more than I am looking to spend.
Although, I have found a few reasonably priced used homemade jobs on the net.  But, they all seem to be far off.


Yea. Me too.  That's why I'm always on the lookout for a used WM deck.

But by the time you buy a used deck someplace, haul it in, get it cut down and setup to the level of the WM bed, figure how to  power it - more 'lectric boxes, wires, or HD pumps, etc. - being able to "plug and play" the AWMV (Wood-Mizer) deck may not sound that far off in price.  The advantage is that it runs off the mill's HD system and the valves should be right there with all the others.

The problem I've found (or think they'd be) with a deck that came out of most circle mills is - the stop and loader arms don't reach far enough to get the deck back away from the head when it's raised.  I'm sure all this could be worked around but it'd still not be as slick a system as the deck that was designed for it.

Wonder why some deck manufactures ain't cought on and built a deck just for Wood-Mizer owners?  Someone's not thinking..  ::)

I started a thread someplace asking about live decks.  Got a lot of info in it.  If I can find it I'll put a link here.

Found it...  Here it is...  Looking for suggestions on live decks
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

LeeB

Quote from: LT40HDD51 on February 01, 2007, 04:58:01 PM
Wow Bibby, you know your stuff ;) I'm new to the forum so I'm just starting to get up to speed. I agree. You bought the 70 so may as well run the thicker blades on your bigger wheels. But in my experience red oak saws really well with 10 degree blades, even frozen. Most all the oak around here is red. I usually run about 25 thou set and maybe even deepen the gullets some more to pull more sawdust. In the summer I've used 13 degree blades with good results in oak, too. Saws like butter ;D

I think Bibby has orange blood in his veins. Seems to me me he knows as much about WM products as they do. :D :D LeeB
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Bibbyman

Very flattering guys..  Unless you're putting me on..  ;D

I do know a lot of great people at Wood-Mizer and I'm always learning from them.  But the amount of knowledge I've collected still don't even come close to what those guys know. 

I'm just glad they are patient with me because there is hardly a week goes by that I'm not involved in some way with one of them.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

LT40HDD51

It's good to find someone else who knows how to adjust a set of blade guides  :D "Those bandsaws can't cut straight"  ;)
The name's Ian. Been a sawyer for 6 years professionally, Dad bought his first mill in '84, I was 2 years old :). Factory trained service tech. as well... Happy to help any way I can...

gmmills

Justice,

   Congrats on the purchase of the LT 70. You are going to really like it. 8) 8) 8) The .055's will give you good flex life. The bigger band wheels and the air bag tensioner really do add to the .055's flex life. I think you better check back with the salesman on the 1.5" x .055 x 9 deg blades. The .055's in 9 deg profile are only offered in 1.25" width. I've had quite a few conversations with their blade people about offering the 9 deg in 1.5" width.   I use .055's in 1.5" x 10 deg and 1.5" x 4 deg  profiles.  Using the 4 deg blades right now. Our logs are frozen.   
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
WM LT70D62 Remote with Accuset
Sawing since 1995

Robert Long

Welcome aboard Justice :)

Use the 9 degree blades and if you are sending them out for sharpening than go with Wood Mizer as they set standards on blades that set them above others and you are running them on a Wood Mizer anyway.

I have used these on hard woods with great success!

Robert

MartyParsons

We have most owners of the LT70 running the 1.5 X .055 10 degree and the 4 degree. Fireman Ed uses strictly the 4 degree all year around. They have a E25 LT70 and a LT300 running side by side. Nice operation. Some owners are running the 9 degree in the 1 .25 which also seems to be real sucessful. You will need to purchase the Gold guide blocks # 052355 if you are going to use the 1 . 25 width blades. No owners run the .045 or the .042 blades in our area that I am aware of. I had a customer who purchased 60 blades of the .045 and returned them and is now using the .055.  :o We attempted to advise him when he purchased the mill but  ???
Have fun with the LT70.  :)
Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

logwalker

When I recommended the .045 I was thinking the wheels were only 19". But I stand corrected. Go with the .055. If they offer 9's get them. I like 8's myself in hard unfrozen. But WM doesn't offer them. Joe
Let's all be careful out there tomorrow. Lt40hd, 22' Kenworth Flatbed rollback dump, MM45B Mitsubishi trackhoe, Clark5000lb Forklift, Kubota L2850 tractor

Bibbyman

Wood-Mizer also offers an .050 blade in the DoubleHard in 1-1/2" width and for the LT40 and LT70/300.  The part number for LT70 is B57618410S.  Part number for LT40 is B57615810S.  Both are 10°.  Anyone trying these?
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

customsawyer

I haven't tried the .50 yet Bibby.
Welcome to the forum Justice. I don't get on here as much as I would like to but I will try to help in any way I can. I have the LT 70 and pretty much all I cut is red and white oak I don't have to deal with frozen logs so all I run is the .55 x 1 1/2  blades with the 10 degree. I don't do any of my own sharpening I send everything back to WM as they have some great discounts on there blades when you start dealing with volume. I think it is any blade order over 60 blades gets a 15% discount and if you do over 100 you get the discount and they pay shipping one way so I always do over 100. I am also on there atomatic replace program so when a blade gets to where they can't sharpen it they just put in a new one.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

