sawing a curved log for an arched walkway bridge?

timcosby · May 27, 2006, 01:16:50 AM

i think i know how i'm going to do it but any info or tricks y'all know would help.

Bibbyman · May 27, 2006, 07:23:18 AM

Welcome to the Forum!

What kind of mill are you using? There was an article in the Wood-Mizer Way some issues back about a guy using a Wood-Mizer to make curved beams.

I've made a few arched beams but it wasn't my fault! :

beenthere · May 27, 2006, 10:03:50 AM

Can you tell us more about what it is you are after? How much curve? Over what distance? Are you looking for the curved log, or planning to saw a curve in a log (if you have the curved log, would like to see a pic)?

Will it just be one log for the bridge, or duplicate logs that need to have the same 'curve' to them over the same distance?

Furby · May 27, 2006, 11:11:41 AM

There is a thread around here someplace of another member's need for curved timbers for his arched bridge over his stairway. ;) ;)

timcosby · May 28, 2006, 04:00:53 AM

i am using a norwood lumberlite 24. i found a tree with a good arch about 12' long. i am going to try to get two 3" wide beam from the center of it for a 4' walkway or bridge over a spillway at my pond. kinda at a standstill as the dozer tracks caught the edge of the chainsaw (operaTER ERRORRRRRR) SHE DOESN'T LOOK PRETTY maybe good for parts. will get pics sunday or monday. i am thinking just lay her
on the tracks and cut through the middle (to reduce weight) by cutting some scooting log anound, cutting some etc etc to end of log. just wondering how to keep it level as i go until i get it in half and flopped over on the flat cut.

MotorSeven · May 28, 2006, 06:49:07 AM

Depends on how much "artist" is in you. I think i would set it on the ground on blocks the way it's going to go over the spillway and dog it down somehow(drive stakes in the ground & screw the ends to them), use some painters tape to mark the cut and, then take your new {fill in brand of saw} chainsaw and freehand the cut. If you take your time and straddle the log you should be able to keep the cut vertical. If it fits on the bandsaw after that then go ahead, if not just free hand the two cuts. I would sharpen the saw after each cut and make sure the oiler is wide open. Don't force it, let the saw do all the work...it will be slow without a ripping chain, but it may work, depending on what type of wood ya got.
Are you needing the full 12'? if so i would recommend a ripping chain, or file an old chain to 5 degrees ...........good luck! :-\

RD

Fla._Deadheader · May 28, 2006, 09:58:00 AM

Might consider laying a partial sheet of pywood on the buniks.Wedge the log on top of the plwood, so it won't roll as you saw.Plywood will scoot without movement of the log. Make heavy slab, cut 2 beams, saw the slab pieces for curved bench seats or table tops. ;D ;D

timcosby · May 31, 2006, 01:00:14 AM

pics... see gallery for comments

Brad_S. · May 31, 2006, 06:05:00 AM

Sawmill and Woodlot magazine had an article on sawing curves but the website is under construction and you can't access the back issues section at the moment. I'll try to remember to dig out that issue at my shop and give you the issue info.

Brad_S. · June 02, 2006, 10:49:18 PM

Here's a link to the article I was thinking of. Don't know if it'll be much help or not.
https://host.maineserver.com/sawmillmag/articles_index.html?article_id=37

timcosby · June 07, 2006, 01:13:07 AM

curved slabs

hangin off just a tad

obscene material do not look below

bent four of the bunks in the process

it was a lot easier than i had expected. a smaller log would have been easy as a straight log.

Kelvin · June 07, 2006, 08:47:29 AM

How did you do it? Chainsaw first? All on mill? I'd like to try this as well!
KP

Green Mountain Guy · June 07, 2006, 07:21:36 PM

:P Independent Sawmill and Woodlot management magazine June/July 2002 has an article on curved wood sawing. Send me a pm with your mailing address and I'll send the magazine to you.
Alton

timcosby · June 08, 2006, 12:39:13 AM

HEY KEVIN... I DID IT ALL ON THE MILL. I DID HAVE TO SHAVE THE EDGES IN A COUPLE SPOTS JUST TO GET THROUGH THE THROAT. IT WAS BASICALLY CUT 6", BACK OUT AN INCH, PRY LOG AROUND, ETC ETC TO END OF LOG. PROBABLY WOULDN'T HAVE BENT THE BUNKS IF I HAD SHAVED THE KNOBBYS OFF OF IT BEFOR PUTTING ON BED AND TO GET IT UP THERE I USED THE DOZER. YOU CAN ALWAYS BEND [I have typed a profane word that is automatically changed by the forum censored words program I should know better] WITH A DOZER AROUND. I HAVE THE TRACKS SPOT WELDED TO THE BED SO I JUST BENT THE BUNKS BACK INTO PLACE. SORRY ABOUT YELLING JUST TO LAZY TO hit the caps lock button.