Woodmizer 1997 LT30 Super first impressions

[Norwiscutter]

I say first impressions because I have, in my estimate, just exceeded 50,000 mbf and feel that I have become fairly acustomed with the operation of the machine. I will, for the sake of discussion, point out what I believe to be good and bad design characteristics that are worth mentioning.  because my mill is near ten years old, I am sure that woodmizer may very well have modifed there newer mills making it possible that my likes and dislikes may very well have been addressed in some manner. That being said, I will continue...

LIKES

monorail single post design- My mill sits in one place so I can not attest to the leveling issues aquainted with portable versions that other manufactures or individuals claim effect cut accuracy, however, I can say that after initial set up, I have never had any issue with cut accuracy.  The monorail design is a major advantage because it allows better access  to cutting deck.  After cutting on a four post mill, this is the single greatest attribite in my mind of the woodmizer design.

Economy Of Space- The woodmizer is, in my mind very well thought out and very slick in apperance and function. Because my mill sits undercover, the above stated monorail design facilitates greater efficency in terms of length verse usable area.

Controls & setworks- well located and thoughtout.  Easy to get the hang off.

debarker- Acurate and easily controlable.

Head Up Down & forward and reverse


Dislikes

Band wheels- Because I am running an electric mill, I have taken to running 1 1/2 .049 Munks blades to allow greater feed rates in the soft woods that I cut.  however, with these blades, I get only three sharpenings before they start breaking due to tension.  When they do break, they tend to mangle my b-belts and foce me to make trips to napa in the middle of my day. For a mill with the horse power such as this one has, It is two bad that it doesn't have larger bandheels. For instance other mills in the similar price range are as follows, cooks mills have 26 inch wheels, Bakers 28,  and Logmaster 30. 

Blade Guards- I wish that more room had been left between the band wheels and blade guards. Running 1 1/2 blades, I am constantly scraping metal on metal when I am putting in or taking out blades. Just another 1/2 inch all the way around and I would have been a happy camper.

[Bibbyman]

I think Wood-Mizer's answer to the small wheels and difficulties getting an 1-1/2" blade on questions is ... LT70.

We've ran a few 1-1/2" wide blades on our LT40 and noted it is an awful tight fit to get one on and off.   But over the 6000 or so hours we've put on three mills I can remember only one time having to replace a V-belt because of being cut by a broken blade.   

[Norwiscutter]

I If my spending cap is 35,000 - 40,000 i can find other manufactures that have addressed this issue in this price range.  That was the reason I specifically mentioned certain mills of a similar price range for comparison reasons. Simply because a different model addresses this issue and is offered at a significantly greater price does not change the fact that the LT30/40 line could potentially benifit from larger diameter band wheels.
I have changed two B-belts due to blade breakage so far because the 1 1/2 blades are a tight fit and tend to get wedged in the guard housings when a blade breaks. However, no one should get the impression that this is a major issue as it does not seam to be a common event and has been addressed simply by keeping extra belts on hand. however, I did think it worth noting.  Two B-belts in 50,000 ft is hardly a major concern.

[Oregon_Sawyer]

I would agree that your mill needs a little more room.  I bought the LT 70.  If you think you can cut a b-belt on your mill try running the 70.  I always keep extra belts.  With more power they just get damaged faster when a blade breaks.  Just keep extra belts around.

Loren

[Percy]

Dislikes

Band wheels- Because I am running an electric mill, I have taken to running 1 1/2 .049 Munks blades to allow greater feed rates in the soft woods that I cut.  however, with these blades, I get only three sharpenings before they start breaking due to tension.  When they do break, they tend to mangle my b-belts and foce me to make trips to napa in the middle of my day. For a mill with the horse power such as this one has, It is two bad that it doesn't have larger bandheels. For instance other mills in the similar price range are as follows, cooks mills have 26 inch wheels, Bakers 28,  and Logmaster 30. 

Its too bad WM doesnt offer the CBN sharpening system in the U.S. I purchased the retro fit kit for my WM sharpener in April. I have only broken two blades (.050X1.5) on my LT70 since purchasing it.The blades just get too narrow and you have to quit using them. My blade costs have dropped dramatically since purchasing the CBN kit and it will pay for itself quickly. A fella here with a 96 LT40 has the kit as well and he runs .050 blades and breakage is near non exsistant.

