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Dovetail

Started by jeff, June 03, 2001, 06:44:43 PM

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Jeff

Anybody know where I can get detailed instuctions on dovetail jointery for 4 sided 6 by 8  cabin logs?

Ther is a website where these guys make a jig, but they want like 1500 dollars!

I need pictures and instuction.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Tom

Jeff,

I've not done this to the extent of perfection, but I built a 10x10 log cabin of 6 and 8 inch logs for a pump house some years ago, just for fun.

Roy Underhill has instructions on how to cut Dovetails and Half Dovetails  with the use of  a carpenters square or just a stick if that's all you have.  He is a purist and describes the use of hatchets, saws, etc to create thiem.

I used a samll chain saw and a homemade hewing hatchet.  It turned out really good and was a lot simpler than I had expected it to be.  The hard part about log construction is the heft of the logs.  Not only are they difficult to manage but you can get hurt real quick.

I would provide you with a picture but the termites got into it and I had to take it down.  They destroyed the building from top to bottom in 5 years to the point of collapse.  

If I could have used only heart wood from the pine I don't think I would have had so much trouble.  The hearts of the logs that had hearts, were unscathed.

Roy is from Williamsburg Va. where I think he teachs building with hand tools and is envolved with Historic Williamsburg.

He has  a public television show that is shown from time to time called "The Woodwright's Shop".

His books are published by the U of Nc press I think and can be found fairly easily in used book stores.

I found this: www.ibiblio.org/uncpress/woodwright/

Another book to have is "The Rural Living Handbook"
which was put together by "Mother Earth News".
It has plans for a "shortwood" shelter that you may find interesting.  It is a type of construction that lends itself to small cabins more than large houses but could probably be used for both. It allows the use of short 6-8 foot logs which cuts down on the lifting engineering.

I have some more books but they are more in the examples of log construction rather than how-to.  If I can catch up with my wife's cleaning and decorating so that I can find them I'll pass on some more info.

timberbeast

Though I have cut many a dovetail joint in boards,  I haven't in logs.  Underhill does know his stuff!  Also,  checking back issues of "Fine Homebuilding"  magazine could yield some results.  Local library or internet search?  It isn't as hard as it looks.  If I can cut them by hand on drawers,  you should have no problem with logs!  One tip,  if you want a really tight fit,  split the line towards the waste side.
Where the heck is my axe???

Kevin


Jeff

Yup, it sure is. I wrote them, and you have to buy a chainsaw with it. If you don't buy the saw, it's pretty much the same price
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Kevin


Jeff

Nifty Stuff. Now, How do lay out a dovetail? ;D
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Kevin

Without thinking too hard, I think you can use a scribe or dividers, the same way they match round logs that are to be fitted together.
You might try sending them an email, they probably have the answer you`re looking for.

Jeff

I did. They Dont.

Dont think a scribe is needed. I am talking about using all milled cants that are all the same size. Need to know how to lay out the dovetaill in order to get a 1 and 1/2 inch gap betwen the 6 by 8s once they are assembled.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Kevin


Kevin

Jeff, maybe you can build Ed a Web Page in exchange for a jig!

http://www.edmiller-logbuilder.com/

Jeff

That's A heck of an Idea! I might consider that.

Who's Ed?
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Tom

Jeff,

If all of your logs are to be square and the same height, then all your cuts will be identical.  Why couldn't you build your own jig?  It couldn't be too difficult.  I'll bet you could find a wood cutting blade that would fit a Port-a-Band and make a jig for it.  Then when you got through you would have a Port-a-Band.

Just continue to scribe test logs until you arrived at the correct angle and depth.

I have read posts of chainsaw mills with siding attachments that will cut a board at an angle with a thick and thin edge.  Maybe one of these would work.  It seems most anything could be done for $1,500 even if you had to hire a machine shop.

Kevin

Ed seems to have jigs available for log home construction but what he doesn`t appear to have is a web site to advertise his handy work.

Here are some consultants...
http://www.logassociation.org/directory/schools2001.html

New Jig Manual is underway! We have started working on a Jig Manual... make sure you contact us with your ideas, tools, gizmos, and jigs in this book. We are hoping to publish it in this next year!
Rewards are being considered for different categories of jigs. Imagine having a book
that you can go to and see how other builders overcame the challenges.

Send your ideas to our office at:
International Logbuilders' Association
                 PO Box 775, Lumby, British Columbia V0E 2G0 Canada
                 Phone (250) 547-8776 Fax (250) 547-8775
                 E-mail: logassoc@junction.net

                  

timberbeast

To lay your joints out,  use a miter square to mark the tail on a short piece of stock, and after cutting it,  clamp the tail to the end of another short piece,  and scribe the lines.  Use a regular square to mark the thickness of the mating logs on all four sides,  so you know how deep to cut.  You now have two "jigs",  one for the tails and one for the pins.  I don't know the exact angle to use for the tails,  but you should be able to figure them from a photo.  Don't make this into rocket science.  Once you cut a couple,  it will all be clear!
Where the heck is my axe???

timberbeast

P.S.  Grab yourself a few 2x2s and experiment first.  You'll see how it works!!!
Where the heck is my axe???

RavioliKid

I love Roy Underhill!

(I just had to add that.)

 :D
RavioliKid

Jeff

Roy Underhill has one of the few shows where the blood is real!

He's great, but sure cuts himself alot!
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

RavioliKid

He does bleed for his art!

I get out of breath trying to keep up with him. He's talking so fast that he tires me out.

 ???
RavioliKid

Don P

Jeff, see if you can find a book called "Notches of all kinds" by B.A. Mackie. He describes, well, notches of all kinds. The one we're doing now has vertical corner posts and although they are great folks I just don't think they would understand. If this is the way you are leaning wait till I can get home, got a couple of corners there with a stub tennon incorporated into the joint as a draftstop. Thats my particular peeve with a dovetail, very structural...drafty as can be.
When we got here I parked under a nice looking shade tree without much thought. Motorhome is about to get a purple paint job...any takers?

Jeff

Purple paint Job, hmm... what kinda tree...
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Don P

Got my pics back, these are of a modified dovetail. Notice the small stub mortise and tenon across the vertical area that would otherwise be a leaker. It was a nice joint.





Don P

Here's the assembled joint.




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