Phase II: A good day for a raising.

[Raphael]

9AM:   


5PM:   8)


  I'm happy to report my design assembled w/ no major difficulties.  Assembly was as tight as I thought it would be, but it all pulled together solid as a rock.



  We lost the light before I got a chance to take a picture with all the purlins in place.  I'll add one to this thread soon.
  Tomorrow I mill the upper cord for my hammer beam (from an Oak selected for me by the beavers) and get back to frantically cutting the office timbers...  Stress skin arrives the 13th (ready or not).  :-\

[Jim_Rogers]

Looks good!

I'll be interested in seeing how you deal with the skin over the shed roof on the main structure wall, where it meets the shed roof.
What is the plan for that?

Jim Rogers

[TexasTimbers]

Great job Raphael 8) 8) 8)

Re: the the shed roof against the wall are you using panels for the roof too Raphael?
Shouldn't be a big deal Jim. Flash the roof into the stress skin wall if it's some sort of conventional roof (asphalt/metal/even shake) and if its stress skin hang the wall panels on top of the roof panels, then flash it all together then roof it with whatever and then side it.
Rafe aren't you going to install some timbers or built up stick framing between posts to give a nail base for the wall? Looks like the purlins are not all the way against the post, so you are not yet done with the framing right there at the roof/wall plane? You could always hang a "flush ledger" or "long blocking" for lack of a better term.
I am not a TFer yet but conventional stick framing rules would apply here I would think.
Of course I stand to be enlightened .... yet again; and I sure don't mind it as I am about to go down this road as well.

[raycon]

Looking good. 
Is there a phase III for the frame?


Photo's we need photos.

[Raphael]

Phase III is the office which gets raised concurrently with stress skin installation.  I seem to be pushing my limit with photos here (I had to delete several to make room for these).  This first one shows off the future location of the office well.


Stress skin will be attached to the west end of the primary frame and then the office frame will be raised so a portion of the stress skin will be interior wall on both sides.  The shed is 9' deep and the office (18' x 16') will match it's roof line.   The only timber connection with the house is a tennon (tongue) on the end of the shed plate.


  Here's our plan for the join between the Shed roof panel and the main frame.
  The top most panel on the shed roof will be a 6-9/16" SIP (structural panel), the plan is to cut the 6:12 (~26.5%) plumb cut in the panel then cut it back from the sheet rock side a thin 1.5" leaving only the OSB.
  I'll plane down one side of Grade stamped Doug fir 2x8s to 1.5" and rip 26.5% bevels on the circular saw.  When the Doug fir is affixed to the sip the planed planed surface will be exposed in the bedroom.  The edge of the OSB will get taped and mudded to blend into the sheetrock of the wall panel.

  To support the panel at the shed wall I've ripped square cants into triangular timbers 4" on the short leg and 8" on the long.  These get tacked to the top of the plate and the panel is nailed or screwed though these into the plate.

A few more Pictures:

  I think this scarf turned out well for a first attempt.
It's actually better than any of the simple bladed scarfs in the primary frame.


  This shows my solution for attaching posts to a modern deck.  The posts and rim joists land on pads of plywood of varying thicknesses to get them all level.  The posts are rabbeted to bring them out flush with the rimjoist and will be fixed w/ a lag bolt and nails.  It wil also be boxed on the inside to support the subfloor.
The picture also shows a classic preassembly oversight.


  Lastly two pictures from the inside looking out to the SE & SW.
 

[Raphael]

You've probably figured this out already...
  I forgot to say that the upper roof panel goes on the shed before the curtainwall on the primary frame so the SIP provides bearing and nailing to the wall.

[Jim_Rogers]

What was the: "The picture also shows a classic preassembly oversight"?

Is that tie beam or girt connecting to the plate too short?

Jim Rogers

[Raphael]

What was the: "The picture also shows a classic preassembly oversight"?

Is that tie beam or girt connecting to the plate too short?

Nothing quite that drastic.
  I had the plate up on the posts and the tie beam hanging above it when I discovered that the knee brace mortice in the post never got a peg hole.  It's still missing and unpegged in the picture.

[Jim_Rogers]

Some people think that peg are only there to hold the frame together while it's being raised.....


Jim Rogers

[UNCLEBUCK]

Lookin great Raphael !  8) 8) 8)

[Raphael]

Some people think that peg are only there to hold the frame together while it's being raised.....

  That's certainly true of these knee braces as they are all designed work in compression...  I've also got a recycled brace (a 36" cut down to a 30") that's currently half unpegged as the old hole in it's tennon is misplaced (half push, half draw and too much of both).  We've been referring to such discoveries as Burwoodisms in honor of the fellow who cut the original frame.

  The rain slowed work a bit today but it really brought out the grain in the Red Oak beam I milled yesterday.

  Sure makes those Pine timbers from the local circle mill look rough and ratty

[Max sawdust]

Rafael, what are the dimensions of the main two story structure?  It looks like what I am considering.
Nice project thank you for taking the time to share it with us.  Nice Oak timbers were will those go in your project?
I like Oak and plan to do an entire frame out of it, since I Primarily log nice long straight grain Northern Red Oak
New to TF but figure I can do it with enough practice and time ;)

My problem is I just cut up 15,000BFT into 8 foot one inch boards, before I got the notion to build a TF house :

[Raphael]

  The main structure is the 18' x 36' hall and parlor detailed in Jack Sobon's book "Build a Classic Timber Framed House".  It was cut pretty much directly from the book; I did pitch the rafters upward from his 9:12 design to a more solar efficient 10.5:12 and of course added the mortices for the shed addition.
  My frames total height is 27' 5" from the bottom of the sills to the peak of the rafters and my foundation got poured higher than planned.  I'm hoping the building inspector doesn't get to anal about the 30' height restriction.
  That Oak beam is slated for the place of honor as it were.  It'll be the main tie in the hammer beam that spans the middle of my office.  I'm becoming more confident that I'll have time to get it cut and ready before the panel company arrives.

  I know how you feel I diced up some beautifully clear 16' logs just one week before discovering I needed 2 additional 4.5"x7"x14' girts and one tying joist.  The former owner had damaged tennons in the disassembly process.

[HARLEYRIDER]

My problem is I just cut up 15,000BFT into 8 foot one inch boards, before I got the notion to build a TF house :

well. you have plenty of oak to mill into flooring for your future frame :D

[hillbilly]

              Rapheal ,
     How wide is the office going to be , and what are the sizes of your hammer beam truss ?
                great job by the way.
Hillbilly

[Raphael]

The office is 18' wide.  The Oak beam is 9" x 7.5" x 10' and was to span ~7ft.
  Unfortunately there was a boring incident, either my assistant crossed a reference line or I neglected to put it there in the first place.  So the hammer beam got cancelled due to the lack of a single 4ft. 8x8" queen post, fortunately I had cut my middle bent's tie as a single beam which I planned to splitting into the interupted cords last.
  I have to come up with a design for the front entry... I figure it will feature that Oak beam.