Rolled roofing?

[Rockn H]

I've found a source where I can buy rolled roofing for $10 a roll.  I'm needing to roof a roof that is 50' long by 30' wide.  Here's my questions.  I'm told the rolls are 33' long how much overlap should I use when starting a new roll?  How much overlap should I use on each run?  With shingles I understand how to hide the tacks.  On roll roofing do you just not worry about leaving the tacks exposed?  Will the tacks leak?  Oh yeah and I'm wondering just how cheap...uh, trifty I can be.  In other words how important is the use of tar paper?

[gary]

You want to use  tar paper . On the ends about a 6 inch overlap. The sides should have lines on them to line up for the overlap. Do not be cheap with with the tar . Sometimes I will put some between the layers of roll roofing.

[treecyclers]

As a former Roofing Contractor, there are a few considerations that must be taken into effect to give you the proper information and guidance.
What's the pitch of hte roof that this will be installed on?
What's the substrate (the roof decking)?
Who is the manufacturer of the material that you're intending to use? There are written specifications that you can get from the MFR that have illustrations to follow for best results. Most have binders that you can get for free from a rep or the dealer.
The main things to be sure of:
1 ) Use plenty of asphalt to seal EVERY seam and joint.
2) Use a 6" overlap at the end laps, and 2.5" at the side laps.
3) Offset the end laps by at least 3'  - this is easily accomplished by using the butt roll from the previous course as the starting roll for the next course.
4) Unroll each roll that you'll be installing and let it relax in the sun for at LEAST 1 hour before installing it. The rolls are rolled tightly by the manufacturer for transport, so they don't fall apart in transit. They stretch slightly because of this, and if you fail to allow them time to relax, you'll get buckles all over the place and have a very ugly roof, as well as a roof that is highly prone to premature failure.
5) Understand the fastener pattern, and follow it accurately. For example, in AZ, when installing a flat roof system over a wood deck, the nailing pattern is 9" on center at the side laps, 18" in center in two staggered rows through the center of the base sheet.
6) Make sure that you select the proper base sheet for the materials you're installing. Typically, I specified #25 fiberglass base, and for the fasteners, I spec'd a 1.25" round cap annular nail. The ideal penetration should extend 1/2" through the deck for best pull out resistance.
7) If you are unsure of ANYTHING, call the manufacturer or MFR rep, and ask questions. This does have a downside, as many reps don't know their noodle from a doorknob when it comes to installing the material, but the MFR help line usually does. You could also call a licensed contractor for guidance, too.
8) Use NEW flashings where necessary. Reusing old ones invites troubles that you really don't want to deal with a couple years down the road. Going new, you'll be much happier in the long run. Trust me. Just do it.
9) Always work with a friend or two, in case someone gets hurt, falls, or has a health issue. Keep at least 2 cell phones on hand if possible. Makes it easier to call for emergency assistance if something unfortunate happens. Better to have and not need than need and not have. Trust me. Been there....
10) Work safely, work smartly. Too many people die or get maimed every year doing roofing becuaase they're inexperienced. Use safety ropes and tie yourself off or use a barrier to prevent going over the side.

I have seen two very preventable accidents happen to close friends, becuase they weren't paying attention to what they were doing, and as a result, one will never walk again, and the other will never breathe again. The first broke his back in a 45' fall onto a concrete floor after bouncing off ductwork.
The second broke his neck falling from the eave of a home, onto a brock wall and sidewalk. That fall was 12'. He stepped on his air hose, it rolled, he lost his footing, and went over the side and onto the wall.
Sorry to share those unfortunate elements, but your safety and well being is paramount to me, and I want to be very sure that you are still around to share more of your wood stories with us for a very long time.
PM me if you'd like more information, or feel free to call me by going to my website and getting the number. I'll share what I know with you, and help you as best I can.
Be well, be safe, and be dry!
Superdave

[urbanlumberinc]

Short answer: 18" overlap, and pookie any exposed nails with Henry or some other type of roofing mastic.

[Don_Papenburg]

Every thing treecycler  said and I would add that we used to nail the top of the sheet and then  use the plastic roof cement to cover the nails and the top edge of the sheet .  We smoothed it to a line of overlap .(depends on roof pitch) Then lay the next roll into the tar and press down.  The idea was to never have exposed fastners.    Also  we would take the end of the roll and roll it backwards on a 45 degree angle . Top and bottom . 
that would help the roll forget that it was cooped up in a roll for a long time.

[Rockn H]

The answers are helpful guys.  The pitch on the roof is 4/12, it's going to be an open saw shed.  The decking will be rough cut 1x's.  I don't know the manufacturer's name only that they are located in Arkadelphia Ar. and this is their rejects.  It is the same texture and appearance as regular shingles, only in a 3' wide roll without any slits.