LT40HDD51

I had a box of 1 1/4 .055 blades we had left over from a show once. Cut like crazy on my Super but broke in a couple runs, all of em. No problems from me, they definately paid for themselves easily, and they work really well in those really ugly softwoods farmers like to cut out of pastures  :) . Lots of production over a shorter lifespan... The 1 1/2 .055s cut even better. Gimme a .055, my Cat, and a big clear softwood (drool)

.050s are somewhere in between 55s and 45s. Cut better and faster than 45s but last a bit longer than 55s. Of course, since this thread is about a LT70 with the bigger wheels, that doesn't really apply to that.... Things never get sidetracked around here, do they....  :)
The name's Ian. Been a sawyer for 6 years professionally, Dad bought his first mill in '84, I was 2 years old :). Factory trained service tech. as well... Happy to help any way I can...

Bibbyman

.045 vs. .055.  One person see a savings of a couple bucks a days running using the .045s,  the other sees another 1,000 bf of lumber at the end of the sawing day.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

justice

So it sounds like I need to start with 60, 30 of the .055, 1.50 10 degree and 30- .055, 1.50 4 degree blades.
I sure apprecate the info guys.

Here's a pic of the log deck (5.5 X 16ft) that I found for $1000. (Does it look like an ok setup?)
-- the pic that I have is too large but I will post some after I pick up the deck tues.

The deck will run off of th LT70's aux hyd system.  That is how the owner had it hooked up.  Also, utlizing the lift arms to load the log onto the mill.
However, he had some kind of a valve hooked up to 110.  I had read about some one using a toggle switch to contol this (stater valve?) on the previous live deck thread.  Can you buy one of these valves for 12 volt?  Where?

gmmills

Justice,

      My LT 70 has an extra port on the hyd manifold to plumb the hoses for the live deck. The remote station has an extra plugged, unlabeled, hole for another hyd switch lever. All I needed to do was get the few additional parts for WM and install them. Took a couple of hours. My deck is opperated solely by the LT 70's systems. No aux valves needed. 8) 8) 8)   Marty Parsons sourced all the parts I needed when I picked up my mill. Check with Marty, he will be able to give you more info on what all is needed.
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
WM LT70D62 Remote with Accuset
Sawing since 1995

Percy

Quote from: Bibbyman on February 02, 2007, 04:14:03 AM
Wood-Mizer also offers an .050 blade in the DoubleHard in 1-1/2" width and for the LT40 and LT70/300.  The part number for LT70 is B57618410S.  Part number for LT40 is B57615810S.  Both are 10°.  Anyone trying these?
I been using the WM .050X1.5 blades in 10 and 13 degree on my LT70. I tried the .055's for a while but when they break, they break stuff on the mill. One sheared all the bolts that hold the swinging blade door on the idle side, clean off, and I was going through belts faster than fuel. I have a few .055s around to impress my freinds(they cut soooooooo fast in the 13 degree config in soft wood). The .050's cut fast too and last longer. If I had better material handling downstream from the 70, Id use the 055s but right now, the mill is waiting on downstream stuff so if it cuts a tad slowewr, Im ok with it.


In Canada and Europe, WM offers a CBN type blade sharpening upgrade which I have. It is very similar to the system that WM uses at REsharp(not nearly as uptown of course). It sharpens thew 13 degree blades properly. In softwood, the 13 degreeblades feed rate is almost double that of the 10 degree. We had to relearn.....
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

LT40HDD51

Quote from: Percy on February 04, 2007, 12:52:59 PM
In softwood, the 13 degreeblades feed rate is almost double that of the 10 degree. We had to relearn.....
Its amazing, isnt it? I saw a lot of poplar here and a 13 chews it up like butter ;D
The name's Ian. Been a sawyer for 6 years professionally, Dad bought his first mill in '84, I was 2 years old :). Factory trained service tech. as well... Happy to help any way I can...

Percy

Quote from: LT40HDD51 on February 04, 2007, 01:01:49 PM
Quote from: Percy on February 04, 2007, 12:52:59 PM
In softwood, the 13 degreeblades feed rate is almost double that of the 10 degree. We had to relearn.....
Its amazing, isnt it? I saw a lot of poplar here and a 13 chews it up like butter ;D
Ya, it is amazing. Conventional thinking says less hook angle for harder woods but when I cut Birch(kinda hard), the best feed rates are with the 13's. Has anybody tried them in Oak or Maple??
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

LT40HDD51

Yeah, I've cut quite a bit of red oak with 13s. Doesnt like the real ugly stuff too much... Same as with the softwoods I guess, go easy on the knots. Cuts really good, IMO. I reach for the 13s whenever I think I can get away with using em  ;D
The name's Ian. Been a sawyer for 6 years professionally, Dad bought his first mill in '84, I was 2 years old :). Factory trained service tech. as well... Happy to help any way I can...

LT40HDD51

BTW, I mostly use 1 1/2" x .045 13 degrees and 10 degrees. Last much longer on my Super with the smaller wheels and still cut really well. But on a 70, .050 or .055 for sure  ;D
The name's Ian. Been a sawyer for 6 years professionally, Dad bought his first mill in '84, I was 2 years old :). Factory trained service tech. as well... Happy to help any way I can...

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