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Tell me about your sharpening system

Started by Dave Shepard, October 13, 2006, 12:05:31 PM

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Dave Shepard

I was wondering what everybody was using for sharpening their chisels and planes blades etc.
I am interested in getting a surface plate and using wet sandpaper on top as it would give me a large area to work on slicks or to lap plane bodies on. Does anyone hear have any experience with this system? Thanks.



Dave
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Jim_Rogers

Dave:
You should have asked me when we met.
I had sheets of plate glass with me, for sale, for doing this.

I have done this with wet/dry sandpaper and it works real good.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Dan Miller

I used to use the paper on glass method, and still do occassionally (though these days I'm more apt to use the spare tablesaw top than glass). Mostly I use this method for flattening and polishing the backs of new tools and tools I'm reconditioning.

Rough grinding is done on a belt sander or Tormek machine. Which I use depends on my mood, whether I want a flat or hollow grind, or whichever I'm closer to, not neccessarily in that order.

I use an 800 grit Japanese water stone after grinding, then move directly to an 8000 grit Norton waterstone for honing. A few strokes on the Norton stone at the start of the day keeps the chisel, cutter, etc. in shaving sharp condition.

Works for me, YMMV...

Dan

Dave Shepard

Thanks for the replies. I got the idea for a surface plate from Leonard Lees sharpening book. A 12"x12" surface plate is about $100. I have many planes that need to have the cheeks and soles lapped and I liked the idea of having plenty of room for larger tools like slicks. I also like the idea of just throwing away the sandpaper sheets which are very cheap from MSC. I wouldn't want to chew a big hole in an $80 water stone becuase of my inexperience. I have course/fine India and hard/soft Arkansas which are doing the job so far but they are small, 2x6. I have used sharp tools so I know I don't even want to waste the time to try and use anything dull, they just won't get the job done. Jack and Dave sure proved that tool selection and maintainence are a big part of the battle in timber framing.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Raphael

  I've been using 3M's micro abrasive film and the bed of my jointer for lapping and honing.
I have also have an overly large sheet of tempered glass for when I need alot of space and a couple free countertop samples I can take into the field.  Most of my grinding is done on a Tormek.
... he was middle aged,
and the truth hit him like a man with no parachute.
--Godley & Creme

Stihl 066, MS 362 C-M & 24+ feet of Logosol M7 mill

TW

I use a slowturning waterstone. The machinery is made from an old industrial washing machine and the stone is an old sandstone of the kind that the oldtimers cranked by hand.
It is like a  low budget Tormec in principle.

Then I have a home made bandgrinder. It runs a bit slower than the factory made ones so it does not heat the tool fully as much.

I flatten chisel backs and such on sandpaper on a thick piece of floatglass. If there are glass shelves in the supermarket refridgerators where you live, try to get hold of one.

Then I have a heap of old slipstones for honing. They are natural stone and quite fine. I have no idea where to get hold of such outside Finland.

Don_Papenburg

I have a small chunk of polished granite that I use for small chisels. I also have a gravestone sample  that I can use for any big jobs .  Check with your local monument guy  He may have a damaged stone or one that a mistake was made on that he will sell cheap or even give away.  they are generaly pollished as flat as a surface plate and a lot less expensive.
Frick saw mill  '58   820 John Deere power. Diamond T trucks

Max sawdust

 I use a 30" belt sander for shaping blades and large material removal.  I use the 3M Micro abrasives sheets on soapstone tiles or on plates of glass.  80 grit for removing nicks from dropping chisels on concrete ::) 40 grit then on to the finer grits.  For general touch up sharpening I use 15 micron/ 5 micron and .3 micron paper from Tools for Woodworking.  The PSA backed paper is convenient but costs more, so I bought a can of spray adhesive and just spray down the non PSA paper, or use the capillary action of water to hold the paper down.

I like the "scary" sharp system, water stones and flattening them is a pain ;)
max
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