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Homemade bandmill guard designs what works and what doesn't!

Started by HOGFARMER, March 19, 2006, 03:06:32 PM

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HOGFARMER

I have the guides mounted on my mill now and am ready to start the guards for the blade.  What works well and what doesn't?  I see many people use tandem axle trailer fenders by extending their length.  Are they strong enough if a blade breaks?  Do you close in the back, what about doors on the front?  Or are you ahead to make them out of 14 gauge steel if so what bracing or framing is required on the inside?  I may mount my fuel tank on top of the guard is this a good idea?  All help and suggestions would be appreciated and photos are welcomed.  Thank you!!!!
Manual LT-30

Tom

Hogfarmer, I've seen broken blades come spiraling 3 ro 4 feet out of a commercially manufactured shroud  and throw pieces of broken blade 20 ft out of the sawdust chute.  There is no doubt in my mind that the entire area where the spinning blade is, should be encapsulated in a continous sheet of metal, sturdy enough to stop the continual attack a broken blade will make upon it when hung up on a belt, tire or spinning axle.


thecfarm

I have a Thomas Bandsaw.You can see how they do the guards.
www.thomasbandsawmills.com  But proably any of the others manual will show it too.These guards swing up so you can get at the blade on both sides if needed.There is a T-handle that comes off the top that goes into the side when I have to lift it up.I would not want anything on top of these if it was me.There's not really much of a support inside.Don't really need much.Just enough to keep it steady.I've had blades come off a few times and these guards did what they were suppose to do.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

HOGFARMER

Thanks guys, keep them coming and I will try to incorporate as many good ideas into my design as I can.  My primary goal is safety.
Manual LT-30

Brad_S.

When I first saw the plywood doors on Timber Harvesters, I thought "That sure looks chintzy". The saw I had at the time (Breezewood) had expanded metal grating that I thought looked 'cool'. It was only after I threw a blade inadvertently hitting a knot on gig back that I saw the wisdom of the TH design. Kicking a blade on the TH messes up the set, but the blade lives to fight again another day. The Breezewood metal stripped the teeth off blades that hit the metal guards.
Speaking for myself, I have never had a blade or pieces thrown from the shroud. I've had busted blades peek a foot or two out the dust exhaust port, but the exhaust is angled down to the ground and out of harms way even if it were to completely exit the shroud. A violent break may pop the doors off and scare the bejebbers out of customers, but that seems to exhaust the kinetic energy of the blade in the process and it still stays in the shroud.
If I were building a saw, I would shroud the back and sides in steel and allow for kicking blades with a design that will not destroy the blade in the process. Along with rolling a log off the backside of the mill and sawing your posts, kicking your blade off on occasion will happen to every sawyer.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

RichlandSawyer

If i ever get it running and chuck a blade i'll let you know how it works.





Every log i open up, a board falls out!!!

jrokusek

Quote from: RichlandSawyer on March 19, 2006, 10:33:37 PM
If i ever get it running and chuck a blade i'll let you know how it works.

Ditto.  Seems like this project will NEVER end.  I'm going with aluminum.  The aluminum guards are not bolted down in these photos.  I've got a blade on and spun her for a while and so far so good.  Even over reved it with the governor and it stayed together just fine  8)



slowzuki

I threw a blade with no guards on the first cut I made.  The blade jumped off, spun on the bed of the mill for a second then some teeth hooked up and threw it violently against the garage wall cutting about a 1/4 inch of chipboard off in the process.

The blade was missing 3 teeth afterwords ;D

Dan_Shade

what did your drawers look like afterwards  :)

the thought of a band going nuts scares the crap out of me, i sliced myself up pretty good just uncoiling my first band.  I don't ever want to see what one will do being thrown off under power
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

slowzuki

I've since lost the same band 3 more times in the process of setting up.  These have all been with the covers on the mill.  With the covers on it and out of a cut it wangs around in there for a bit and scratches the aluminum up.  In a cut the blade just seems to stop and very little excitement.

