Filling the chainsaw bar for bent

[alsayyed]

Hello every one I read twice thread on this forum that chainsaw owner file the chainsaw bar in case of any bent. So today I grabed  the file and started filling  around the groove from both side trying to find if there is any bent but could not see any. All I have found that because I heated the bar the other day on the top of the bar I get like very sharp edge I mean some thing coming from the bar wall if this is good description to say, so what I have done is I filed that extra piece then the bar became smooth so I am asking my self is that what people looking for of something else that I do not know.

[Kirk_Allen]

You want your bar rails to be flat on both the top and bottom.  I place my bars on edge on a peice of glass to ensure they are 90 degrees to the flat surface. If they are leaning to one side or another then the edge is not square and you will get angled cuts.  The bigger the log the more you will notice it.

Baileys makes a had file to fix the rails but I just use my shop bench sander to make the rails square and flat again.  I also use the rail closer to get the rails back to normal thickness. Makes a big difference when the chain fits right with litte slop. 

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/1349?mv_session_id=2SfkdCp5&product_sku=UKF

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/1479?mv_session_id=2SfkdCp5&product_sku=W%2010001

[Bill]

alsayyed

I don't have much experience with bar bending or bar repair. I do know if my saw is cutting in circles that its either the chain or the bar. If the chain is true ( OK ) then its the bar. There's some good reading here on FF forum and here's some basics to get started. The slot for the chain in the bar has to be exactly the correct width. It has to be the correct height ( from the bottom of the slot to the top ). The rails have to be flat and perpendicular to the sides of the bar.  The bar should be perpendicular to the engine. There can't be any burrs, nicks or missing spaces on the cutting/running surfaces. Those are just some basics and there is much more on FF and the internet.

Even though I just cut firewood, there's a fair amount of "blow downs" in my neck of the woods - on my 4x4 , on my house, etc. So I keep two bars ( 18" and 24" ) and three chains for my bigger saw ( 75 cc's ). That way I can repair or sharpen one set and still use the other. I can also compare one to the other to see if something has changed - for the worse needs to be fixed. I also then have a small saw for small wood. It serves as a backup for the bigger saw should it stop or . . . 

IMHO - If I were in your shoes, I think I'd pick up an extra chain and bar so I'd have a good working set to look at when the first set started to act up ( fail ).

Good Luck

[Kirk_Allen]

The slot for the chain in the bar has to be exactly the correct width. It has to be the correct height ( from the bottom of the slot to the top ).

The bar rail closer I mentioned will take care of the width of the bar slot but when it comes to the height from the bottom of the slot to the top it makes little difference what that height is as long as the chain drive links are not dragging the bottom of the rail. 

There is quite a bit of space from the top of the rail to the bottom to allow for dressing the bar as it wears.  Each time you dress the bar the hight will change.  Once the bar is dressed or filed downt to a point where the drive links bottom out then its time to discard the bar.

[snowman]

Baileys also sells a bar grinder for $300, I know that sounds like alot of money but if you saw alot it's money well spent.I sawed 15 years without one and took my bar to the saw shop to be ground once a month at 9 bucks a wack. Thats 100 bucks a year so the grinder soon pays for itself.Ive had mine now for 10 years and touch up my bars once a week, between that and the rail closer im my own bar shop.Not only is this cheaper in the long run but it's convenient and I dont run my bars until they start cutting crooked, much less frustrating!