Can anyone recommend a book on building with green lumber?

Modat22 · April 28, 2006, 10:13:02 AM

I'm looking for books on how to cope/plan for the problems with building with fresh cut green lumber (not timber frame). I did order one out of print book titled "The greenwood house" by Larry Michael Hackenberg.

Basically I want to stick build a 30 x 40 or 60 pole barn with board and batten siding and use it as a wood shop. Insulating and adding rooms inside as demand rises. I've outgrown my little 12 x 16 building and working in there has become an exercise in aggravation.

Any recommendations on reading books greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Sam

scsmith42 · April 28, 2006, 10:17:00 AM

Steve Chappell, Jack Sobon and Ted Benson have written several books on timber frameing - all are good reads.

Steve Chappell's "A Timber Framers Workshop" is an excellent working book with detailed information. You may be able to find a deal on a used copy on Amazon.

Good luck.

Scott

Modat22 · April 28, 2006, 10:25:01 AM

Thank you sir. I don't think I'll be doing a timber frame though. I'd like to just use fresh cut 2x6's etc. I don't know how to plan for the shrinkage and warpage though not to mention that I don't have alot of experience in building buildings.

beenthere · April 28, 2006, 10:32:34 AM

What species would you be thinking of using?

Modat22 · April 28, 2006, 10:37:50 AM

I have an over abundance of red oak, poplar and 10inch dia cedar on my property.

I've heard red oak is brittle though (seems like my red oak sustain more damage from storms than other trees)

scsmith42 · April 28, 2006, 11:08:30 AM

Modat, most of the timber frame books contain good information on planning for shrinkage, etc. They also typically contain charts that list the percentages of shrinkage that you can expect across different axis, ect.

All in all, a wealth of information can be found in them in addition to timber framing techniques.

Good luck!

Scott

Modat22 · April 28, 2006, 11:10:16 AM

I thought about that as well, the books would be a good investment Would give me some great dreaming material since I love timber framed buildings anyhow.

Thanks

scsmith42 · April 28, 2006, 11:14:39 AM

Chappell's book has about 15 pages devoted to working with green timbers and boards, planning for shrinkage, etc.

If you'll pm me with a fax number, I'll copy the pages later today and fax them to you.

Scott

Modat22 · April 28, 2006, 11:38:31 AM

PM away! Thankyou sir!

Don P · April 28, 2006, 09:15:13 PM

With any of those woods, if you're cutting and stickering 2x now, by late summer it'll be as dry as the framing stock at the building supply.

Jim_Rogers · April 29, 2006, 07:39:57 AM

Try and drive a nail through a 2x6 piece of red oak and you'll soon learn why softwoods are used for framing stock.....

I understand that you want to use your available types but you should choose which pieces are made out of which type depending on what they are.
Red oak boards will make strong roof decking, and could even make nice siding, door and window trim also.

Plan ahead.

Jim Rogers

Max sawdust · April 29, 2006, 07:03:56 PM

Mod,
Consider what Jim says. Red oak or dry Popple/Aspen is hard as a rock. Could get frustrating with a big stick frame project.

(Not saying I would not try it, cause I refuse to buy "store bought" stuff) :

:

;)

Hence the reason I am teaching my self timber framing. (Very steep learning curve ;D)

Either way just cutting and stickering for the summer as Don P mentions would get much of the wild movement out of the wood in my opinion.

Max

Buzz-sawyer · April 29, 2006, 07:16:39 PM

Hi there
I have built many a platform framed type building as well as trusses and such using mixed hardwood lumber....

you want to use it green, because it is much easier to work with ...the only real downside I have had , is when using sycamore and cottonwood, and sweet gum, twisting can be annoying some times....stay away from knotty logs and that will help a bunch....one word for you .....AIR NAILER...must have for what you are planning....it makes ALL the difference...I have even nailed seanoned hedge with it ;) ;)

Modat22 · May 01, 2006, 08:22:52 AM

Hey guys thanks for the help, I'm researching using all the lumber green I've experianced the dried oak / nail phenoma before and don't want to experiance it again. Aye I believe in nail guns thought I tend to go a little crazy with it.

Thanks again

crtreedude · May 01, 2006, 09:00:53 AM

Most homes here are done with green wood - well, almost green. It is airdried for a few weeks (3 or 4) and then nailed up.

Since the climate is pretty much the same all year round, it works.

Since wood doesn't shrink much length ways, that they do is nail up the rafters, put the roof on it and let it dry a bit more. Then put up the interior stuff.

Works pretty well.

But understand, we don't really care if anything is air-tight.

exssnelt · May 23, 2006, 02:07:07 AM

Here is a link to a Mother Earth article: Link

I have read the book "The Green Wood House" Listed in the article. It is very informative.

submarinesailor · May 25, 2006, 11:37:20 AM

Exssnelt,

Followed your link and read the article. Liked it, so I emailed Larry Michael for a PDF copy. Had it in my computer in about 35 minutes – not too bad of a response I would say. Now I just need to find the time to read it.

Bruce/subsailor

Modat22 · May 25, 2006, 11:42:04 AM

Hey exssnelt
I bought that book listed in that web link. Its a great book and well worth picking up.

Thanks

ThatGuyDuncan · March 26, 2017, 03:27:35 PM

Quote from: Modat22 on April 28, 2006, 10:13:02 AM... I want to stick build a 30 x 40 or 60 pole barn with board and batten siding and use it as a wood shop. Insulating and adding rooms inside as demand rises.

I think you've had about ten years to complete the project -- what direction did you take, and how did it all turn out??? I'm looking at a very similar project and share your interest in working with green wood. Thanks!

PC-Urban-Sawyer · March 26, 2017, 04:08:09 PM

You may be waiting for a while for an answers from Modat22. He hasn't been logged on in about a year...

Herb

fishfighter · March 27, 2017, 11:50:10 AM

Quote from: ThatGuyDuncan on March 26, 2017, 03:27:35 PM
Quote from: Modat22 on April 28, 2006, 10:13:02 AM... I want to stick build a 30 x 40 or 60 pole barn with board and batten siding and use it as a wood shop. Insulating and adding rooms inside as demand rises.

I think you've had about ten years to complete the project -- what direction did you take, and how did it all turn out??? I'm looking at a very similar project and share your interest in working with green wood. Thanks!

Look at my thread building. That has been done with all green lumber. Oak and pine. Very little problems once things started to dry.

redbox13 · April 08, 2022, 11:22:46 PM

Hi, I am in a similar situation that Modat was in, all those years ago. I am looking for "The Green Wood House" and have seen it on Amazon for $750+. I think that may be too high a price for me. Any suggestions?

kantuckid · April 09, 2022, 11:05:26 AM

I used to have the book: "The Green Wood House" but can't say I really learned anything from it? General idea is "throw it up off the mill" and it dries in place. Knowing how to 'throw it up" is the crucial aspect :D

Prizl tha Chizl · April 14, 2022, 01:03:04 PM

We built our home with green wood fresh off the mill, and my advice is to use dry lumber for all stick built aspects. Timbers don't twist too much as they dry, but 2x stock moves all over the place as it dries, very annoying as you go back to adjust every door and window opening framed, and attempt to flatten walls, (unless you are plastering and don't need them flat.) i suspect 3-6 months stacked and stickered would let a lot of the movement out. Sawing as much as possible on the radial plane might help also. Maybe not so much of an issue in a pole shed, though.