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continuous sill plates?

Started by son reech, January 30, 2007, 10:59:25 AM

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son reech

when building the 12x16 shed, would it be advisable to leave one of the bays open on one side, so as to be able to park a tractor, etc. ?  or does ommitting the continuous sill affect the rigidity of the frame?
mobile dimension 127

Jim_Rogers

As long as you secure the other sills to the foundation support you should be ok to leave out one sill.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

ohsoloco

This is a question I've been thinking about for some time, but never asked  :-\  I'd like to make a timber framed shed that I can park my skid loader in, and thought about doing this very thing.  Would this work if a dry laid stone foundation was used  ???

Jim_Rogers

Well it might as long as you don't hit the posts and knock them off the foundation.....
You should try and figure out some way to put something down through the center of the stones to create some sort of an anchor. Maybe you could bury a piece of rebar down through the stones into the ground some 2 to 3' and then bore a hole through the sill and set the sill down over the rebar to hold it in place.....
Just some ideas.....

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

nsmike

Combining a timberframe with a dry laid foundation, while satisfiying a code inspector is a problem. I like the look of dried laid stone and have thought of this approach it's an adaption of two techniques . The Timberframe Guild did a project in the Ozarks where a timberframe building was supported by pipes sunk into Sonotubes with the intention that a dry laid foundation being built underneath it. My approach is similar, except that the pipe, would be attached to footings beneath the frost line. Sonotubes can tilt if subjected to heavy frost heaves. The foundation would be trenched to below the frost line. After the footings were laid and the pipes in place,the trench between the posts, would then be filled with coarse fill (pea gravel, trap rock or rubble) to within about 1ft of the surface, the foundation would then be laid. The coarse fill combined with the space between foundation stones should allow any water that is is near the foundation to drain below the frost line. This should limit the danger of frost heaves. Combining proper drainage with transfering the weight of the building to the  footings should eliminate any conceerns about the strength of the foundation. Its just an idea so I would welcome comments
Mike

son reech

my current strategy is to go with concrete piers, either sonotube or block.  into these piers i will set a length of rebar, sticking up 5 or 6 inches, to act as a "drift pin."  then i'll drill a hole in the sill so that it sit on the pin.  i've done this with poles and it seemed to work pretty well.  that is, the woodshed hasn't fallen over yet.....
mobile dimension 127

PineNut

I use the same method as son reech but add a couple of straps in the concrete. These come up the side of the piers and fasten to them with lag bolts. That will provide some resistance to the wind picking the shed up.

Jayson

You might try a search on rubble trench foundations.

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