Update on shop

brdmkr · December 28, 2006, 09:23:55 PM

I have had a few days off associated with Christmas, and I've been able to get a little done on the shop.

I finally have the roof decked and the felt on

I also have about half of the siding cut

I hope to cut the rest of the siding tomorrow. My plans are to shingle the shop and finish any remaining framing while the siding dries. Maybe, just maybe, I'll get all my tools moved in before summer.

It is really cool seeing taking wood from the log to the building. Just the ought I'd share.

Coon · December 28, 2006, 09:37:23 PM

Glad to hear that you are gaining progress on your project. Once you get finished you can come and start on mine. ;D I want it built so that I can move it when we move to a new place. If you want I'll even let you bring your own mill. ;)

Tim L · December 28, 2006, 09:47:16 PM

looks great !!! I'm jealous, I should be that far along .

brdmkr · December 28, 2006, 10:15:02 PM

Quote from: Coon on December 28, 2006, 09:37:23 PM
If you want I'll even let you bring your own mill. ;)

.

Why Coon, that is a very gracious offer! If you weren't so far away, I'd likely take you up on it.

scsmith42 · December 28, 2006, 10:28:27 PM

Man, that's sweet! Betcha can't wait to move in!

Coon · December 28, 2006, 10:50:33 PM

Heck it's not all that far............. as the crow flies. :D

I just have too many projects on the go right now so the garage will have to wait otherwise. I need to get Critter finished before the snow goes so as I can get some logs out to saw in the spring.

blaze83 · December 28, 2006, 11:00:20 PM

Hey Brdmkr,

that is a nice looking shop.... I counted studs and I'm guessing it is around 24' X 40'. I'm looking to move back to Ohio in the spring and building something similiar with my dad on his property. what flavor of tree are you cutting your siding out of? keep the pictures coming, they are very cool

steve

woodbowl · December 28, 2006, 11:12:15 PM

Good looking shop Mike. That little ole 6" Lucas sure makes a difference in the landscape don't it! 8)

brdmkr · December 28, 2006, 11:15:38 PM

Blaze,

The siding is SYP. It is 25' x 40' (I can't stick to common dimensions ;D)

I will say that I have a new found respect for roofers! getting that felt in place hurt my back

I have never shingled anything, so that will be an adventure in itself. Everyone tells me to 'just start at the bottom'. Then they just laugh. Must be a roofer joke ???

Olen, that mill is without a doubt the BEST tool I have ever purchased. Of course, now I am wanting a second mill..... So I can race 'em :D

ScottAR · December 29, 2006, 12:44:05 AM

Not sure what the joke is... I guess they don't want you to continue the shingles over the peak and down the other side. I heard a story about a guy that did that very thing.
Was trying to warranty shingles as his roof was leaking but only on the back side of the house. :D

At the bottom edge of the roof, ( :D) begin starter row. Starter row is shingles with tabs cut off when using 3 tab shingles.
Find the center of the length and start your pattern going up. Spread out to the edges.

Do NOT run one course all the way across and then go back. Too much walking around and fumbling with things.

Rent or buy an air gun. I rent as If I buy I will have to do more roofing.

Air gunning works best with 3 people. Nailer, Placer, and Feeder.

Nailer nails, Placer gets em lined up, and Feeder supplies shingles to Placer.

Rinse and repeat till your at the peak. Then put on the cap shingles.

Stand and admire for a minute till all your joints and muscles begin to hurt bad.

Go in and consume your favorite beverage and plop in your favorite chair.

I hate roofing... :

;D

Norm · December 29, 2006, 07:56:05 AM

Great looking shop!

Me thinks ScottAR and I have the same feelings about shingling. Only other tip I can give other than hiring it out (what I'd do) is to use architectural shingles, I hate lining up three tabs.

SwampDonkey · December 29, 2006, 08:18:01 AM

Nice building project brdmkr. You a one man show? It's going to be a dandy shop. Pretty soon, you'll want a bigger one. ;D ;)

tcsmpsi · December 29, 2006, 08:46:02 AM

Well, brdmkr, if I were close, I would come roof it for/with you. Good, simple straight gable, 13 sq. with shallow pitch would be pleasing. Long as we have good coffee. ;D

Same holds true on the paper, too. Start at the bottom. :D

I've had to tear off more than one roof that had been put on from the top. Any roofer who has been in the business for any significant time, has seen such things. Sometimes, even from other 'roofers' (that's what they hired out as, anyhow).
There's not much left to do with that, other than shake your head and make a joke of it.

When you run your bottom starter shingle (upside down), leave about an 1 1/4" overhang (I use the first joint of my index finger as the gauge). Your shingles will last longer if you keep your water lines centered over the tab. I also run a finish/starter shingle up the gable, also leaving the same shingle overhang. If you are going to be running drip edge, measure (tip of the index finger against it) from its edge. Use the 'D style' drip edge.

I never would use guns on composition shingles on my roofs, though I've used them getting other contractor's roofs lined out, or doing more complex fitting for them (that's what they had and used). Causes them unnecessary trauma and shortens their life, in my opinion.

brdmkr · December 29, 2006, 09:56:58 AM

Thanks for all the advice on the roofing. I have a roofing nailer (used this roof as an excuse to get a harbor freight special). I have been told to make sure to adjust the nailer so that it doesn't shoot the nails too deep. Tcsmpsi, I assume that is the reason you prefer not to use a nailer.

