trailer axels

metalspinner · February 17, 2006, 10:19:48 AM

I just came across a "deal". Please let me know what you guy's think.

A 16' trailer that has two axels with those clip on lug nuts. Are those clip on style rims legal where ya'll live? I've heard rumers around here that they are illegal. But I see a whole bunch of these types on the road each day. Will I have trouble getting it registered? The trailer it self is really nice. It has a steel bed and heavy structure. Is changing out the axels a straight forward task? Can the hub alone be changed out? These questions are piling up, I know, but I don't want to open up a can of worms.
Thanks!

chet · February 17, 2006, 10:30:34 AM

Only the old style split rims are illegal.

DanG · February 17, 2006, 10:39:00 AM

Sound's like mobile home axles to me. As far as I know, the axles and wheels are legal, but the tires may not be. They are labeled, "For Mobile Home Use Only." However, you can replace them with "Lowboy" tires and you should be good to go. They are not real high quality axels, but there are many thousands of them in service all over the place, and they usually give good service. I think they are usually rated for about 6000 pounds.

Around here, you can usually get them from mobile home dealers for a bit over $100 each, with springs and electric brakes. You can also get wheels with slightly used m/h tires on them for about $25 each. Lowboy tires will cost you from $60 to $100 each. Lots of folks run the m/h tires around here, including me. I've been doing it for years, and nobody has said anything about it.

metalspinner · February 17, 2006, 10:42:35 AM

Thanks for getting back so quick. I will stop by and take a couple of pics and see if any info is written on the rims and such. Then with pics you ya'll can tell me if it's a good deal or not.

wiam · February 17, 2006, 01:40:30 PM

I have shortened mobile home axles on my trailer. $100/axle $25/rim with tire. The dealer where I got mine let me pick. Some tires said for mobile home use only. Others did not. Which ones do you think I got? :D :D

Will

rebocardo · February 17, 2006, 02:11:52 PM

> I just came across a "deal".

How much is the deal, to be a deal?

Is it channel or angle construction on the frame?

Make sure it has brakes, if not, it might not be that good of a deal.

> two axels with those clip on lug nuts.

Not sure what those are?

> Are those clip on style rims legal where ya'll live?

Note sure what those are either.

> But I see a whole bunch of these types on the road each day.

Are you talking the 6K wheels that look like they are bolted together?

> Will I have trouble getting it registered?

Check to make sure it has a label with the OEM and ID#/VIN. Most states you will need a title unless it is homemade and registered as such.

> Is changing out the axels a straight forward task?

Yes, you can pick up or order axles at www.northerntools.com.

> Can the hub alone be changed out?

Yes, if it is a normal size. Basically just unbolt the hub, pull it and its bearings off the spindle. Measure the spindle and order another that will fit the spindle.

metalspinner · February 17, 2006, 03:43:30 PM

alright, I got some pics uploaded. $325 is the deal. I already bought it, so now I guess I need to congradulated or consoled. ;D

Here is the trailer

It has a 1/4"steel deck, 3/16" channel frame and rails

Here are the rims. I don't know what they are called. The tires have a load rateing of D, but need replacement.

Underneath. I believe the front axel has electic brakes. All wireing is cut. No lights or anything like that.

The side rails have channel that I can put uprights into. What are those called anyway? The tongue has a 2" ball reciever.

Having never owned a trailer, much less worked on one, I will need guidence from from ya'll to get this thing log-worthy.

Minnesota_boy · February 17, 2006, 04:41:57 PM

Aw Gee, I hate to be the one to tell you, but you got taken. Not worth much at all. I'll be nice though and give you $200 to get that piece of junk out of your way. ;D

Seriously, I would consider putting brakes on the back axel too if you are going to haul any amount of logs. It's nice to see stake pockets on the sides too.

Minnesota_boy · February 17, 2006, 04:45:43 PM

I can't see what is wrong with the tires with the pictures you have posted. Unless they are severly weather-checked or you plan big loads for long distances, I'd be tempted to put a little over half of the new tire money into new tires and rims for spares and run with the ones you have.

Saki · February 17, 2006, 04:48:42 PM

From where I sit, looks like a pretty good deal. It does look like old mobile home axles. As mentioned earlier, lots of advantages for that like lots of places to get spare parts, etc. I myself like electric brakes, and they are generally pretty straightforward to work on. One of the main things I will say, is make sure everything is grounded good, or it will cause you to buy some stock in tums, mylanta, or excedrin ;D. Ran into that on a 1959 camper I own. Like to never got that thing figured out. Good luck on it. Saki

PS - around here we refer to the channels you can put uprights into as
" stake pockets ". Can't tell you if that is right, but that's what we call em anyway.

isassi · February 17, 2006, 05:46:07 PM

I have seen lots of trailers built with mobile home axles and rims. One thing I would watch for is 1) There are 2 different sizes of rims out there, but they will both fit the same hub. Try to get the 15" rims and not 15.5". Lots easier to get 15 inch 6 or 8 ply tires. 2) Whatever you do, take the hubs off and clean and grease the axle bearings and be sure the seals are good and replace if not, and lube the seal with grease when re-assembling. The number one weakness after the tires blow, are wheel bearings that have never been serviced. Looks like a good trailer to me, depending of course, on what you paid.

isawlogs · February 17, 2006, 07:43:02 PM

I have a 16 foot trailer here with those rims and tires , mine though are 14.5 mh , they are not well looked at when you get stiopped :

For your electric brakes, bearings and drums , NAPA has all you need there .

