Just received a new chain ...

[ex-Engineer Wannabe]

Howdy, folks!

An old acquaintance of mine, from back home on the farm, mailed me a new chain.  It's a Stihl Rapid Super (RS) in 3/8" pitch x 0.050" gauge x 72 drive links.  From what I've learned through my research, I believe it's also called a 33 RS-72.

As I posted in a different thread earlier today, I hung the new chain up with my dull chain -- the one that came with my MS 361 -- to make a close comparison.  As I was previously unaware of what type of chain I had, I wanted to see if the new chain matched it.  Apart from the fact that my OEM chain is now missing the tips from the cutters (thanks to yours truly), it is nearly identical. 

However, the chain I just received seems to be missing a cutter link.  That is, there's a yellow plate on one side in the position where a cutter link is located on my old chain, which gives the new chain a skip chain appearance in only that one spot.  The rest of the chain looks just like my OEM Stihl 33 RS-72.  I'm assuming that the new chain was assembled for a reel of RS chain, which would probably explain this disparity.   

As it was really nice of my old neighbor to send me the chain in the first place, I don't want to offend him in any way by asking questions, so I'll ask you folks instead:

Does the missing cutter link and/or the extra drive link present a problem of any kind?

I grew up in the woods, so I've done a fair bit of felling in my day.  Nevertheless, we always made the drive to town when it came to any kind of saw work -- including sharpening.  I never liked the idea of making that drive, so, after many many years, I'm finally trying to learn about the chains and how to sharpen them in particular.  Anyway, that's why I'm very green when it comes to the specifics of saw chains.  :P

Any thoughts welcome ... 

[beenthere]

B n NOLA
Maybe count the links, but here is a pic of my 33RS72 for my MS361, trying to show the yellow link, no missing cutters, and the box it came in when new. Just for comparison.




If a cutter is missing, I doubt you will notice it (at least no 'tic' that you'll feel on each revolution  )

[ex-Engineer Wannabe]

Thanks very much, BeenThere!  ;)

As usual, you're always there with a great post.  And thanks especially for the great photo! 

Yep, your chain looks just like the chain that came on my MS 361 (after I negotiated for the longer 20" bar, that is).  As I've never assembled a saw chain before, I'm only assuming that the new one -- which does have 72 links by the way -- was taken from a long reel.  Would you agree?

As I understand it, you're also saying that the missing cutter shouldn't affect operation in any way.  That's good news.

Please keep 'em comin' ... 

[beenthere]

Mine has 36 'teeth' (half and half) with 36 links.  Are you saying you have 35 teeth and 37 links? 

[ex-Engineer Wannabe]

Yes, BeenThere.  I have 35 cutters and 37 regular/flat links.  What are your thoughts?

[beenthere]

I think I would stop by the saw shop and ask them to put the missing tooth in. But am sure it won't hurt much of anything if left out. Just would feel more 'right' if it was there, and avoid someone asking the question "Why is there a gap in that chain?"   ;D  We all know how that goes. 

[Kevin]

That's quite normal.
The chain length has to match the bar and drive sprocket, the chain is measured by drivers, the drivers are attached to the cutters so you may have two left cutters or two right cutters in sequence.

[Onthesauk]

I had a whole batch of chain that came that way.  I always thought it was like a reference point for sharpening.  Would always start at the point of the double cutters.

[Corley5]

I had a whole batch of chain that came that way.  I always thought it was like a reference point for sharpening.  Would always start at the point of the double cutters.

Works for me ;) ;D

[Dan_Shade]

if you are milling, those two links on one side will make your saw dive or climb.... just a note.  if you're bucking/felling, it's probably no big deal.

the yellow links are non-safety chain, so be aware of kickback

[beenthere]

There is only one yellow link. (on mine) 

Or are you saying the single yellow link is an indication that the entire chain is not anti-kickback?

[Dan_Shade]

my grammar kills me!

I meant yellow link(chain)s!  the yellow link is the "master link" or whatever it's called on a chainsaw chain.  The green link chains are "reduced kickback" or "safety chains".  The yellow ones are "user beware" chains.

The guy spinning the chain uses a yellow link when he joins a regular chain, and a green link when he uses safety chain.  This is with Stihl chain, i'm not sure what the other guys use.  You can also look at the boxes, the yellow link chains have yellow labels, and the green ones have green labels.

[sawguy21]

Sounds like somebody made up a chain from a roll without checking the previous cut. The pattern repeats itself every four links so there should be no odd spacing with a 72 driver chain. If the driver count is divisable by 2 but not 4, such as 70 or 66, you will get even spacing but two left or two right cutters in a row. If the count is odd like 67 the spacing at the splice will be different.

[beenthere]

Dan
Thanks for clearing me up on that. I wondered about that yellow link, and didn't know its significance.

Good to know, and this is the place to learn it. 

[SawTroll]

Sounds like somebody made up a chain from a roll without checking the previous cut. The pattern repeats itself every four links so there should be no odd spacing with a 72 driver chain. If the driver count is divisable by 2 but not 4, such as 70 or 66, you will get even spacing but two left or two right cutters in a row. If the count is odd like 67 the spacing at the splice will be different.

Yep, that's correct, and< it doesn't matter at all for anything close to normal cutting. ;D

[ex-Engineer Wannabe]

Thanks to all! 

A few of the posters here seem to indicate that an "imbalanced" chain is useable, so, in my case, a 72 DL chain containing only 35 cutters will work.

If only to learn something new, however, I'd like to know if this can be corrected?  That is, can I take the chain to a saw shop and have a cutter added?  I've used a chain breaker to adjust other types of chains, but, as I mentioned previously, I'm pretty green when it comes to saw chain maintenance.

[beenthere]

Yes, a cutter can be added to your chain.

[Ianab]

You probably could, would it be worth the time and expense, probably not  ;)

All you really have there is a small section of 'skip' chain in a loop of normal chain.

It wont make any noticable difference to the saws performance, so save your money and put it toward getting another chain. Running 2 or 3 chains and alternating them is a good idea, the chains, bar and sprocket all wear together, so you aren't putting new chains onto a worn sprocket.
When all your chains wear out, buy new ones AND a new sprocket to go with them.

Ian

[ex-Engineer Wannabe]

Thanks, BeenThere and Ian!

I've now got two 33RS-72s and two 33RSC-72s.  The RSC is currently riding the bar of my MS 361, so now it's just a matter of learning how to sharpen the 33RS-72 my saw came with.  I purchased a 3/8" Stihl Filing Kit [5605 007 1029] for that very purpose, so now I need to read up on how to use it.  :P

I guess the one dull chain I have will be the guinea pig in the lot.  ;)

Does anyone have any advice on where there might be some printed matter dealing with the use of this particular kit?

 

[beenthere]

If you go to the Stihl USAsite, click on
Information and you will find the topic

Sharp Advice - A Guide to Saw Chain Maintenance

A pdf file will help you with great pointers to file your chain, as well as to trouble shoot chain problems.

[thecfarm]

I went to shapen my chain once and it looked like one of the cutters had been broke off.No other teeth were affected.I had no idea it was like this until I went to sharpen it.Cut just fine without it.Never had it fixed,used it until it was worn out.