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Blade choice for pine

Started by flip, July 25, 2006, 08:37:41 AM

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flip

I got the OK to start cutting a 10K/bf White pine job.  What are you using for cutting pine, I've got a bunch of Munks 7/8 pitch but not sure if that will work.  The logs will be turned into 4x6s for building hunting cabins, I'll be pulling a few 1Xs of the outside.
Thanks,

Flip
Timberking B-20, Hydraulics make me board quick

ronwood

flip,

I use the Woodmizer 10 deg blades. Works for me but I don't cut a lot of pine.

Ron
Sawing part time mostly urban logs -St. Louis/Warrenton, Mo.
LT40HG25 Woodmizer Sawmill
LX885 New Holland Skidsteer

Swede

I use Monkeys for everything, pine, spruce, oak, aspen...............
1-1/4"x0,039". 1" pitch. 10*

Works good 2-4 hrs after sharpening. I don´t force more than 7-10 kP. or (in wide cuts) to the 18 HP engine slows down.

After 4-7 shapenings (I never deal with seting) they use to break.

Swede.
Had a mobile band sawmill, All hydraulics  for logs 30\"x19´, remote control. (sold it 2009-04-13)
Monkey Blades.Sold them too)
Jonsered 535/15\". Just cut firewood now.

WH_Conley

Lenox, Matrix blades, 13 degree. I beleive they are a bimetal blade, usually only last about 1 sharpening, but when they are new they will cut probably about 4 times what a Woodmizer, Simmonds Red Streak or a Lenox Woodmaster C will out of the box. Has a good feed rate too.
Bill

Fla._Deadheader


Only thing hard about Pine is the knots. ANY sharp blade should cut Pine. We use Munks for everything, hard or softer. 7/8 pitch X .042. Set at .022 and keep the blade clean of pitch. THAT is where the trouble lies with Pine.

  Sounds like a nice whack of logs.  ;D :D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Captain

My blade choice is circular  :)  Oops, not what you were asking  ;D

Captain

jackpine

Flip

I saw a lot of white pine and use Woodmizer 7/8 10° blades with good results. Their 7/8 9° blade will do well in white pine also but will not do well in red pine or spruce.

In either case slow down for the large knots and the unusual grain at the butt swell. The knots can cause the band to dip or rise and the butt swell takes more power to saw the uneven grain.

As said above use enough lube to keep the blade clean. A sharp blade is also important for the slab cuts or the teeth can load up from not cutting the inner bark layer clean. This will cause the blade to rise in the cut.

Once you've sawn a few logs you'll find white pine easy to saw most of the time but you'll have the occasional log that will be difficult.

Bill

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