So, should I not have any expose nails except for the bottom course?  And even though it has a 4/12 pitch I should tar the seams or is this for flat roofs only.
Thanks and bear with me on this. :D

[treecyclers]

On a 4/12 pitch, laying the rolled roofing will be a royal PITA to keep it straight.
Shingles would be your best choice.
Easier to lay, faster to install, less prone to failure at seams, and they look better IMHO.
You'll be into the roof for about the same money as with the rolled roofing, but with half the headaches and long term problems.
The steepest I have ever installed a rolled roof system on is 2.5/12, and that was still less than ideal, but it worked. We used shorter sheets, had more overlap, and nailed the snot out of it so it wouldn't move.
Anything over 3/12 shingles are the answer, with few exceptions. Tile or metal would be good solutions too, but they're expensive, and unless you really know what you're doing (I don't), it's tough to get right.
SD

[RMay]

Rockin H that is ShipLast roofing get a torch to heat the lap . But be sure its where you want it becoase you can not tear it off .  its not roll roofing you get out of the box store . it has a 50 year warranty on it and sales for over 100 dollars a roll . ;D

[etat]

If it's roll roofing, it can be easily tore by your hand and I wouldn't recommend it even though I've seen others use it.  If it's modified bitumen, it will look like roll roofing but does not easily tear and has a type of rubberized stuff in the center.  That would be good stuff, and as RMAY said, expensive.  Modified bitumen comes in two different flavors, torch down, and self adhesive which is peel and stick.  Both come in three foot wide rolls but be careful with it if it is torch down cause that is recommended to go over a fiberglass base sheet which is flame resistant.  Uses a torch similar to a weed burning torch with propane. 

I 'thought' the torch down had been outlawed because of a couple of jake legs somewhere here and there that actually burnt down HOUSES using the stuff and not being careful.  I've used it in the past but now the only thing I personally would consider would be the peel and stick, the adhesive on that stuff is amazing and it WILL stay where you put it.  Of course, if I could get a deal on torch down for my own use I wouldn't mind going with that too but personally, on something of mine I just wouldn't settle for asphalt roll roofing.  Even at it's best I didn't like it and in the last ten years or so they changed the asphalt composition, something about the EPA is what I heard and it just doesn't hold up, the same as you can't hardly find asphalt shingles anymore without fiberglass in them.   In my experience roll roofing  will last about (at least around here anyways) ten years TOPS. 

I've got some torch down roofs that I put down probably fifteen years or so ago that are still holding and look almost the same as when I put them down.,  Now as I said, I would much prefer the peel and stick but even then when I 'do' use it it is something like maybe a flat area on a house that is only a couple of square give or take.  Anything bigger I usually use epdm rubber. 

[Rockn H]

Well now I don't know what to call it. :D  I'll have to find out I guess. :  Like I said it looks just like asphalt shingles even has the tar strip along one edge where the next course would lay.  It is normally green for some reason although I was told it comes in other colors.  I know the company also makes some with an aluminum skin that has a 50 year warranty.

I can't buy a square of shingles for the price though, so I guess my main question was with it being 3' wide and 2 1/2' of it not being over lapped.  It seems like a lot of space not to be nailed down.  I was worried about leaving exposed tacks. 

ctate, whats your take on tar paper?  I mean what purpose does it serve excactly? ???

Thanks again for helping everybody.

[treecyclers]

The underlayment serves as a buffer sheet between the roof membrane and the roof deck. It is fastened to the deck, then the roof is attached to the underlayment.
At $10 a roll, unless it's thirds, it must be rolled asphalt cap sheet.
MB (Modified Bitumen) at that price is beyond a steal. If it IS Modified, let me know where the deal is, and I'll buy everything they have and resell it here for 10X that!
So, assuming that it's capsheet, the attachment must be done one of two ways. One, hot asphalt, or two, cold lap cement. Either works, hot being the preferred method, as it tends to last longer.
Except in AZ, where MB is the preferred material, and hot loses it's pliability in about 7 years.
I still strongly suggest shingles on a 4/12, the results will be much better, less hassles in installation, and lower overall costs in the long run.
SD

[etat]

ctate, whats your take on tar paper?  I mean what purpose does it serve exactly?

Treecyclers answered your question perfectly and danged if I don't agree with everything that he said.      

New shingles do require the proper underlayment or the warranties can be voided if for some reason there was a manufacturing defect that caused a shingle failure.  I've only seen this happen twice in fifteen years but both times, once even though I did NOT roof the house.  was able to get the shingles replaced under warranty.  Lots of paperwork and documentation involved, including sending samples and pictures to the manufacturer. 

If you use asphalt rolled roofing nail it well and cover the exposed nails with a dab of tar.  It won't be pretty but anyways, thats what I'd do if I HAD to use the stuff.  As said, shingles will be lots less trouble in the long run.  I've seen wind get under the edge of rolled roofing and peel it off in huge sheets too. 

[treecyclers]

I tell you what. Can we simplify this process?
IF you have photos of the roof area in question, post them, and provide specific measurements of hte roof area, and I can write you a specification to work from.
IT's like an instruction sheet for a roof installation.
SD

[Rockn H]

treecyclers and ctate, and everybody else.  Thanks for the patience and answers. 
treecycler I can't post any pics yet of anything but the roofing material in question.  I haven't built the shed that the roof will be covering yet. ;D :DWe wrapped a buddies camp in it.  Roof and sides.  I know how we did his , but before I do mine I'd like to know the best way.   : :D  I agree that shingles would be the answer, and if this shed were going anywhere but a back corner where it want be seen... it would have tin on it. ;D  Not to mention that it would take 3 bundles of shingles to cover the same sq ft and that is $40 with tax around here. :(

[etat]

3 bundles of shingles to cover the same sq ft and that is $40 with tax around here.

HIGHWAY ROBBERY is what I say. ??? (costing me pretty close to the same thing and I buy a lot of em). 

  http://www.usace.army.mil/publications/armytm/tm5-617/chap6.pdf

 

[Rockn H]

Thanks ctate, I've always said it helps if y'all draw me a picture with crayons. :D :D :D :D :D :D