Best OIL for Flooring? where's the opinions when ya need them?

[jack]

Im thinking about using this product on Monterey Pine and Cypress flooring,
they claim that you can easily finish flooring.  If you get a scratch, spot etc, that you sand, reapply, buff and you have a instant match to the rest of the flooring.
Im cutting 2000 bf of flooring now and in about three months i should have the flooring ready for installation.

I was going to prefinish the flooring covering all sides,  4/4 x 4, 6, 8 t&g random length with relief in the bottom.  The material claims to breath,  micro pores. in the finish.  Any down falls with surfacing all four sides?   I posted this in the WOODW_B and have yet to have anyone respond. 
Thanks
Jack

[Max sawdust]

I read your post several times, some how I am missing the name of the product you are considering using.  Giving us the name of the product may help you get some responses.
max

[jkj]

...I am missing the name of the product you are considering using...

Don't know if I'm dreaming, but I thought I read a recent post somewhere asking about something called Hard Wax Oil, but I can't find on this forum.  Maybe that is the mystery product.

JKJ

[jack]

Yes,  Well heck,  with one brain cell working i forgot to post the name of the Product
HARD WAX OIL.......
here is the link.

http://www.wideplankhardwood.com/osms.htm

Thanks
Jack

[solodan]

Im thinking about using this product on Monterey Pine and Cypress flooring,
they claim that you can easily finish flooring.  If you get a scratch, spot etc, that you sand, reapply, buff and you have a instant match to the rest of the flooring.
Im cutting 2000 bf of flooring now and in about three months i should have the flooring ready for installation.

Just curious as to why you would want a pine floor with no scratches. ???
I have made quite a bit of blue stained ponderosa flooring and more people tend to comment about the floor the more it gets a patina. I think that that has always been the appeal of pine floors.

[Don P]

I think it boils down to 2 choices, penetrating oils or film forming finishes. The pentrating oils are easy to apply and repair but are less durable. The films offer the best protection but are harder to apply and maintain. Just to throw another curve out there, I've heard of applying a danish oil (no waxes) to pine and then a compatible varnish over that to try to make a harder finish with the penetrating oil look.

[Larry]

I use this stuff. Waterlox Original High Gloss Finish Been around for some 90 years.  Don't believe to much of the hype of it being a tung oil finish....it has a lot of varnish in it.  I've found it's easy to touch up...just never wax the floor or you will have to sand to bare wood.  If you don't like high gloss wait until it gets a little traffic or put a coat of the Original Satin on as a finish coat.  Yeap, it's expensive but you can get it cheaper at some of the dealers.

Straight tung or linseed oil is a poor finish for floors as it has close to zero resistance to water.

[beenthere]

Lots of ideas here, and here's another.
Just 38 years ago, when I laid my red oak flooring cut off the property, the best floor finish recommended at the time was two coats of gym floor sealer (the trades at the time were only putting on one coat). This sealer soaked in real good the first coat, and was quite presentable after the second coat. I applied a third coat because I thought it was a good idea (and looking back I think it was), and have never refinished the floors since that time. I think the floors look as great today as they did then, except for one area at the entry to the hallway that shows some signs of wear (not to the raw wood, but where some wear is noticeable).  I think the third coat of sealer added many years to the floor.  I'd do exactly the same thing again if needed. 

[Larry]

BT, you may have used the Waterlox Orginal High Gloss Finish.  Some years ago it was called the gym floor finish or something similar.  Think it was pretty much the standard for gym floors.  Lot of the flooring guys would tell ya they had there own special, secret, last forever, finish to get business but in reality it was out of the can Waterlox.

[beenthere]

That might be Larry. 
At the time, there was 'sealer' and there was 'finish' to put on over the sealer.  I used the sealer for all three, and no finish coat, per se.
I suspect it was just different formula's of the same ingredients. But sure worked well.

[iain]

I think what they are talking about is this stuff

http://uk.osmo.de/osmocms/eng/produkte/...color/einmal_lasur.php

its a nice product, snells good when you use it (no not junkie good ) and I've used a good few tins, but if you want your floor to stay "perfect" for years its not what you need,
it is extremely easy to repair, use it on all your furniture projects, the more coats the better, and finish with the Leah paste wax, or buff like mad (children are good at buffing if you let them use the floor like a rink, and give them old socks ;)) but a floor like you mention by rights should show signs of life, it should wear its marks with pride,

but as i said if you want perfection for years you need a heavy commercial product
i use Sadolin PV67

http://www.sadolin.co.uk/professional/products/timbersflooring/pv67/


as many coats as the job requires (3 are recommended) but some woods or jobs need more, i rub out the nibs after the first coat, and rub before the last coat, filter the last and use a new foam roller, and not quite so much hardener in the last, so the finish has an extra few Min's to lay flat, you need a lot of venting, or a respirator, but is is a superbly hard wearing finish, and is now standard on my kitchen work tops unless some thing else is asked for,
it also gets used where there is a lot of abuse from young children (spills, feet, fingers) you don't need to mop up
and it sands off easy (after a couple of months ) if you want to go oil and wax, when they have left home


iain

[Burlkraft]

Kent,

When we do the addition...maybe you can come out and show me what 3 coats looks like on the floors :D :D ;D ;D ;D