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pole shed

Started by mikeandike, March 05, 2006, 12:33:21 PM

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mikeandike

Any good pictures or advice or building a pole shed for drying stickered
lumber?

I have some cresote poles I would use for this.
Thanks

Mike
Looking for a slabber
WMLT40HD

getoverit

One of my barns started out as a pole barn shed, then we enclosed the sides and later cemented the floor. It was built with creosote poles and has been standing and in great shape for over 40 years.

The hard part is getting the top of the poles level in the first place. Once this is done, nail 2X8 stringers along the perimeter of the top of the poles, then trusses nailed to this on 4' centers. Stringer the trusses with 1X4's, then a layer of 5v galvanized tin for the roof.

I'm a lumberjack and I'm ok, I work all night and sleep all day

DanG

Easy way to line those poles up is to snap a chalk line on them 6 or 7 inches above the bottom of your stringer and lop them all off there. Then snap a line on top, and another on the side where you want the beam to sit.  Cut in till you reach the line on top, then down to that cut, and you'll have a nice little shelf for your beam to rest on, and it won't just be hanging on the nails.

Try to plan your shed for any future growth.  Make it tall enough to accomodate any equipment you may have in the future, such as a forklift.  Make the entrances as large as you can, so you can drive a lift of lumber in crossways.  If you mill will only cut 12 foot lumber, build the entrances 20' anyway, 'cause you will either be buying an extension for the mill, or another mill in the future.  Try to imagine the biggest shed you could possibly ever need, then triple that and it should hold you for a year or so. ;)
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

getoverit

Great advice DanG !!

it holds true too !! Always build bigger than you need... because you will need it !
I'm a lumberjack and I'm ok, I work all night and sleep all day

Rockn H

This post has some good sites to check out.

other post

catvet

Hope you don't mind if I jump in here.  I'm looking to put up a shed for my new mill.  I can saw up to 18' at this point.  Any ideas on the easiest way to span a distance of 20+ feet?  I would like to use my own milled lumber to do it (would also make my wife happy after my buying the mill).  Can I cut a beam of a certain diameter to span the distance?  How about making trusses from green lumber?  All the truss plans talk about snow loads in the 35 lb/sq.ft range and we are more like 50 lb/sq. foot in this area.  I'd like, in theory to be at least 24' across to move logs in and out.

Also, I'd prefer not to use pressure treated posts due to cost.  Also the chemicals I've seen to do your own seem pretty toxic and I'm not convinced that the penetration would be that great.   Has anyone ever seen some sort of water proof sleave for around posts, sort of a giant condom.  Wouldn't that work as far as preserving the post?

Jerry
Catvet

Northern Vermont

thecfarm

Should be some cedar kicking around in your neck of the woods catvet.I have the same questions too about the spans.I have seen pressure used in a staggered layout,put 4 feet into the ground.They use 3-2x6,the 2 on the sides would stick up above the one in the middle by 2 feet.Built in this manner it would tie the uprights together.
                                                                   
                                                                   
                                                                   
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

GregS

Quote from: catvet on March 14, 2006, 07:11:20 PM
Has anyone ever seen some sort of water proof sleave for around posts, sort of a giant condom.  Wouldn't that work as far as preserving the post?

Jerry

Jetty try this site...http://www.postprotector.com/

Qweaver

Mike, here is a front view of the saw-shed that I built last summer.  The main area is 24' wide and I extended the roof 10' on one side and I'll extend the other side this summer.  I'll email you a full side front and side view if you'd like.  There is a complete cut list that I'm sure you can't read in this small pic but that will be clear on the full size ones.


So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

GregS

Jerry,  Sorry about butchering your name on that last post... ;).

Greg S

ronwood

GregS

Did you use the product on your shed. Called them up this afternoon. Looks like a possibility.

Ron
Sawing part time mostly urban logs -St. Louis/Warrenton, Mo.
LT40HG25 Woodmizer Sawmill
LX885 New Holland Skidsteer

catvet

GregS,
No problem with the name butchering.  Thanks for the info.  Looks interesting.

Qweaver, any chance you could send me the plans you have for your saw-shed?  Would love to see them.

