Some timber framing questions

[scgargoyle]

I'm looking at about a million and one ways to build our next house, so of course timber framing is being considered. At the risk of being sacreligious, I would go with a kit, since time will be a real issue. I also don't have a good source for all those timbers right now. The kits I've looked at, like FirstDay, all feature horizontal pine sheathing boards over the bents. This is then moisture wrapped, and sheathed on the outside w/ insulating foam. Finally, furring strips are installed, and vertical pine siding over them. Seems simple enough, but- how do you install electrical wiring on outside walls? One photo I saw showed it being run in channels in the exterior foam insulation, but the inspector didn't like it, and made them protect it with steel to prevent being pierced by siding nails. I guess you could use surface wiring (ugly). Also, plumbing on an outside wall would be another problem but it could be avoided w/ careful planning. Am I crazy to consider one of these kits? I need a system that a couple strong guys can dry in quickly, maybe w/ the help of a truck crane to raise the bents.

[Furby]

First rule of thumb, never place any plumbing on an outside wall.

[sawguy21]

Probably not an issue in the south but you are right Furby, sure don't want to do it in Michigan. :D

[Furby]

Bad idea even in the South, they still get cold enough down there.
Always layout the house design so that all plumbing is either in inside walls or through the floor.

[scgargoyle]

I forgot to mention that this will most likely be over a walk-out basement, so it'll be easy to put the plumbing wherever. Is the method described in my original post 'normal' timber construction? If so, where do they put the outlets? Electrical codes call for outlets every so many feet, so there would have to be some on outside walls.

[Raphael]

  Wiring for downstairs is going to depend on your sill structure, where I have a 2x sill structure I'm running horizontally under the floor and punching through the rimjoist to rise vertically behind the sheet rock.  Where I have timber sills I've left a gap between the subfloor and the wall for a wire chase.  Upstairs it'll depend on what is your downstairs ceiling, My joists are fully exposed so I'm using a wire chase approach there too.

  If siding nails come anywhere near the wiring then you're really using the wrong nails. ;)

[scgargoyle]

The method of construction I saw doesn't have any sheetrock- the sheathing boards ARE the inside finish. The reason the inspector was worried about siding nails was b/c the wires were in between the foam which was applied OUTSIDE the sheathing. So there was nothing protecting those wires from siding nails. Basically, these kits are built from the inside out. So, if you drill up through the sill, you will be inside the sheathing, and thus no way to hide the wire chases. I would probably sheetrock some of the rooms, as otherwise it is too much wood everywhere, but it would be nice to have an all wood great room. Are floor outlets code legal?

[Furby]

If I were you, I'd just run the conduit and use the cheaper wire (non romax).
Consider it the price you pay for this type of building construction.
It will take a little more time, but your inspector will be happy.

One problem with floor outlets is the amount of dust and dirt that builds up in them and also makes it easier for water to get inside them.

[scgargoyle]

D'oh! Good idea, Furby. You'd think after the number of shops and garages I've wired w/ conduit, I'd a thought of that. Since I've worked in machine shops my whole life, the idea of floor outlets make me cringe (metal shavings, and all that)

[Raider Bill]

I'm planning ICF from the footer [walkout basement] to the gable tops for outside walls, then timber frame the inside to support the roof. SIPS are the front runner for roof system right now but who knows................

House is 48x40 ranch. Should I figure to run my posts from the ridgebeam down through the floor  and rest on basement slab with reinforcement? CLearspan in the basement is desired.

Ridge beam will be running the 40' length of the great room which is 24 ft wide, that's a big stick! What about 2 - 20' with a center support?

Also does anyone have info on 2x6 t&G flooring? What's a good cost for material? I looked at some cabin kits to get ideas and some used these. I've always done my floors with tile in the past. Hate carpet.

[Thehardway]

If using ICF to the gables and only TF 'ing  the inside why use a ridge post?  Use a TF truss and then you need not worry about the post or losing your freespan basement.  Walls can be half timbered under the trusses an be very convincing while still giving you all the benefits of ICF .  40' is a heck of a span.  Check out lite-deck.  Can freespan up to 40'  also great for radiant heat.

I'm doing the same type of hybrid project.