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A good sawshed header design

Started by Don P, May 19, 2006, 11:26:59 PM

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Don P

Below is a link to a pdf file at APA, the American Plywood Association, on building Box Beams with spans up to 24 feet.

Their whole series of downloadable publications requires registering but is worth checking out. I think this will take you to the registration page.
http://www.apawood.org/level_b.cfm?content=pub_main

Box Beam pdf
This is a good way to span a sawshed opening.

KiwiCharlie

Don,
Thanks for the link, thats a great one.  Im still looking at various plans and styles of sheds.  You can never have too much info!
Good stuff.  Thanks again.
Cheers
Charlie.
Walk tall and carry a big Stihl.

brdmkr

That is a good site.  Thanks for the link.
Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

Snag

Thanks for sharing the likn Don.  I was actually just pondering how I was going to make a 20' opening for a small building to put my mill in.  You just solved it for me.  Thanks.

Jerome

FiremanEd

Don,

I know a lot of guys like to build their own stuff but you might want to check on the cost of a commercial LVL from your local supplier. I looked at building them and with value on my time it was a good bit less expensive to buy commercial LVL's. We have 22' & 30' openings in our millhouse.

Eddie
Full time Firefighter / Paramedic
WoodMizer LT300 as secondary, full time job.
AccuTrac Electric Edger

Riles

The trick would be finding 2X4 or 2X6 pieces 30 feet long.  :o The design calls for continuous top and bottom flange pieces.
Knowledge is good -- Faber College

Radar67

Quote from: Don P on May 19, 2006, 11:26:59 PM
Below is a link to a pdf file at APA, the American Plywood Association, on building Box Beams with spans up to 24 feet.

Box Beam pdf
This is a good way to span a sawshed opening.

Don, thanks for providing this link. I downloaded the file and just finished building 2 16 foot beams for my shed/cabin. The beams seem to be extremely strong, yet they are light...light enough that I installed both by myself with only the help of a block and tackle.

Now my arm is another story...it will take a few days to recover from driving all the nails required for these beams. It took roughly 1000 nails for each beam, I have been a hammering fool for the last two days. ( I thought about using an air nailer, but could not find out if the nails were similar in strength, so I went with the suggested method). I'll take a few pictures this week.

Stew
"A man's time is the most valuable gift he can give another." TOM

If he can cling to his Blackberry, I can cling to my guns... Me

This will kill you, that will kill you, heck...life will kill you, but you got to live it!

"The man who can comprehend the why, can create the how." SFC J

Don P

I'm glad it worked. Do post some pics.
I can figure the interchange for gun nails next time. The APA help desk probably would too  :-X ;D.
My dad never has owned a nail gun, I still can't keep up with him hand driving.

And have no desire to try  :D

A thread on a construction forum turned up this pdf, its another good read;
http://toolbase.org/PDF/DesignGuides/flitchplate.pdf

Don K

Wished I would have had this a few months ago when I built my sawshed. :(

I saved it anyway as I'm sure I'm not through building things. After all, I do own a sawmill. ;D ;D
Lucky to own a WM LT40HDD35, blessed to have a wife that encouraged me to buy it.     Now that\'s true love!
Massey Ferguson 1547 FWD with FEL  06 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4X4 Dozer Retriever Husky 359 20\" Bar  Man, life is getting good!

scgargoyle

I noticed in the text they mentioned using glue as well (but not in place of the nails). As an old boatbuilder, I can tell you the glue would make a substantial improvement in rigidity and life-span. I glue everything! A boatbiuilder I knew in CT once built one of his plywood rowboats entirely w/ glue- no fastenings at all. It held up fine.
I hope my ship comes in before the dock rots!

Radar67

Just got in from working on my shed. Here are the pictures of the beam I promised.



This is just a 16 inch section, you can see the amount of nails used.



Here you get a better idea of the overall amount of nails.

Stew
"A man's time is the most valuable gift he can give another." TOM

If he can cling to his Blackberry, I can cling to my guns... Me

This will kill you, that will kill you, heck...life will kill you, but you got to live it!

"The man who can comprehend the why, can create the how." SFC J

beenthere

Looks good.
Do you have double 2x in the top and also in the bottom of the beams? Appears to be two rows of nails. Also, did you glue before nailing?

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Radar67

Yes, I used double 2 bys in top and bottom. I did not glue. The information sheet said the nails were adequate for the listed loads and glue could be used to increase stiffness. I only spanned 16 foot and each beam should hold 3000 pounds based on the listed loads less about 10%, should be more than enough for my application.

Stew
"A man's time is the most valuable gift he can give another." TOM

If he can cling to his Blackberry, I can cling to my guns... Me

This will kill you, that will kill you, heck...life will kill you, but you got to live it!

"The man who can comprehend the why, can create the how." SFC J

scsmith42

RE nail guns, the Porter Cable FR350Mag will drive a nail up to 3.5" in length and .161 in diameter.  Of the framing nailers that I researched a few years back, it had the greatest capacity in terms of diameter and length.  It's hard to find nails longer than 3.25" and .131 in diameter though.

There are some bridge nailing guns that will drive 6" and longer nails, but they are pretty large.

Maze nails offers some high quality nailgun nails (in terms of strength).

Nice job on the beam.

Scott
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

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