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Working with a woodlot

Started by scgargoyle, September 20, 2006, 12:24:52 PM

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scgargoyle

I'm in the process of buying 7 acres of hardwoods in SC, with the plan to move there in a couple years. It is predominantly white oak, up to maybe 18" caliper. There is little underbrush, but I need to clear a few acres for house, barn, and pasture, and I'd like to thin some of the smaller trees for health and to facilitate walking around. I would guess this wouldn't be enough timber to sell; I'm just trying to figure out the easiest and cheapest way to thin and clear. I've even thought about buying a portable mill and making some lumber out of it. How can I find out how much thinning to do? What size and type machine am I going to need to get the stumps out? What do you do w/ the stumps and slash? In SC they seem to burn it. Thanks for any info!
I hope my ship comes in before the dock rots!

Urbicide

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.  I do not claim to be an expert by any means. I have read alot of info during the last few years and I'll try to give you my 2 cents worth.  For clearing larger areas where you don't want trees and stumps you can use either a large excavator (200 series Cat or larger) or a large bulldozer (D8 series or bigger). The excavator can get the job done quicker than a dozer, and if were equipped with a hydraulic thumb it can stack the extracted trees where ever you would want them. The biggest drawback is that the excavator can not fill in holes or level ground as effectively as a dozer. A dozer has to have enough mass in order to push over trees, of course depending on their size. You need more area to manuver the dozer than you do the excavator. You may end up pushing trees into places you don't want them. The best of both worlds would be the large excavator combined with a smaller finishing dozer equipped with a six-way blade for your grading.

I would not bury the stumps. That would come back to haunt you some years down the road. I would burn them if possible.

As far thinning your woodlot I would reccommend that you get in touch with the S.C. D.N.R. Division of Forestry.  See if you can get a forester out to your property and walk the land with him. Tell him what you want to do and ask his advice. My forester here in Ohio has helped me tremendously. There is a ton of knowledge to be gained from a trained professional.

You have alot of hard physical work ahead of you. There is something very rewarding to me about doing such work. When you are struggling and sweating your brains out just pause and think what it would have been like 200 or 300 years ago. It doesn't seem so impossible then.

Good luck to you and take care.

Vince pull_smiley

scgargoyle

Thanks for the info, Vince. You know, I've always wondered how early settlers cleared land... Any recommendations on a chainsaw? I'd like to get a mid-size pro model- I think a 20" bar would be about right. I'll be cutting a lot of firewood, too, so the saw needs to be durable. I always buy pro-level power tools, as I don't like replacing 'em.
I hope my ship comes in before the dock rots!

sawguy21

A 59 cc saw such as the Husky 359 or Stihl MS361 will easily handle a 20" bar yet are lightweight. Comparable Jonsered or the increasingly popular Dolmar would also serve you well. The next step would be the Husky 365, 65 cc or the Stihl MS440, 72cc but now you have extra weight (and dollars) that you may not want. Hopefully, you have a good dealer in your area that can provide after sales support.  This is more important than brand.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Urbicide

I agree with Sawguy. I have a 359 and I have been pleased with it. Both of those models respond very well to modifying the muffler. When that is done these saws really shine. Another popular saw is the Dolmar 5100S. It is a 50cc saw that really screams. A 20" bar might be pushing it.  Saws tend to be addictive. It's hard to have just one. Next thing you know........

Take care,
Vince pull_smiley

rebocardo

Buy a Logosol chainsaw mill and use a Husky 372. I have milled with a Husky 365 using a home built mill and the max diameter for oak logs, using a 28" bar, is 16 inches. It is all the saw can handle without bogging. If you are cutting a lot of firewood, which I do, get either a Husky 365 or Husky 372 (or a Stihl in that class/weight range). The heavier saws make quicker work especially with a smaller 20" bar.

imo, If you ever decide to sell it, I think the 372 will hold its value more then the smaller saws.



Pullinchips

Here in south carolina it is called the south carolina forestry commission (SCFC).  Where are you in the state i know several of their foresters as having went to school with them.

I agree burn the stumps and residual slash and stuff you do not plan to cut into firewood and use. 

For a chain saw air on the larger size if there are two similar models from the same brand you will never be dissapointed.  You can cut a 6'' tree with your 372or stil 440 but can not easily and quicly cut that 20" tree with a smaller saw.

I'm here in Sc and am pretty familiar with much of the state because of where i have lived worked and family.  Let me know if you need any local advice.  I may be able to help!  But agin i may not!

