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TimberKing 1220 vs. WoodMizer LT10/15 vs. Norwood 24

Started by 333_okh, September 26, 2006, 01:42:07 PM

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333_okh

Any ideas about how this all sizes up? I was hoping for some expert opinions.  These mills would be used on maple, redwood, Douglas-fir, walnut, and Pacific madrone.

Help????????????????

Tom

You are dealing with two very dependable companies who have plenty of experience in the manufacturing of sawmills and the need to provide customer support.

The 1220 has been a  staple of the small mills for several years.  It is a proven product. 
The LT15 is also a proven product that has been around for awhile.
You will find that Norwood's little mill falls in this catagory as well.

All three of these mills use, pretty much, the same techniques for sawing a log and are comparable in their abilities.

The LT10 was created as a light duty hobby mill and isn't even being marketed as a replacement for the LT15.


What it all boils down to is this.

You are spinning the same blade on each mill with comparable horsepower.  It's the blade that does the cutting.  All other things being equal, there is no difference in these mills.

The difference, you will find, comes in your relationship with the company.  Talk with them like you are making a life-long friend.  It's their attitude and reponse to your problems that will make the biggest selling point.   Check on prices of wear and tear parts and the availability you have of getting some of these over-the-counter in your home town.  You are really buying the company when you compare these little mills.

333_okh

what about the rigidity of the frames on these sawmills? I recently saw a sawmill that I did not see a brand name on, it was red, that used angle iron frame and guides for the saw.  It flexed as he set it up and ran the saw.  I do not want that.

Tom

With any "built-on-the-ground" mill, you will have to provide a level and stable underpinning.

Most logs are too heavy to depend on just the steel in the frame of any mill.  Larger mills have legs for supports or rest on foundations of large timbers.  These little mills are no different.

I know what you are talking about when you speak of  rigidity.  I've seen a red saw, such as you describe, that was shaking like the leaf of a  Quaking Aspen.  Yes, I wouldn't want to depend on that kind of engineering for my saw either. 

The saws that you are looking at are well engineered and those who have them are happy, almost to a fault.   You will find that their biggest complaint is that they developed into an operation that made them wish that they had purchased a saw with more log handling capabilities, not one with more steel.

tcsmpsi

I have not run any of the mills that you mention, but I have researched them in my own quest for a mill. 

Personally, I found the Norwood 24 and the LT 10 to be too small for my particular needs.  The 1220 and the LT15 were serious contenders, as well as the Baker in that size range.  In fact, the Baker with the trailer set up was pushing my buttons pretty hard.

I ended up going with a nearby (100 mi) mfr with a working trailer set up which has many similarities and some distinguishing differences to the other serious contenders on my list.  I'm as tickled as if I had good sense.  As I would have been with the others. 

Way on off down here where I am, shipping or going to pick up those others would have been a significant addition to the overall price.

Certainly, a mind-wrenching decision in any event.
\\\"In the end, it is a moral question as to whether man applies what he has learned or not.\\\" - C. Jung

Ianab

How big are your logs? The species you mention sound like West coast ones, and could be bigger than the little bandmills can handle easily.
Have you thought about a swingblade? The log isn't supported by the mill at all and doesn't need to be turned as you saw it. Might cost a little more, but a much more capable mill with the bigger logs.

Cheers

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

333_okh

I have thought of the swingblades, but I also like the ability to make some of the slabes the bandmills can do.  I have a lot of variability in the log and have used a large Alaska mill to reduce the sizes in the past to handle when I was having my wood milled by a contractor.

fencerowphil (Phil L.)

Hey 333!

There's a Peterson complete with a dedicated slabber on Sawmill Exchange
right now, located in California.  The price seems right.   A dedicated Peterson
slabber and a swinger head, too.   If I was closer, (like you are) I would be
tempted to have the very best of both worlds.

Phil L.            http://sawmillexchange.com/circular.htm#Specialized%20swing-blade
Bi-VacAtional:  Piano tuner and sawyer.  (Use one to take a vacation from the other.) Have two Stihl 090s, one Stihl 075, Echo CS8000, Echo 346,  two Homely-ite 27AVs, Peterson 10" Swingblade Winch Production Frame, 36" and 54"Alaskan mills, and a sore back.

