Home Brew Sawmill Updates Please

Grappletractor · March 11, 2006, 06:37:32 PM

I know there are a few home brew sawmill projects in the works by members of this board. How about some updates guys? I myself am not far from starting a sawmill project and would love to see the progress of these various mills.

Shawn · March 11, 2006, 08:49:57 PM

I'm building a sawmill soon. I have most parts. Waiting for my engine to arrive and a dry day this week to go pick up my steel. I can't wait to share my pictures with you all. I hope you all like the way I am mounting my "band wheels". Arrived home shortly ago with a new borrow arc welder. I AM DANGEROUS!!!! Stand back kids!!! ;D
I'll try to get a pc of parts so far.
Shawn...

Grappletractor · March 11, 2006, 08:58:13 PM

Details please . Manual of hydralic. Lenght of frame . Size of bandwheels.

thecfarm · March 11, 2006, 09:00:18 PM

I don't have the know how on building a mill,so I bought one.Only a manual bandsaw but it has a 20 foot track.At the time I did not give it a thought,I wanted to saw 20 foot logs,just in case.Glad I did now.Now I have 2 feet on each end to play with when I cut a 16 foot log.A very important factor when you don't have a toeboard.Make sure you can adjust the head in all directions.

Trent · March 11, 2006, 10:51:17 PM

Sorry I don't have pics. I'm building a mill of my own design. Angle iron tracks sit on flanges of 8" channel iron (20' long). Traversing cutting head made 4"x4" box tube (2 post). 18 HP kohler and hydostat unit salvaged from Snapper mower. The Kohler drives spindles from Dodge van rear wheels. Temp auto spares (23") used to carry blade. Hyd. tensioning. Hydostat unit driven by 5 HP engine. 12 volt gearmotor used to raise head up and down. 2 #40 chain and sprokets to pull (with hydrostat unit) head back and forth. Total weight about 2000#. I'm about 70% done. Trent

Shawn · March 12, 2006, 10:31:55 AM

Trent - I have one thing to say about your signature phrase...AMEN!!! ;D

My mill will use 20" trailer wheels and hubs on pillow blocks. I have a 11HP tecumseh (on order) with electric start. I'll have 3 - 6' sections for the tracks made from angle iron. I bought a used ATV winch to raise and lower cutter head. It will look somewhat simular to an oscar 30. Box style carriage. I don't look forward to the issue I didn't think about. One inch bolt for tensioner system. Throttle will be controlled by a bicycle brake handle, mounted on push hanlde. I may put on a carriage feed system if I need it, I have my plate full as it is now. I'm 2% completed, waiting on engine, dry day to pickup steel and need to order clutch and drive pulley.
Shawn...

jrokusek · March 12, 2006, 01:29:19 PM

Slow going in the winter for me. Sawmill is 75 miles from where I live, new job with lots of stress (good $ though), going back to school, a 2 year old toddler in the house, etc. have all slowed me down lots. That being said....I did make a little sawdust. LOTS of tweaking to be done yet: beef up the blade guides, redesign the log stops, align the wheels a bit better, and a few other odds and ends. When I get that all done I'm going to pour an oversized sidewalk, bolt some treated 6x6 beams to the sidewalk, then bolt the track to the 6x6 timbers. Here's where I'm at right now:

The last picture is a cottonwood log. Incredibly nice looking wood. It actually had a bit of spalting in it. I think it could pass as maple to the untrained eye. Unfortunately the head of the bandmill doesn't go any lower so I couldn't cut any more of this log. I forgot....I have to "tweak" that too! :D

Jim

mike_van · March 12, 2006, 01:37:07 PM

Jim, I found the "tweaking" went on for a couple years, then it was like it should have been! :D

highpockets · March 12, 2006, 08:23:35 PM

I really like to see folks building mills. There is one thing that I strongly recommend. Start with at least
3" x 6" x 1/4 square tubing for the frame. I used some 4" x 6" x 3/8" angle iron since the guy I was building for had the metal. I knew better but let him talk me into it. I spend days trying to get enough addition metal in the frame to stabilize it. To me it is the most important thing in a mill.

HOGFARMER · March 13, 2006, 07:29:55 PM

I am using 3X5 angle iron 1/4" thick with a 3X3 1/4" wall box tube below that to make it more rigid. Engine is an 18 HP Briggs. Have just finished mounting Cook's guides on it. I now need to make the blade guards and log clamps then I will be ready to try to cut some lumber.

ex-racer · March 13, 2006, 08:36:43 PM

Regarding track construction, I made my (circle mill) track in the form of a steel truss. It is constructed from 1-1/4" angle and 3/4" pipe, and is very rigid and lightweight, although there was a lot of welding involved.

