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Lap Siding Jig

Started by EZ, February 17, 2003, 02:41:26 PM

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EZ

Hi all.. Does anyone have a lap siding jig on their manual mill that they can post a picture of how it works? Or explain how it works. Thanks
EZ

Fla._Deadheader

PLEASE, Don'T NOBODY answer this post. I'm gettin tired of building stenshuns and teeth setters and whatever?? I wanna SAW !! NO MORE IDEES !! :D :D :D :D :D :D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Kevin

I think it is like so...

Tilt, make a cut.
Tilt back, make another cut.
Repeat.


JeffS

Quick and dirty way, throw a series of shakes under the cant and make a cut.  Put the shakes in the opposite direction and make another cut.

 JeffS   8)
If you can't inspire them with information or dazel them with details, baffel them with Bull S#!t.

bull

woodmizer.com    they have the pictures on their site.... ::)

Vermonter

Petersons use a stop on the vertical cut that holds the blade off vertical by an adjustable amount.  Works great, no sawing cants etc.  I know this won't help, but I couldn't help myself   :D
New homestead

Fla._Deadheader

I'm gonna saw some Brown Cedar tomorrow and I'm gonna slip a 1/2 " strip of wood under the long edge of the cant after every other cut. That "should" make 1X6's with a taper of 1/2" to 1", IF I got it figgered right. Haven't got my clamp cylinder hoses yet, so, a pry bar and a strong son should make it. Is 6" siding boards correct, or, should they be 8"??
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Tom

How you judge the width is determining what the "reveal" is to be. That is more to your liking than to a rule. I would cut mine 7 1/2 or 8 inches because I would want to overlap a couple of inches at least and that would give me 5 or 6 inches of reveal.

kinda.......maybe.......almost.......in the ball park of..... :)

Fla._Deadheader

Overlap 2 inches?? That seems a lil drastic. I was thinkin 1 inch overlap?? I never put up lap siding, so, i'm really interested in why 2 inches. I want to build a 12 X 20 shed for storing and drying some boards. The shed MAY be built with green boards. Ain't got time to let 'em dry ??
Also, do ya put the thin edge up or down or do ya switch 'em??
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Haytrader

Haytrader

Minnesota_boy

I sawed a bunch of lap siding without a jig using the method mentioned by Fla_deadheader.  I made mine 6" and used a 2" overlap when I put them up.  The large overlap covered up most of the bad aim I had with the framing nailer, but it took forever to get a wall of my garage covered with only 4" of face.  I also took more than I had to cover the second wall, so I have to make a bunch more. :(
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

Fla._Deadheader

All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Noble_Ma

Up north we hold 4" exposure on clapboards and 5-6" on shake shingles.

Tom

You need to get enough stuffed up under there to hold the board, hit with a nail and keep a blowing rain from getting up under there.  If you are real accurate sawing them then you can skinny down on the overlap.  I'm not so sure that thin edge is going to be all that "intact' all of the time.

This is why I like Board and Batten construction.  You can make it weather proof using almost any size board and if it rots, you can fix it with any size board.  Cut 5/8" or 7/8" thick stock and 1/2" or 5/8" bats and a tree will go a long way. :)

Haytrader

I agree with Tom. Not to mention verticle boards will weather longer than horizontal...........and........if you need to replace a board down the line, it is a simple task to replace versus lap siding.

If ya say what ya think on the OTHER forum, the next post might say........Be careful taking advice from someone who is not an engineer..blah..blah..blah

Oops, better be careful what I say. On the other hand, agreeing with one of the head dogs ain't all that dumb, is it?
 ;)
Haytrader

Fla._Deadheader

oooooooohh, I love to try to talk logic with engineers. I know they are well educated and really do a good job, however, Some of them REFUSE to view things in the real world. I spent over $8000.00 trying to get one to reduce a circuit board for making a portable magnetometer into a hand held. I could have sold 100 of them. He INSISTED my tech was wrong about the old schematic, and then proceeded to try to turn the mag into a metal detector. I have since learned to take advice from folks, but, to really look at it , before trying to implement it.
  This place is an excellent example. There is SO much good info here, that sometimes you want to use a certain piece of it, but, you really have to dig a little deeper for corroborating info. I'm glad that all my advice is legit.  ::) :P :D :D :D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Fla._Deadheader

DonTcha hafta run dado's and stringers to use vertical boards?? I Don't wanna use a lot of overhang on the roof, to get ample coverage for the "extended" sidewalls?? What would hold the vertical boards from cupping when wet and then dry?? if you Don'T use stringers, or whatever you carpenters call 'em??
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

ohsoloco

deadheader, the batten is used to keep the board from "popping out" if it wants to cup, and it also lets the boards shrink if you use green lumber.  The batten is nailed through a board, say, on the right side.  That is the only nail put in the board unless it is really wide, then you could stick one about halfway or so.  The left side isn't nailed...just covered up by half of the nest batten that is nailed to the next board  ???    So when the board shrinks it is able to move, and still be covered up by the batten.  Am I painting a clear picture, or does it only exist in my head   :-/

dan-l-b

Uh Ooooh, nailed both sides of my battens.  I did do it the way the pilgrams did.....I air nailed em. :D :D :D

Fla._Deadheader

Yeah guys. I understand what ya'll are tellin me. :D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)


EZ

I'm going to take a guess here & say most people wood rather have a storeage building to match there house. Which I say 75% of the houses are vinyl siding or lap siding. I could be wrong, but my house is lap siding & my garage is T-1-11, & one of these days it will be lap siding.
EZ

EZ

O I forgot to say with lap siding on a storeage building they could paint it the color of their house.  ;D
EZ

Fla._Deadheader

EZ. I'm witchu, dude.  ;D 8)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

dail_h

     Deadheader.
  You could try what we did at McMillian Blodel when we made lap siding.we cut boards,5,6,&8in, then resawed them with the feed rolls tipped.once you got it set,you could run gajillions of feet,all the same.A piece of roller tableraised a little on one side.set blade height and shove 'em through.
   I personaly like board7BATTEN.But you need to make things match.
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