Will_Johnson

As all have said you're looking at good mills from good companies. One thing that comes into play on big logs is size of cut throat. The 1220 does have a wider and taller cut throat than most of our competitors, including the Woodmizer. Those who know me know I am a little biased toward TimberKing  :D  but since this is a simple, objective fact about the mills I hope this doesn't seem I'm running anybody else down. Just trying to point out what I think are TK advantages. There are a lot more -- I feel! -- but this one seems to get at the heart of this conversation.

paul case

i am a little biased too
when i was comparing these same mills about 3 years ago, for about the same price you could buy an ez bordwalk(also a sponsor here) mdl 40 for about the same money. that is the same money as the basic wm lt15, tk 1220 and norwood. oh and the ez boardwalk comes ready to cut up to 16' with a 6'' chanel iron frame and comes ready to saw, no assembly required. those are good mills and i hear they have great support after the sale but it is hard for me to imagine anyone being more helpful than the folks at ez boardwalk.   36'' cut also. 
i am real happy with my mill. pc
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

Whitetail_Addict

As Tom mentioned you should look at more than just the mill itself as you would most likely be happy with any one of the three mills you're considering.  When I was shopping for a new mill last year I narrowed my choices down to the same three you mention.  I was really impressed with the construction of the Timber King.  The Wood Mizer also seemed like a very well built machine that was built "tough enough" to last.  The Norwood fell short in my opinion.  I just couldn't get the thought of Swiss cheese out of my head when looking at the frame.  So my choice was narrowed down to two.  Then I actually went and saw a few mills.  I'm really glad I did because I realized that the LT15 or TK1220 would require a whole lot of back breaking bending over unless equipped with a trailer package.  So once I looked at the additional cost of a trailer package I decided on neither the LT15 or the 1220.  I went with the LT28.  The logs and boards are all right at waist height so it doesn't stress my back as much bending over plus I got more Hp... which I'm not sure you can ever have enough of!  :D   Trailering the mill and moving from job to job is a piece of cake.  I keep the mill inside my garage and hook up to it with the truck whenever I want to go to the farm and saw or go to a customer's place and saw. 
The WoodMizer has been great.   The manual, instruction from the sales people and packet of information included is very impressive and extremely helpful. 
I recently purchased a Woodmaster 718 Planer/Molder which is built by the same company/people as the Timber King mills.  Everyone that I have spoken with at that company has been fantastic.  A tremendous amount of help and a pleasure to talk with. 

If I had it to do over again....  I'd buy a hydraulic machine and I think I'd lean towards the Timber King 1600....  I don't know... maybe I'm ready for a trade-in.   :D 
2010 WoodMizer LT28, John Deere 4520 w/ FEL, 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax Diesel, 2007 Polaris Ranger XP 700, 127 Acres of Northeast hardwoods in New York's Whitetail country

Gary_B

 All I can say is I have owned a TK1220 mill for a little over 8 years now and have been very pleased with the mill and support from Timber King, I have never seen a Woodmizer LT 10/15 so I can not say which one is better. I think it falls into the same category as cars, some people like Chevys, some like Fords or Dodges, From what I have read I have never heard any complaints of either mill

5quarter

   Excellent advice you are getting here. Any discussion such as this should not be complete without mentioning Cooks saw Mfg. I think the MP-32 is comparable to the other saws you're concidering, and they are great to work with even if you don't own one of their saws.  They too are a sponsor here and are definitely worth a look.

Chet
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

Jeff

Did anyone notice that the original question is going on half a decade old?
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

5quarter

   ummm...well... hmmm. I wonder what the OP wound up buying?
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

sandhills

Quote from: Jeff on March 09, 2011, 10:02:23 PM
Did anyone notice that the original question is going on half a decade old?

DanG it!!!  I was really enjoying this thread  :)

albirk

i am likeing it also because this is what i am going threw right now but i'm thinking of spending the extra up front on a hyd. unit insted of tradeing in a year or two (WM LT35 HD) anybody have any thought on this mill
thanks alan

paul case

i saw that mill at the farm show last fall and it looks to work well.

i think we need a forum member to buy one so we can get an ''owner review''.  pc
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

rph816

I have personally used both the WM LT15 (a friends) and then we bought a TK1220.  They are both fine mills, I preferred the rigidity of the TK1220.  Both of them left a bit to be desired on log dogging and clamping, but I would give TK a slight advantage on the clamps, and WMLT15 advantage on the stops.  Also, TK uses some kind of couter-balance on the raising/lowering which makes it much faster and easier than the LT15.  That's pretty important when you get to the last board and spend 5 minutes cranking away.  The LT15 has much better blade guides than the silly bearings that were on our 1220.  Also, I can't remember if it has a lock or not, but the outboard vertical post on the LT15 doesn't actually support the end of the head directly.  This led to a little wobble when cutting wider slabs. 

I'm probably biased, but for the same money (which I note they are) I'd go with the TK.  We've since sold the 1220 and moved up to a B-20, whole different world.

With any of the manual mills, it's a LOT of work, but they should all produce useable lumber (I know for a fact that the LT15 and 1220 certainly can).

