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sawing logs

Started by ed, December 25, 2002, 12:21:58 PM

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ed

whats the best way to saw 20 in. dia. logs into 5 in. square       post so they stay straight?

Bro. Noble

This probably isn't the answer you're looking for,  but the ideal way would be to 'box the heart' into a 5 in post and saw hopefully higher value lumber out of the clearer sides.  If there is no market for the side lumber or the species is of low value,  I would saw one 5X5 boxing the heart and one more from each side.  I would stack and sticker them (with the sap side up) with lots of weight on top until they were partially dry.  You could stack the boxed hearts on top for weight as they are more apt to remain straight.

If the four 5X5's on the corners (after you square the log to 15 in) aren't too barky,  you could use those also.  If not,  you could make 1X4 or 2X4's and stickers out of that.

Welcome to the forum by the way.

Noble
milking and logging and sawing and milking

Bro. Noble

ed,

An afterthought------If there is tensionwood in the logs,  you might make four cuts boxing the heart into a 5X5.  If the four sides cup,  saw them at six inches (or whatever it takes) sawing the hump off first.  Then turn them 180 degrees and cut them to 5 in,  then 90 degrees and get one or two 5 in pieces out of the flitch.  I would still sticker them with the sap side up.

Noble
milking and logging and sawing and milking

beenthere

Ed
To saw parallel to the bark is the best way to avoid warp in the square timbers, that is assuming you are not going to take the high grade in lumber. This method will be a bit more work than conventional sawing patterns, as an attempt is made to get most of the log taper in the low quality wood in the pith center. Not sure what species you are referring to, so that may enter into the decision as well. Any more information you care to offer?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

ARKANSAWYER

ED,
  If you have a band mill saw a 15 1/4 by 15 1/4 cant then slice at 10 1/8 and then again at 5.  Roll the whole thing 90 degrees and do it again.  The only post that will stay straight is the middle one.  The others will just about have to bend.  Stacking so that the side that would have been closest to the bark up on stickers with lots of weight will help some but they will bend.  How much depends on the tree..
ARKANSAWYER
ARKANSAWYER

ed

logs are white oak about 16 feet long. mill is a band mill
with a 17 foot bed. new to terms. not sure difference between sawing parallel with bark and taper sawing. i would assume that sawing parallel requires shimming up small end of log and tapper sawing does not. is higher grade wood closer to the heartwood or sapwood? also, will ice on logs dull the blade ? thanks.

Bro. Noble

ed,

Taper sawing is blocking up or out the small end of the log so that you saw parallel with the bark.  The reason you do this is because the best wood is normally on the outside.

With the logs you have I would saw the sidelumber for grade---  Taper sawing if needed.  make a 5X5 from the centse boxing the heart-----Putting the pith in the center so that the 5X5 stays streighter.

If the log isn't clear enough for grade lumber,  saw it as I  described above or as the Arkansawyer stated.  We were saying about the same thing,  he is just more gifted with words but I wouldn't tell him that.

Noble
milking and logging and sawing and milking

Minnesota_boy

Ice won't dull your blades, but a little frozen mud sure will.  Frozen mud saws just like a stone.  Once it melts, saws fine.
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

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