-Nate
Resident Forester
US Army Corps of Engineers: Savannah District

Clemson Forestry Grad 2004
MFR Clemson University 2006
Stihl MS 390

scgargoyle

Thanks, Nate for offering local info. My property is about 15 miles due north of Greenville, between Traveler's Rest and Tigerville. I would really like to talk to a forester when I come up in December, and will gladly pay for his professional advice (within reason!) I usually feel bigger is better, and I always buy professional grade tools, unless it's a one-time usage. A good chainsaw (and maybe even a bandmill) is part of my investment in the property, and will save me money in the long run (plus I get new toys!). My only concern getting too big a chainsaw is having too much weight to work with. I'm a big guy, and pretty strong, but I'm also 53, so I don't want too much saw. If you know of any timber buyers, sawmills, and land-clearing outfits up that way, let me know. My options range from doing it all myself to writing a check and standing back. I plan to be very selective when I clear and thin, so I'm leery about turning someone loose unsupervised. I have looked at both bandmills and chainsaw mills, and will probably build my own, as I am a tool and die maker w/ a complete shop at my disposal, plus a mig welder.
I hope my ship comes in before the dock rots!

Pullinchips

I went to school with a guy from TR.  He works for Heritige land & Timber as a wood buyer/forester. If you think you may have enough to sell you could talk to him and take a bid, but i would also talk to the forestry commission on ideas, since that is free advice.  The will not tell you what your wood is worth though, they leave that up to a privite consultant. Let me know if your interested and how much area will be involved to cut. I'll ask cris how small a job they will do if you want me to.  It will probably need to be at least several acres for them to even move one of their small loggers in though.

-Nate
Resident Forester
US Army Corps of Engineers: Savannah District

Clemson Forestry Grad 2004
MFR Clemson University 2006
Stihl MS 390

JCam

Have you used chainsaws before? Can you sharpen your chains? Have you cleared land? I use a couple of chainsaws and a brushsaw to clear land. We own a 30hp tractor with a frontend loader and a backhoe. I use it to dig out stumps, skid and move logs. The loader has a quick attach so I can switch from bucket to forks. The forks work great to lift out small stumps. Stumps that are not in the way get cut close to the ground, then I cross cut the top in a checkerboard pattern and they rot out in a few years. I have rented a stump grinder to get rid of stumps that were in lawn areas, or where we drive. Grind them down below the surface and bury them. If you haven't used chainsaws, don't have equipment to clear land, (you need more than saws and a tractor) and don't have experience, please, consider hiring out the job. It's very easy to get hurt or killed. I have one friend with chain tracks across his kneecap and another one killed felling a tree in his yard. If you think you're up to the job, know not to drop start or cut brush with a chainsaw. Then, good luck... never work alone, always wear safety gear, have a spotter to watch your back while you cut. Keep lots of drinking water with you, a cell phone and a firstaid kit near by, watch your footing and you should be OK.
Wood-Mizer LT40G25, a tractor, and a couple of chainsaws.

bushhog

Lots of good advice here -

Regarding your question about locals who can help you in TR - If you go on up 25N about 5 miles past TR, there are a couple of outfits on the right that do fence posts and firewood.  If they can't help you, they probably know someone who can.

You may also want to consider hiring an excavator to pop those stumps out.  Stumps are tough on tractors.

Also, invest in the proper safety gear if your going to use a chain saw - chaps, hearing & eye protection will help alot.

Check out the TBN website too - lots of good info over there to help you on this subject too
www.tractorbynet.com



scgargoyle

I did quite a bit of tree work years ago. I'm not sure I want to scamber up a tree w/ a limbing saw anymore, but I'm comfortable felling and working w/ them on the ground. I already have all the safety gear. I'll either rent an excavator, or hire someone to deal w/ the stumps. I don't like leaving a lot of wood in the ground, as it's a good way to get some termite colonies established. Once they run out of wood, guess where they go? I have a friend in CT w/ a big excavator. He's pretty slow in the winter; said he'd come down and 'play' for a few weeks if I pay his expenses. I'll probably develop a plan of action on my next trip to SC this winter. I may just clear enough for a house and barn, then clear some more on my own once I live there.
I hope my ship comes in before the dock rots!

bushhog

I know a guy in Saluda, NC with an excavator, that might come down the mountain to TR.  If you are interested, PM me.

He won't rip you off either.  His machine is large enough to pluck smaller dia. trees out, stump and all, and lay them where you want it.  He did a really good job for some of my neighbors up in NC

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