This should make for a nice trailer once you get her all wired up . I see that there is already an inspector giving it the once over . :D

SPIKER · February 18, 2006, 08:48:44 PM

one more thing is these axels/tires tend to come loose & pop off if not kept care of, as in they NEED/HAVE to be torqued on proprly, which means several trips around the rim in criss cross patern using a GOOD torque wrench tighteneing each lug/washer in sucession starting at about 35 foot lbs. ifyou tighten one up all way to 100 then they will not be SET evenly around the rim. I used these to build my trailed too and have built many things using them (I have a friend who sells & moves & sets mobile homes for a living.) I get them free and do stuff for him in return.

anyhow yes there are several different sizes of rims & styles too, some of the rims will not work on all axles! be carefull which ones you get and make sure you get/have a pair of same types of tires. they make `12 ply ones now and 7000 rateing axles.

I think I have some photos of the dump trailer I built here

http://www.bright.net/~ispike

mark M

rebocardo · February 19, 2006, 12:38:46 PM

> It has a 1/4"steel deck, 3/16" channel frame and rails

Great deal, I would have bought it for that without caring if the axles were frozen solid 8)

1/4 steel deck is great!

That is a great deal and it is built right. 3/16 channel is very strong. It probably weighes at least 1,000 pounds just the trailer by itself. So you paid $0.33 a pound, that is very good. Used steel is $0.50 a pound around here so you could not built it cheaper!

My suggestion, for what it is worth. If it has a 2" ball, then it probably is not rated to carry more then 7K.

Obviously being the forestry forum you might be loading some wood in there. Buy axles from northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company that use a 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern, get brakes for both axles or at least the rear (where the weight goes when braking), go to a junk yard and buy 5 late model Ford F-150 rims (ranger will fit too). Install LTP235/75r15 tires on them which are fairly cheap. Then sell the current axles and tires. If you wanted to, skip the LT235s, the trailer P205s are fairly inexpensive. Just amke sure the max air presure does not exceed the rim rating (usually 41 psi on a ford 15").

Super deal 8)

metalspinner · February 19, 2006, 02:11:16 PM

Thanks everyone for your input! keep it coming!!

I've been wanting to get out there to work on it a bit, but the weather has not been cooperating. I'm wandering about the steel deck and if that will be taking away from potential log weight I may need.

rebocardo, I like your suggestions about the axel and rim/tire set up. The back axel is bent. Also the rear rims have quite a warble in them cruising down the road. So replacing these is in the cards.

Do ya'll think 2' stakes is about right for this little trailer? I will poke around the scrap yard this week to see what I can find.

As far as replacing the axels, the current one's are simply u-bolted on. Is this the usual way it's done?
I am a rookie as ya'll are beginning to understand, and any and all suggestions are welcome.

sawguy21 · February 19, 2006, 02:20:30 PM

Here at least, we are required to have brakes on both axles. None are required on single axle trailers. Check with your DMV. That looks like a good general purpose unit. I just finished replacing the connector to the truck on mine this morning. Wiring maintenance is frequent because of corrosion.

wiam · February 19, 2006, 02:33:52 PM

Most trailers have u-bolts. When replacing make sure any axle with brakes has a flat WELDED to the axle where the u-bolt attaches. The axle will roll even if you think the ubolts are tight. Ask me how I know this. :

:

The steel deck, if it is not diamond plate, can be slippery when wet.

Will

sjh · February 19, 2006, 09:04:22 PM

Your wobbley tires are a easy fix if not caused by the bent axle. Jack axle up so tire is off ground. Get a object(does not matter what it is) and put next to tire. Spin tire. The spot that is closest to the object needs to be tightened up. Keep this up until the tire runs true.
While on the subject there are two types of centerless hub axles. One has studs and lug nut. These are better. They have bigger bearing in them. I do not think they are made anymore.
The second one is a bolt in the shape of a lug nut. They have smaller bearings and are made pretty cheaply. I run the first type on my trailer. I have never had a problem.

isawlogs · February 19, 2006, 10:54:27 PM

sjh

It would be wise to loosen them up first ... as they are more then likely on there good and tight.

Don_Papenburg · February 19, 2006, 11:14:07 PM

One other thing to think about ; Ifit ain't broke don't fix it.