Here the 40 foot track is shown folded to an overall length of 20 ft. for transportation.

Ed

By the way, how do you guys get such good photo quality? I had to almost ruin these in order to get them uploaded. I'm using Jpeg Optimizer.

Fla._Deadheader · March 13, 2006, 08:47:26 PM

Lots of guys use "xat" free download at xat.com. Resize to 400 X 300 and then compress to 30K or a tad under.

Shawn · March 18, 2006, 10:30:26 PM

When tensioning the blade, we can only get so much tension on it before the tires start to deform. What to do?

I was down at my neighbors today. He wants me to clear all the leaning trees from his property. About 10 in all. 12"-30" ash, maple and oak. One oak is about 36". I better get cracking!!!

Hey doug, where you been lately? Hows everything going?

Shawn...

Furby · March 18, 2006, 10:48:35 PM

When the tires deform, ya have too much tension.
Pretty simple really. ;D

Shawn · March 18, 2006, 11:13:30 PM

Even when using trailer wheels/tires?

Furby · March 18, 2006, 11:54:42 PM

Well ya can't run with deformed wheels now can ya? :D
The tension thing is a touchy subject with some. Some belive ya have to have soooooo much tension on those bands, others much less. ;)
Some of it has to do with different types of mills as some mills do require more tesion, some of it is misinformation though.
Harold may have some better advice for ya reguarding the tires, but I wouldn't worry about it until you have actually tried cutting something.
Actually, do a search on Fla_Deadheader's posts about this subject, it should answer all your questions. ;)

wiam · March 19, 2006, 12:28:06 AM

What are you running for air pressure. I run 35-40psi.

Will

Fla._Deadheader · March 19, 2006, 09:03:46 AM

Put 60·pounds of air in them taars. ;) We peeled off most of the tread, so the tread ribs in the center would act like v-belt type taars. Don't know if it made a difference, but, we can cut 36" live Oak boards without blade problems. ;D ;D ;D

Where's them photos, Shawn ??

Folks just don't think, when discussing them taars. If you can put a whole car on 4 taars, that might weigh 3000 pounds, and the taars are only touching the road with about 8" of taar surface, how much weight could you put on them taars, if they was touching half way around ????????? Think about DAT 8) :D :D

Shawn · March 19, 2006, 09:22:44 AM

Pictures? I pulled a muscle in my back last Sat. getting that welder out of my truck, so I haven't felt up to going to pickup my steel. My engine ( 11HP tecumseh ) will be here at the end of march or early april. Besides those two I only need clutch and pulley and lube system. The centrifugal clutch $$$$$$$$ is hard to swallow, but i'll get it. I think i'll go with the linn lumber brand.

Fla._Deadheader · March 19, 2006, 09:32:57 AM

Clutches are fine. We didn't use one. Too cheap

We designed an "over center" lever, that lifts the engine and self locks. Really easy to do.

Here's the blade tensioner

Can't locate the photos of the engine lifter.

Should have my other computer online in a few days. Have LOTS of photos on that one.

Trent · March 19, 2006, 02:22:49 PM

OK, I'm getting ready to have carrage traveling under power in the next couple weeks. Carrage/Head whatever it's called weights about 600#, travels with ease down the inverted angle iron track. What I'm about to do is sprockets, chain, and cross shafts. I'm using a salvaged hydrostat unit (powered by chinese 6.5 HP) from my old snapper tractor to control the carrage travel speed. To allow for quick return, I've turned the unit around to run at faster speeds on return (forward on mower faster that reverse). I have the freedom right now to choose ratios, pulley sizes, and, sprocket sizes. There should be plenty of power and speed available. NOW, what Max. speed should I shoot for? (cut and return), Also, are there other things I need to be whatching out for at this point? Thank you, Trent

Furby · March 19, 2006, 02:30:22 PM

One question?
Do you have anyway to keep that thing from jumping the track?
That's a lot of weight and ya don't wanna run it too fast.

Trent · March 19, 2006, 04:44:07 PM

Yes, Cam follower bearings have it locked into the channel iron. Why not run it fast? Trent

thecfarm · March 19, 2006, 06:44:29 PM

My manual mill is not really locked on the tracks.All there is is 4 pieces of ¼ metal bent in an L shape.The L part rides under the rail.This has saved it a couple times from coming off all the way.It comes off the track,but it can't go far.