If you get a chance, try WM's 13 degree blades for soft wood. Feed rates are much higher than the 10 degree blades.... ;D

[logwalker]

There is no doubt that the original design would have been far better with larger wheels. And  I to run up against the clearance issues with the 1.5" blades. But I still use them with acceptable results. But it sure hurts to throw away the broken blades when the could still be sharpened many time if they hadn't stress cracked. I have found that if you adjust your guides back for the 1.5" blades and keep the tracking back where it should be according to the book then there is enough clearance to mount the blade without hitting too many teeth. I also cut a relief groove in the guard on the guide arm to allow the blade to slip past the zirk fitting on the rollor. Helped a lot. What H.P. are you running on the electric? LW

[Norwiscutter]

I am running the 25 horse factory electric motor which I really like. plenty of power for the faster feed rates achieved in the softwoods I cut.  I have thought of going to the 13 degree blades however my sharpener is set up for 10 degree 7/8 munks and I would have to order a new cam to accomodate different blades.  However, the next time I get a good order for Pine I am going to make the change. 

[Gus]

Thanks Guys,
These are the kinds of posts that help educate and enlighten us that are still looking to get into their first mill. I for one appreciate the candor in which this post was written. Seems like a very objective review of a piece of equipment that is known intimately.

[mikeandike]

Hey norwiscutter,

I have a Onan 24 horse motor on my WM. Had it rebuilt about 40
hours ago. It just locked up......again. >:( The guy that rebuilt it
just died   :-[

Ok what I really want to know is about your electric motor. i think
I would really like to go electric this time.

Anybody ever done an Onan 24 horse to electric conversion.

anybodies comments are welcomed.

I'm pretty DANG bummed out.

[Bibbyman]

Ok what I really want to know is about your electric motor. i think
I would really like to go electric this time.

Anybody ever done an Onan 24 horse to electric conversion.

anybodies comments are welcomed.

I'm pretty DANG bummed out.

Talk to ElectricAl.  He done one.

[beenthere]

I have a Onan 24 horse motor on my WM. Had it rebuilt about 40
hours ago. It just locked up......again. >:( The guy that rebuilt it
just died   :-[

Don't ya just hate those life-time quarantees.   (but sorry to hear about the guy passing, I am)

[jpgreen]

Hey norwiscutter,

I have a Onan 24 horse motor on my WM. Had it rebuilt about 40
hours ago. It just locked up......again. >:( The guy that rebuilt it
just died   :-[

Ok what I really want to know is about your electric motor. i think
I would really like to go electric this time.

Anybody ever done an Onan 24 horse to electric conversion.

anybodies comments are welcomed.

I'm pretty DANG bummed out.

That really sucks. Onan is now a boat anchor, as there is no future support for this engine. I've still got one on my Linoln Welder, and when it's done, it'll be time for another engine swap.

If you do think you may go gas again, I gotta say the Water Cooled KawaSaki I've installed on my LT-40 looks like an awesome winner.

I'll probably be done today, and throw my first log on deck for a cut.  The thing is quiet, and sounds like a Throaty motorcycle.  Main shaft bearing is bigger than the Onan and Kohler.  Fits perfectly, cept the I've got to cut down the belt guard a few inches.

I'll post pics soon..    8)

[Norwiscutter]

I believe that ElecticAL uses a fifteen horse motor on his.  This is how they came from the plant years ago and seam to do a fine job as far as I have heard here. If you have three phase available then I would say go with the 25 horse set up from the factory but if you intend on running a rotary phase converter, then maybe a smaller motor such as a 15 or 20 would  from an economic standpoint be worth consideration.

[Bibbyman]

15 hp on a standard HD would probably be real close to the 24 Onan. 

You'd save a good little bit on fuse boxes, motor starters, cable etc. by going with a 15 over a 25 hp.  If you need a phase converter, that would be a good bit less too.

Chouse your motor carefully though.  The ones WM use on their mills are very heavy duty. I think it's called a service factor.  Motors designed for constant light loads are not as heavy duty as those meant for intermittent heavy loads.