Ryan

MartyParsons

The LT15 up down system was changed in 2004 E4 revision. On the LT15G15 the saw head moves 4 " on one rotation of the set handle. The larger engines G25 or D10 the saw head moves 2" per rotation. Each notch on the set handle moves the head 1/16".
The clamps have went through about 4 or 5 redesign changes. The redesigned clamps fill all previous models.
The frame on the LT15 is a tube frame and is tough.

The LT10 is a good value for the price. I think there is a post here on the FF from a new LT10 owner. That represents the LT10 well.

The LT15 has many options that can be added. Trailer ( Go) OP pack ( ramps, Taper wedge cant hook), Shingle and Lap sider attachment, Lathe, Resaw, Power feed, Loading assist kit and extensions for the bed. The Go Trailer even has a loading winch.

I hope this answered the question for WM.
Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

marcusthgault

Hey whats 120 days on a never-ending/never-changing topic.
I found this link when searching for info on portable sawmills btw.
Because I am attempting to decide what to buy, for retirment hobby use sawing local Conifir mostly.
I live in Co Antrim Northern Ireland.
You lucky people living Stateside are proper spoiled for sawmill choice.
All our local and European producers  concentrate on more sosphistaced expensive mills.
I have narrowed my choices down to:
(i)  a Norwood HD36 (possibly) availably locally through Logosol
(ii) A TimberKing 1220 (most probably) or just possibly a 1400 to get the expensive hydraulics.
or
The Wild Card, import direct from the states ( A Cook's LP32? is it? there basic model)
With the current exchange rate being in our favour.
Another outside option is the WoodMizer, but first their basic mills are relatively overspecced and therefore overpriced, and second, they are perhaps starting to live off their reputation and pricing accordingly.
Regards
Marcus
Theres nathing as wouldnay werk better fer been teighn asundry furst.

dboyt

The Norwood is a great all-around sawmill.  I've cut logs that maxed out the HD36 (36" diameter), as well as small specialty cuts, such as walnut crotches and large diameter short pieces.  Very solidly built machine with hydraulic options you can add to it.  Good company to deal with, too!
Norwood MX34 Pro portable sawmill, 8N Ford, Lewis Winch

marcusthgault

Thanks for the quick positive response Dboyt,
I see some of the Competitors taking a dig at the Norwood "Swiss Cheese" chassis rails.
Which surprises me, from an engineering point of view.
I did however look at the Norwood LM29 (or its forerunner) and thought the whole set-up was a tad flimsy.
It would have perhaps been steadier with a log thereon.
Nor did I particularly like their kinda roundabout way of powering the hydraulic options, with a bigger alternator driving a liesure battery/12v hyd pump, though in commercial vehicles these  12V/24V hyd pumps are very reliable when used to power tail-lifts or light tipping gear.
My other query is the effectivness of Turners pneumatic inflated band wheels, when everyone else (except the self builders) use machined steel wheels.
Because otherwise the Turner Hydraulic Mill looks good Value, but I know knowt about them.
Regards.
Marcus
Theres nathing as wouldnay werk better fer been teighn asundry furst.

dgdrls

Welcome Marcus,

All dandy mills.

I think advantage to WM  as they are there in (Ireland) to help u with parts, etc
perhaps a second hand unit?
http://www.woodmizer.ie/main/index.aspx?lc=IE
just a thought.

DGDrls



SPIKER

Quote from: marcusthgault on December 30, 2013, 11:52:30 AM
Thanks for the quick positive response Dboyt,
I see some of the Competitors taking a dig at the Norwood "Swiss Cheese" chassis rails.
Which surprises me, from an engineering point of view.
I did however look at the Norwood LM29 (or its forerunner) and thought the whole set-up was a tad flimsy.
It would have perhaps been steadier with a log thereon.
Nor did I particularly like their kinda roundabout way of powering the hydraulic options, with a bigger alternator driving a liesure battery/12v hyd pump, though in commercial vehicles these  12V/24V hyd pumps are very reliable when used to power tail-lifts or light tipping gear.
My other query is the effectivness of Turners pneumatic inflated band wheels, when everyone else (except the self builders) use machined steel wheels.
Because otherwise the Turner Hydraulic Mill looks good Value, but I know knowt about them.
Regards.
Marcus

Being that you are in European country I would look at which companies can do shipping from their end, that would probably be the Norwood as the smallest shipping pallet setup...   

I have no sentiment on any of the mills other than what would get to YOU over there as a NEW machine.   I might add that there are some good machines built down under and you can see the links on the left side of the page to see many of these mill companies.

Mark
I'm looking for help all the shrinks have given up on me :o

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