Qweaver · February 20, 2006, 01:17:25 AM

If only one axle has brakes then the axle with brakes should be to the rear. Your photos shows it to the front. This is a little hard to explain without a diagram, but when the brakes are applied on a front axle setup, it tries to transfer weight to the rear axle...which is the opposite of what we want to happen.
Quinton

Skytramp · February 20, 2006, 11:52:33 AM

The largest problem is that the axels have a lot of camber in them, and the bearings are a bit small. Those axels bearings and tires are made to make one trip and be retired. What I do is use the axel and springs, equalizers, etc and cut the axel off square and weld bearings and hubs from the rear axel of GM front wheel drive vehicles. They are readly available at most any salvage yard and will stand up to the test. The sealed bearing will fit inside the axel tube and you have plenty of heavy duty metal to weld to. You could also fabricate a plate and utilize the four bolt holes and the grade 8 bolts that come with the hub. The Cadilac and some Pontiacs have rear disc brakes and could be applied rather easily They also use 15 inch tires that could be replaced with 10 ply truck tires and haul anything that you would want.
The worst problem is that if you have four trailer tires, at least one of them will be flat every time you go to use them. They have a nasty habit of leaking around the bead. That can be remidied by installing some green slime from Wally World.
Good Luck;
Skytramp;

SPIKER · February 20, 2006, 05:38:10 PM

I forgot to mention that these axel tubes are made of some HARD stuff, cutting them in a saw is not recogmended unless you have a good supply of blades:o don't ask me how I know, (our saw worked well enough but only get about 10 cuts in these harder than standard materal axel tubes. I think it may be due to added torque on themn? we have shortened and made a lot of sliders in the past for the guy I mentioned above. anyhow keeping some camber in them is needed for weight & pulling straight cut & re-weld at you're own risk...

eh? I tried my link and clicked the tractor but I must have the photos loaded in the wrong spot.? these were/are of the dump trailer I built a few yrs back & has osme colse up of the axel/tire setup
mark M

wiam · February 20, 2006, 08:23:24 PM

I think I used about 8 sawzall blades to cut one twice. I cut out the center and used the piece to set camber when welding back together.

Will

DanG · February 20, 2006, 09:26:41 PM

This notion that m/h axles and tires are only used once is absolutely an urban legend. The manufacturors have trucks that run regular routes to buy back the axles and tires for re-use. The dealer I buy from prices them according to what the man. is paying at the time.

UNCLEBUCK · February 20, 2006, 10:45:44 PM

I made a 35 foot hay hauler from a 70 foot mobile home trailer with 2 axles . I squash it down with about 15,000 pounds and it took a few years to take the crown out of the axles but it was a good hauler and no brakes .

Murf · February 21, 2006, 03:46:00 PM

You should also change the coupler.

A 2" ball is only good for a maximum of about 5,000 pounds, that suspension will hold about double that.

You should go with a Pinle Hook too, a ball hitch is not designed to take upawrds force, like when you load the back of the trailer heavy sliding a log on or off. A mashed tailgate is likely if that happens, worse things can happen, especially if someone is standing nearby.

A pair of drop-legs or jacks at the back will help support the tail when loading too. Better safe than sorry.

eagles nest · February 21, 2006, 06:13:38 PM

i have a trailer i built in 1978 had 3 axles mobile home was rated for 18000 lb, 3 axles at 6000 lb each ,any way it has 6" channel iron for a frame uses pendle D ring hitch 2" oak decking this trailer has been liscened in mo. & oklahoma now back in mo. has made 6 trips to okc, okla & back loaded
i hauled 11 22' oak logs the other day
the trick is to grease beerings & buy low boy tires mine cost $80. each new in 2003 they are 10 ply. if you use the mh tires most are only 4 ply
they are usely off some 20 year old house & dry rotted.
the statment of only one trip is bull

metalspinner · February 21, 2006, 08:02:03 PM

Thanks everyone! The suggestions are coming much faster than they ca be implemented in the project! :D :D
I like the idea of a pintle hook. Are there pintle hook set ups to be used with the electic breaks? For the right amount of money anything is possible, right?? :

Unclebuck, "taking the crown out of the axels"; maybe that bend I see in the axel is supposed to be there? The drop legs sound good, too.

Don, I hear ya!

Guy's, my shopping list at the scrap yard is getting longer and longer. I may need the trailer just to get everything home!

SPIKER · February 21, 2006, 08:14:10 PM

Yes there is a camber welded/bent into the axels, they seem to have a slight N shape to them, about 3/4" for a 8' wide spacing. if I REMEMBER correctly. this makes the top of the tire lean out a bit and it is not 100% straight UP it leans slighty backward , (again from memory) this gives the tires slight toe IN at the front on top of the lean in at the top. it makes the trailer track better and have less scrub...

I also agree they are usually bought back for re-use not a single use axel...

mark M