I may actually go with architectural shingles, as the kind of shingles will be left up to the wife.

tcsmpsi · December 29, 2006, 11:00:15 AM

Nail pressure is one reason. Some codes don't allow the use of guns for shingles (or at least they didn't).

If you are going to do it yourself, and pay close attention to what you're doing, then you can get by with it. Sort of. ;D Just remember, the more shock a shingle receives, the weaker it becomes.

I had to take in consideration a lot of factors. Safety, primarily. For most folks, working nailguns, means go fast. Roofs (especially steep roofs) are not to be taken lightly, and the 'go fast', hoses, and just general commotion are not conducive to primary focus. Some of the folks I've had working on roofs needed all the help they could get in remaining focused.

Of course, I always made it plain before anyone got on a roof. If they fell, they were fired before they hit the ground.

Besides, with the vast majority of folks, me running my old personal hatchet, and others nailguns, by the end of the day they would still find themselves trying to catch up. :D

I quite imagine most have gone to nailguns for roofs, and they are most probably more refined than they were then. One day, my old hatchet will be one of those, "what kind of tool is this?". ???

Heck, it took me a looong time before I would even accept a framing nailer after they came out.

And now, just this Christmas, I got me a new finish nailer. 8) Last time I had my DuoFast in for rebuild, they told me it probably wouldn't last too long because the whole thing was plain worn out. Trying my first Grizzly tool (finish nailer...kind of a trial of their tools, business, etc.)

I know it's kinda hard to 'picture', but seeing that prime roof sitting there, all ready for shingles, does give one a definitive itch. ;)

Whole different critter dried in, ain't it?

brdmkr · December 29, 2006, 09:51:37 PM

Quote from: tcsmpsi on December 29, 2006, 11:00:15 AM

Whole different critter dried in, ain't it?

Amen! I am getting antsy to get it finished.

thurlow · December 29, 2006, 11:11:02 PM

Well, I'm a little ahead of you; mine's smaller (24 x 30) and I've been working on it longer. Got traditional tin roof (29 gauge); my wife chose the red color. Siding is yellow popular board and batten. 'Bout half through with the siding; thought I had enough logs down to finish it, but now I don't know.

scsmith42 · December 30, 2006, 12:32:58 AM

Looking good, Thurlow!

Norm · December 30, 2006, 08:13:14 AM

I like your siding thurlow, can you tell me what sizes your board and batten are?

thurlow · December 30, 2006, 08:48:32 AM

Hey Mr. Norm; the boards are random width.......whatever comes off the mill; anything between 8 inch and 16 inch, although most are about 12 inch. The battens are 3 inches wide. Not sure how the pros install the stuff. This is the third building I've built using screws; single screw in the center of the wide boards into each purlin/lath/furring strip. Single LONG screw in center of each batten, etc. Usta use multiple nails, but either the boards would split or the nails would pull out, or both, allowing the boards to cup. I'm just a retired dirt farmer feeling his way in the darkness................. :-\

TexasTimbers · December 30, 2006, 08:59:07 AM

Quote from: brdmkr on December 28, 2006, 11:15:38 PM
Blaze,

The siding is SYP.

I have tons of pine logs in the yard in varying degrees of decomposing. Most not too far gone. Result of overloading my wagon and haven't been able to cut them.
Are you talking about air-dried SYP? What precautions are you taking against future rot and bugs?

Sunfield Hardwood · December 30, 2006, 09:19:46 AM

nice shop brdmkr, you'll wonder how you ever got along without it. I've built several buildings in the last few years, and heres a couple things I learned. One is I moved into my shop before I finished it on the inside, now it's full, with lots of stuff hanging on the walls and its going to be a big job to do it now, second make sure to put plenty of ventilation in roof or your shingles won't last long and it will be way hot in summer. If I had it to over again I would get all my wireing in and insulation and walls finished before I moved in. good luck, Bill

Norm · December 30, 2006, 09:44:35 AM

Thanks thurlow, I sure like the looks of it. I think the random widths the size your using turns out best.

I've never used it before but would like to try it out on a small utility shed. Thanks for the tips.

TexasTimbers · December 30, 2006, 10:08:45 AM

thurlow that's a good woay to accomodate expansion contraction.

Norm another way if you don't want exposed fasteners is to nail one side of the siding only, close enough to the edge to where the batts will hide them, bit not too close to split the board. The batts will hide at least these edge screws and the visible screws in the batts just don't show as much as those screws right in the middle of the wide boards, although there is nothing wrong with exposed screws.
Just another option is all.

scsmith42 · December 30, 2006, 10:18:40 AM

Thurlow - looks like you and I have similar tastes in siding - I built a lot of my buildings with SYP siding, random widths, 3" battens. I've used ring or spiral shank nails rather than screws, but would agree with you that screws are better - at least for the battens.

Kevin - I like your "hidden nail/screw" installation method - it's how I do my own. Around here lots of old farm buildings have SYP siding - usually not a rot problem as long as you have good overhangs and drainage. Sweet Gum also makes very good siding.

Norm, if you put the siding up green, only screw/nails the boards on one side (to be hidden under the batten). ON the other side, place a single screw in the middle of the batten to go between the boards. This allows the boards to shrink as they dry w/o splitting, as the batten holds them in place.