I  have considered making a slotted wooden block for the top of the blade to ride in to try and grab the blade better if it comes off.

HOGFARMER

Has anyone mounted a battery or fuel tank on top of the guard.  I am considering doing this to kind of balance out the weight of the engine and it would be handy and out of the way.
Manual LT-30

Wudman

My lube tank is mounted on top of the blade guards.  I used a "tandem axle fender" for the guard and it is supported by 1" heavy box tubing.  I don't think a small battery or fuel tank would be any issue.

Wudman
"You may tear down statues and burn buildings but you can't kill the spirit of patriots and when they've had enough this madness will end."
Charlie Daniels
July 4, 2020 (2 days before his death)

valley ranch

This thread has been inactive for a while I would like to see more of how guards have been made and installed.
This is a very good thread on an important subject.

Kbeitz

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

POSTON WIDEHEAD

You guys are doing some nice dabbing fabbing. Thanks for the pics.  :)
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Ljohnsaw

One inch square tube on three sides (top/bottom/outside edge) on both the front and back.  Top and sides and bottom are heavy pre-formed steel (14g or so) and an aluminum front panel.  No space for a back panel.  A little piece of plastic barrel as a deflector.

 
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

thecfarm

I never did post a picture.



 

You can see the t handle that I mentioned,it's right above the spoke of the band wheel at 12 o'clock. The t handle is holding up the guide. Take it out and it threads into a nut on top of the guard to keep it in place.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

MikeZ

I went cheap route, now after 3 winters outside it's time to redo. Made the mistake of using 8mm luan. Would like to go alum. but lots of $. Prob use 1/4 ext plywood this time. Maybe try harder to get covered up next time. Need to watch weight cause putting 25# bigger motor and double belt pulley system on. Kind of sadening when the old luan looks like a grenade went off the way it came apart.
MikeZ  Homemade  Mill

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: MikeZ on February 28, 2016, 09:01:27 PM
I went cheap route, now after 3 winters outside it's time to redo. Made the mistake of using 8mm luan. Would like to go alum. but lots of $. Prob use 1/4 ext plywood this time. Maybe try harder to get covered up next time. Need to watch weight cause putting 25# bigger motor and double belt pulley system on. Kind of sadening when the old luan looks like a grenade went off the way it came apart.

MikeZ,
Is that a real propane tank for running your engine, or are you using it as a lube tank?  If you are running on propane, how is that working for you?
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

MikeZ

ljohnsaw: that tank was for compressed air. I used an air cyl for thottle.
MikeZ  Homemade  Mill

Rougespear

Custom built Cook's-style hydraulic bandmill.

gww

I am still running mine with out guards.  I cut by myself and if that changed I would probly do something simple like kbeitz did.  I have broke about 6 blades cause I run till failure.  I find it pretty uneventfull when one breaks.  I do however stay away from the side of the mill while the blade is turning.  I have twice started the mill before I put the blade under tension and thought the possible damage to the mill could be worse then with a broken blade. 

I am not saying to run with out a guard just that I do it.  I do believe that if you are using tires as your blade wheel, that guarding could create more of a risk of your blade ruining your tires when they break.  If I ever start working with help, I will have to take the chance and put guards on.  I will be thinking of a way to guard it and still maby not eat up a tire if a blade breaks.

I love all the fabrication this thread has shown so far.
Cheers
gww

valley ranch

Kbeitz, I just measured, I can get away with an 2"X8.5"  instead of a 2"X 6" [ I can rip a 2X10] and make them like your. Do you have a bottom or just sides and top?

Thanks for coming by guys!

Kbeitz

3/4" ply wood back bolted to the frame.
Then 2 x 6" on the top and both sides.
Front has 3/4" plywood hinged to the top 2 x 6
with jeep hood latches to hold the front shut.
Bottom is open.



 



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

valley ranch

Thanks kbeitz, I'll do the same. I cut the plywood for the back, I'll attach it and rip some
2" by to 8 1/2" for the top and sides.

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