Tree ID

[PineNut]

The lower story (briars and bushes) is well on the way to being shaded out on my pines at ten years. Some places that were problem areas were worked on with a  DR mower. This machine will cut the small stuff (1" diameter easy, will cut 2") but it is not as easy as the advertisements make it out to be.

[Raider Bill]

I got their DVD, they sure make it look easy chopping up almost 3 inchers. Did you would you buy one again?

[SwampDonkey]

Just walked thru some plantation red pine we planted on dad's farm. Planted in 1996. The pine are starting to nuke the raspberry. Most of the plantation is spruce on the front 2/3'rds. The pine is 1-2 meters taller than the spruce. But, man oh man, do the Dang moose give them pine a going over, breaking the tops off. Darn things.  >:( >:( I'de like to use a few other words.  >:( >:(

[PineNut]

Yes, I would buy a DR mower again. Cutting one inch is easy, 2 inch you know it is working, 3 inch you have to nibble at it but will cut. It will take the briars down but you have to be dressed for it, like gloves and tough clothes. It is not as easy as they make it look but it appears to be the best alternative (other than getting someone else to do it.)

[Tom]

That Woodsman's Pal is just the ticket.  The hook is good for briars and grape vines when you have to reach inside of a shrub to get them.  The heft is good, though you don't have the length of a machete, there are attributes to both.  Severing the vines from the ground is the best killer, then cutting them high enough that the rest is out of the way.  The tops in the trees will die.

If you run into a lot of 2 or 3 inch stuff, you might also shop for a ditch bank blade.  It is a short machete looking blade affixed to a 4 foot handle.  Most hardware stores have them.  If kept sharp they make clearing a lot easier because you don't have to bend or get so close.

Always keep a good file with you while you work too.  Put it in your pocket or in a tool kit and give your blades a stroke or two everytime you take a little breather.   .....and don't chop the ground. 

[WDH]

You might think about a contolled burn to reduce the underbrush when the pines get old enough.  If the property was harvested in 1992, then the pine trees are at least 12 years old.  If you could get one of the State Forestry foresters to come out, they could advise you on whether it can be burned safely or not.

[SwampDonkey]

I've used what tom mentioned, I think. Has a curve on the tip? I used one to clear salmon berries that were 9 feet high and red alder at a camp that was getting over grown. After I cleared it, I discovered why they were left to grow up. To cover up the scar behind the camp by someone making it their private dump.  :

[Raider Bill]

Yep got a nice hook for getting in and under the brush. Mine came with a sharpening stone but that got lost years ago. I do carry a file with it though.
When Issued by Uncle Sam, I carried it once, decided I didn't need the extra weight, somehow it got lost in my sea locker. I used it a lot when Shark fishing, even dropped it overboard once and had to scuba down to retrieve.

There sure are a bunch of logging chaps out there, Some even have "exploding" fabric for protection. I guess this is low impact like the reactive armor they have on main battle tanks now.

[Phorester]

If you're just gonna use the chaps for brushbusting and with a hand held cutting blade, I'd go for a cheaper pair.  If you're gonna use them also for chainsaw use, I'd go for a more expensive/higher quality set. I figure even the most expensive brand available is still cheaper than a trip to the hospital.

Reminds me, a friend of mine cut himself badly in the leg with a chainsaw a year or so ago.  Fortunately it wasn't too deep, no permanent damage, but bled a lot. Was by himself, had to crawl back to his truck, painfully drive himself to the emergency room (fortunately it was an automatic, didn't have to push in a clutch), truck seat and floorboard covered in blood, several weeks recovering.  He then went out and bought a pair of chaps. Better late than never, I reckon.  A few months after that, he came up one day where I was cutting up firewood to help out.  Didn't use his chaps.  He said, "oh, I forgot them.  I don't wear them much anymore anyway."  Did I mention that he was a dumb friend?

[Raider Bill]

I'll be using them for both so will get a good pair. I got a lot of work ahead of me and sure don't want a chain saw or machete accident to get in the way.

Trying to stay within the forums sponsers, Bailey's online have a set but have seen more expensive ones elsewhere. Just want to get the right ones.

[Phorester]

I'd say the right chainsaw chaps are the ones that a person actually wears.  ;D

My dumb friend I was telling about bought a nice pair of chaps, but leaving them home does no good.

I expect all the moderate to high end chaps would be not only as safe as they can be made, but also the most comfortable, which means they would have a better chance of being be worn. Trying to find the "most right" ones is probably like trying to find the "right" anything, it's easy to get bogged down in the details and not be able to make a decision. 

[Raider Bill]

Well I ordered a set of chaps, vest and head gear. I'll probley look like a city dude in the woods but I've grown to like my extremities and red body fluids.

[beenthere]

The 'city dude' in the woods is one without the protective gear, believe it or not. 

Now it will look a whole lot better when it has some dirt and debris on it from being used, and not look 'brand new'.

[Ron Scott]

It shouldn't take long to "break them in". ;)

[Phorester]

This stuff has been standard wear for loggers in my area for several years. As BEENTHERE says, it's the new or casual chainsaw user that I don't see wearing it.

[Raider Bill]

Well when this gear gets delivered you will see me in my bright orange apparral glowing in the woods.
I am a casual chainsaw user. Never wore anything but gloves. You real loggers would sure laugh at a us down here. Tree climbers wearing shorts, tank tops, sandels and a climbing belt.