Jerry

Catvet

Northern Vermont

GregS

Ron,
No, I did not use the post protectors for my shed.  I remembered it from another post on this forum.  To lazy to search for it.  I liked what I saw and read but I assumed they would be just as expensive as sono-tubes with out the strength advantage.  I kept the link though.  We all like using our own lumber as much as possible.  I am my best customer....   smiley_hydrogen.

I am in the process of building a pole barn and a saw shed.  The saw shed uses a 2x6 metal tube 20ft long with tube steel welded on every 2ft at a 45-degree angle.  I have the unit erected and will take some pictures soon.

Here is the welded-up tubes and some older pictures...








As for the pole barn I am done with the sono-tubes and the stainless steel connectors are ready for my 6x6s.  I am looking forward for spring to break-up.
8).

Oh yeah I almost forgot...those white barrels are indeed 55 gallon plastic barrels filled with 1/4 yard of concrete with 6x6 connectors imbedded in them.  I know funny looking  ;D.  The next picture I post will show the bottom timbers and all the rafters and purlins on.  Who knows maybe the metal roofing.  The sides now have timbers connecting the barrels (6"x10"x20').  The rafters come down and rest on the timbers.  This way I am able to roll logs under the side walls without obstructions.

Greg S

beenthere

GregS
Is your shed open beneath the rafters? (maybe you posted a design and I missed it  ::) )
What ties the timbers on the top of the side walls together, so the rafters don' push them out? 
Maybe tied on the gable ends, or are the ends open too? 
One more question, what wood are the 6x6 rafters sawn from?

Neat looking ridge 'beam' with the sockets welded to take the rafters.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

GregS

Beenthere,
I really need to take a recent picture, it would speak better than my words.  I will explain...

Yes,  it is open beneath the rafters.  The rafters are not in these pictures but they are 2x4x16' and they rest on 6"x10"x20' long timbers.  The timbers are connected to the top of the barrels.  The gable ends do have cross ties and I'm still working on bracing the structure before I put the metal roof on it and make it a giant kite.   The 2x4 rafters are red-pine.

Does this help?

GregS

I went to my new property during lunch today and took some fresh pictures of the up-and-coming saw shed.  I think the size works out to 26'x20'.












I am hoping this is a NO-TAX shed considering the foundation. 

I will be at my camp this weekend so enjoy the weekend folks and I hope you guys don't pick on me too much regarding this funny looking saw shed  :D.

Greg S

Nova

That's not funny looking, that's ingenious.  Think I may have to try to build one like it.  Of course first I have to build a kiln, then a house, then a workshop, then a barn, then my buddy's house, then his garage...  Got to love this forum, chances are if you want to do something someone has already done it and has the pictures to show you how its done.  Keep the updates coming.

Nova
...No one cares how much you know until they know how much you care...John Maxwell

GregS

Nova, thanks for the kind words. 

Sounds to me we have a lot in common.  I am in the middle of building a pole-barn shop with a full 2nd floor and the house is next year.  I think I want to slip in a kiln first as well.  It's funny how this saw-shed slipped in there.  I do not like my equipment outdoors not to mention me while I saw boards.  Hence the A-frame saw structure.  I am looking forward to nice weather there is a lot to do.

Greg S.

Nova

GregS you're welcome.  I would like to see how you finish off the enclosure esp. how you compensate for the forces that want to push the bottom of your walls laterally with racking in wind &/or snow/ice load.

I looked at your gallery, nice toys...
...No one cares how much you know until they know how much you care...John Maxwell

Radar67

Greg, how is your A-frame saw shed working out for you?

Stew
"A man's time is the most valuable gift he can give another." TOM

If he can cling to his Blackberry, I can cling to my guns... Me

This will kill you, that will kill you, heck...life will kill you, but you got to live it!

"The man who can comprehend the why, can create the how." SFC J

boardwalker

Here is a link to a site that uses post and socket system for the frame work. This leaves you with the ends of the building open clear to the peak. The widest span is 30' by however long you want to make it.

http://socketsystems.com/

Here is another site that has lots of free information on truss building and different pole barns.

http://www.lsuagcenter.com/en/our_offices/departments/Biological_Ag_Engineering/Building_Plans/barn/

Craig
Lucas 8", Laguna CL1200 copy lathe

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