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Finishing exterior teak

Started by Daren, July 13, 2006, 10:06:45 PM

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Daren

I am not asking for myself, I don't do teak that is why I don't know the answer. My little brother lives on a boat on the Gulf of Mexico and is getting into old boat resto/repair. He was a licensed master plumber here in Illinois, a good mechanic and is an electrical wiz, a/c man.... He has taken a few side jobs doing boat small repairs, but has turned down all the wood work. There is ALOT he has turned down. He lives in a marina and is surrounded by that kinda work (Florida sun/salt water I can imagine would do damage), but passes on it because he only wants to do what he can do right. He called me for advice, I do some woodworking, but that is unfamiliar wood/exposure to me. Any suggestions ?
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

Bill

Not an expert but I've heard of such things as Marine varnish, something called Cetol, BoatUS used to have something called teak oil, and then there are the clear polyurethane products. I believe the purists go with teak oil or varnish. I think the draw backs are the oil accumulates or darkens while the varnish peels or needs to be refreshed ( probably the same for the polyurethane ) - the marine versions allegedly have sun inhibitors ( spelled they charge more ) . The advantage is that the oil can be reapplied over oil while the varnish ( and polyurethane ? ) need to be sanded for prep first. There are also caustic cleaners but the purists seem to shy away from them because it also eats through good wood ( or fiberglass ? ). I've heard alot of boaters like the Cetol product but I really don't have experience with teak in the weather/sun ( other than to watch it turn gray  ;D  ) . Some practical ( or cheap ? ) boaters will just paint it a color that matches the teaks color and forget it - kinda defeats the purpose of having that nice teak - fiberglass woulda been just as good and easier to take care of.

I'd check out a BoatUS or West Marine store or lock onto a boating site to find a person that really knows what they're talking about.

Good Luck

DanG

As pretty as it is, Teak decking isn't there just for looks.  It has excellent non-slip characteristics besides being durable.  If you varnish it, you'll lose that property.

I don't know the answer to the question, but your Bro. is in an excellent position to find out.  Boat owners are a lot like sawmill owners, in that they like to talk about their pride and joy.  All he has to do is find a boat that is maintained the way he likes to see, and ask the skipper about it.  He'll probably find out more than he ever wanted to know. :D :D
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Fla._Deadheader


  Captains Varnish. Lots of sanding and many coats to get the glass look. If the water gets under it, from lack of maintenance, ya gotta scrape it ALL off and start from scratch.

  Varnishers get upwards of $35-$50.00 per hour, BUT, that kinda price demands showing yer work before you get the job.

  Decks require scrubbing and a LIGHT coating of teak-re-nu, or just scrubbing and rinsing. Some folks like the "Golden" color look.
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   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

sprucebunny

To varnish teak trim. first clean and sand then wipe several times with paint thinner to remove surface oils. The first coat should be thinned as much as 50% to help it penetrate. Sand between coats and as FDH said, water getting behind/under varnish will lift it.

After the sealer coat and a second somewhat thinned coat, I usually run some chaulking around any edges that water might seep under, like where it's attached to the boat.

MS193, MS192 and an 026  Weeding and Thinning. Gilbert Champion sawmill

Onthesauk

Always see lots of big boats from Florida and the Caribbean in the marina at Cabo San Lucas, Mexico being painted and repaired because of that $35 to $50 per hour rate.  Apparently less expensive to send them over with a crew then to have them re-done in their home port.
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Don't attribute irritating behavior to malevolence when mere stupidity will suffice as an explanation.

Daren

$30-$50 seems cheap from what he was telling me. He ran a marina (they got in a fight about money, long story,now he is starting his own business) for couple years, he said all the skilled guys/gals that came into the marina office where making $60-$100 hr.. The lady who washes boats charges $2 foot, for example my brothers boat is 50' he washes his own, but he has watched her work next to him. He said she does a GREAT job and could have a boat like his washed in less than three hours. That is $30-$50 hrs and all she carried aboard was a bucket/soap and some rags. She worked there (at the 2 ajoining marinas) almost full time. He said she was making more than him some weeks and he was running the place. He caulked 5 windows for a owner of a big old boat yesterday, the owner accepted a bid of $1500 but the guy never showed up to do the work. My little brother (who as a plumber has caulked 1000's of tubs/sinks/toilets...) said he would do it for $500 cash. He went to work at 8:00 and was done by 2:00 and he said he really took his time, because they have alot more work.

Thanks for the responces, he has enough to keep him busy, but hates turning down work because he is not 100% sure he can warranty it forever. One messed up job that in 2 months starts looking bad isn't worth the chance .He has no exterior teak on his boat so he has never messed with it.

I think DanG gave the most logical advice for his situation, he knows all the skippers around him. I will suggest to him ask around and see if he can help one of them who knows what they are doing. Even if he doesn't get the chance to help for a few weeks/months, when he does I bet he would learn alot more helping/watching than just taking advice. He is in no big hurry, but he does want to learn.
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

Don P

I think the Cetol Bill mentioned is a Sikkens product, I believe Azco (azko?) coatings is the parent co. Its another varnish. Its always the same choices, film finish is better protection but a hassle to restore. Penetrating oils are so-so protectors and shorter lived but easy to recoat.

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