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B&S 5.5 motor help

Started by bad_boards, December 15, 2006, 05:43:29 PM

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bad_boards

the B&S 5.5 hp motor thats on my hud-son 28 has a way bad oil leak
at the bottom left of the case seam , not the crank seal

the B&S support folks said it was real easy to repair, take the 6   3/8 bolts out and replace the case gasket

the only thing they were right about is there are 6 bolts

i asked what do i do if "stuff" falls out when  open the case . the fella said every thing only fits back together one way so i couldn`t mess it up

well after 2 hours trying to get the case end off the crank , the plastic cam shaft fell out as well as 2 push rods and 2 things that look like valves ( i know they are not ) these valve like things seem to hit the 2 nubbins on the cam shaft , then push the push rods,

well here is the problem

i can put the 2 valve like items back in but only if i dont put the push rods back in ,
the i am assuming thats cus the intake and exhaust valves are in the same position now cus the cam shaft is out

safe to say i am not a mechanic, is there an easy way to fit it all back together with out makin it more of a mess?


Steven A.

I cannot tell you how but the guys at this forum will be happy to do so.
http://www.perr.com/forum/
Its a small engine repair forum full of professional small engine guys.

Make sure you give the the model, spec.# and type # in your first post and they will be happy to walk you through it.
Its the second best forum on the net, right behind this one. :)

mike_van

Mikel - I'm thinking the plastic thing is the governor drive, it just slips into a hole on the case cover. The valve looking things are the pushrods, slip them back up into the holes. The camshaft [steel part with two lobes] has a mark on one face on one tooth, this has to line up with a mark on the crankshaft when they mesh.  When the cover goes back on, it will slip in if it's all lined up - don't bang it or pull it in with the bolts. Good luck -
I was the smartest 16 year old I ever knew.

bad_boards

marks, i`l check for those
the push rods seem to not go in far enough back in the holes to allow the tappits
( called b&s the valve looking thingies are called tappits) at any rate , the push rods will only go in so far and i cant get the tappit things into the same hole


the parts on the cover seemed to say in place , so , hopefully i wont have to fuss with them

if the case/cover has some dings on the seal , can i use the new gasket and blue goo

or patch up the dings 1st with like jb weld?



mike_van

If the dings are really deep, or go across the sealing area, you might want to jb weld them, just sand it off when dry so it doesn't leave a hump there.
I was the smartest 16 year old I ever knew.

sawguy21

Remove the valve cover then assemble the bottom end without the push rods. When you install the cover, being careful not to damage the seal or you will have another leak and rotate the crank as the cover goes on the last bit. Now you can install the push rods through the head. Rotate the engine so both rods are down then push down on the valves and rotate the rockers into position. Check the valve adjustment, put the cover on, and you are good to go. Good luck.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

bad_boards

would the valves have to be adjusted?  or can i just drop the push rods in and put the cover back on.


mike_van

I was the smartest 16 year old I ever knew.

bad_boards

THanks to all who offered help

i took the valve cover off then dropped the rods in from the head to the tappets

lined up the marks on the crank and the cam and works fine

no leaks

sounds a bit different , but the timing marks may have been offset by 1 or 2 teeth
i dont have the specs so just set the marks on marks


B&S is sending the how to fix it guide. if this motor has some oddball setting, its prob in the those papers

thanks all

mikel


sawguy21

There is a quick way to check cam timing. Remove the valve cover and spark plug and rotate the crankshaft until the exhaust valve is closing and the intake is opening. This is valve overlap. The piston should be at TDC, any other position means the cam timing is off.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

bad_boards

ok, seems to be running fine

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