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Retaining the Bark on Lumber

Started by fstedy, December 26, 2006, 09:41:45 AM

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fstedy

What is the best proceedure to use for retaining the bark on cut lumber used for Rustic Furniture and Mantles?
Timberking B-20   Retired and enjoying every minute of it.
Former occupations Electrical Lineman, Airline Pilot, Owner operator of Machine Shop, Slot Machine Technician and Sawmill Operator.
I know its a long story!!!

TexasTimbers

I sure don't know that one. You might try typing in "log furniture forums" in google. You know there has to be some. If there is a forum of log furniture buildres somewhere, they are eagerly awaiting your question!

you probably won't even have to ask and wait for an answer. Search their archives.
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

Left Coast Chris

This is the same problem that bowl turners face.   Suggest looking up "Natural Edge Bowls" and you should find some info.  I started turning bowls last year and I have noticed several issues with attempting to save the bark:

1)  Bugs.   With oak you will have large borers within  a month or two if you do not take the bark off.  Powder post beetles are worse with the bark on also.

2)  The bark seems to adhere better if you cut the tree in the winter.  Spring cut wood seems to shrink worse and loose the bark worse.

3)  It helps to slow the drying also.  I would guess that a kiln may solve these problems.

4)  Wood that shrinks alot is hard to retain the bark.  The fruit woods are the worst.  Oak and Walnut is a little better.

Thats all I have learned so far.  Suggest experimenting with the exact wood you are trying to use.

Hope that helps.
Home built cantilever head, 24 HP honda mill, Case 580D, MF 135 and one Squirel Dog Jack Russel Mix -- Crickett

solodan

Quote from: farmer77 on December 27, 2006, 12:20:03 AM

2)  The bark seems to adhere better if you cut the tree in the winter.  Spring cut wood seems to shrink worse and loose the bark worse.


This is definately true out west, with soft woods. All of the rustic furniture that I leave the bark on was either cut , wind fall, or died standing in the winter. I usually try not to leave all of the bark on, but sometimes a customer asks me to do so. :-\  If it is an outside piece it is probably fine to leave all the bark attached.  To achieve a nice skip peeled look, these same trees work nice.  :)

oakiemac

I have been told that Sassafras will keep it's bark on real well. I have no experience with this, someone told me this once. :)
Mobile Demension sawmill, Bobcat 873 loader, 3 dry kilns and a long "to do" list.

mikeandike

Saturating the bark with Tung oil every 3 days or so seems to work
fir me. If I let it get dry too soon, it peels off. If it starts to let go
I can't stop it. So start Tung oiling it as soon as you cut it. Seems to
work better with hardwood.
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WMLT40HD

Ironwood

Fstedy,

Cut fresh, keep dry, dry quickly, move product. Avoid cutting in late spring. Reid
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

Duncan

I have done this twice,

Douglas Fir bark on siding
It is some crazy cali thing and I cut some samples and sent them directly to the kiln.  The bark was firmly attached at the end of the kiln cycle.

Rustic furniture, bigleaf maple
Some work for myself and my method was to soak the bark in large amounts of penetrating oil with varnish.

Both of the projects held their bark well, sadly the crazy bark on siding was not a hit at the show.
Kelly

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