Suggestions for Cutting Aluminum

[Ga_Boy]

I need to cut some Aluminum out of my shipping container.

The floor has Aluminum grates that stick up about 2 inches or so.  The grates were to allow air flow when it was a frozen food shipping container.

I want to cut enough of the grates out so the kiln cart tracks will sit on a solid surface.

The grates are about 3/16" thick and about 2 inches tall, they run the length of the chamber.  I will only need to remove enough of the Aluminum for the cart tracks to sit in.


Any suggestions on the best way to cut this aluminum out?





Mark

[Ironwood]

If I understand it right, would a "low hook angle" carbide blade on a circular saw work? Less grabby than high hook angle, but those hot little shards of aluminum get everywhere when I cut it on my table saw. Watch your eyes, this would call for the kind of safety glasses that seal all the way around so nothing could bounce up into your eyes.  Just an idea. reid

[Buzz-sawyer]

Check your local rental center......I know some guys cut several entire trucks up usung abrasive wheels...possibly on of the diamond type......

[isassi]

If you have a good skill saw, you can get a metal cutting blade for it, should slice the aluminum with no problem. I have cut 1/2" steel plate with a Milwaukee metal cutting skill saw. The blades are twice as high, but leave a nice edge.

[Dan_Shade]

Mark, a plasma cutter will do a nifty job on aluminum if you know anybody that has one.  I don't know if you can rent one or not. 

other than that, i'd try the sawzall route, but that's going to be painful.

[scsmith42]

Mark, a few comments.

I have an insulated shipping container similar to yours (stainless steel roof and sizes, extruded aluminum bottom).  The aluminum alloy used on mine is fairly brittle, and I was able to use a cut-off disc to cut a slot from top to bottom, and then simply struck it on the side with a hammer to break it off.

The bad thing about aluminum as compared to steel is that it will clog up an abrasive disc/grinding wheel, etc.  It has a lower melting point so as you're grinding it down in turn it melts to your abrasive disc, significantly slowing you down.  You can't really get a blade down between the extrusions though, nor is there much room for a plasma cutter (which would really be the way to go).

Rather than removing the extrusions, have you thought about bridging them on top with some quarter inch steel plate or something?  My kiln is in an old shipping container and the concentrated weight on the wheels punched them right through the wooden floor.  I simply ran a piece of 1/4" flat stock from end to end underneath where the wheels travel and the problem was solved.  This might be a lot easier than removing the extrusions...

Scott

[Kirk_Allen]

I have cut a lot of aluminum with both my miter saw and skill saw.  Use a carbide tipped blade and you will have no problems.  I tried metal cutting blades and they were way to slow.  Pick up a couple cheap blades at the box store and go to town. 

Depending on the aluminum you may bust a few tips off the blade.  I mostly cut 6061-T6. 

[pasbuild]

A little lemon Pledge on that circular saw blade allows it to walk right through.

[sawguy21]

I have seen aluminum cut with a reversed 80T carbide blade. Use arm, hand and eye protection.

[Dan_Shade]

i didn't think about the insulation, plasma may not be so good...

[getoverit]

I got the best and cheapest solution yet:

Buy yourself a cheap plywood blade for your skill saw, and when you put it on the saw, turn it around so the teeth are pointing backwards.

I have used this for cutting all kinds of sheet metal/ aluminum/ barn siding. It works great, and is iasy as cutting butter. You will need good eye protection since it does produce some chips, but it wont clog on the saw, doesnt grab the metal and take the saw out of your hands, and when it's all done you can still turn the blade in the right direction and saw plywood with it.

It does tend to take the set out of the teeth when cutting heavy sheet metal, but what the heck, it's only a couple of bucks for the blade in the first place.... nothing really lost..

[fstedy]

I have to agree with Reid and Kirk use the carbide blade in your Skil saw you'll get a good cut and be able to control the depth a lot better than a plasma torch. You'll need good safety glasses, long sleeves and tight fitting gloves their will be a lot of HOT CHIPS flying. Stop frequently and brush some kerosene on the blade makes it cut better and the aluminum won't stick to the blades as much. Get a blade with as many  carbide teeth as possible in a reasonably priced blade. Don't forget hearing protection it's gonna get noisy. Clamp a stright edge down to guide your saw path so you get a nice straight cut. This worked for me fine whenI was in the machine shop business.

[Ga_Boy]

Thanks to all for the good ideas.  I need to post a picture on the working conditions. 

Scott hit the nail on the head as we have the same type of container.  The grates are extruded and very close together and welded to the floor.

I'll take a few pictures with a scale to show what I am working with.  With out a picture I do not think I can describe it very well.

OK, to be honest it will give me a chance to show off my new kiln. 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)

I'll get some pictures up this afternoon........



Hey Dan,

Busy next weekend?  Got a big logging job lined up.   About 4-5 big; no I mean HUGE Black Cherry trees and a few Sycamores' that gotta come down.

Let me know if you want in.....



Mark

[isassi]

Where did you get the shipping container ? I'm still working on how I want to do a kiln.  :P

[Ga_Boy]

Where did you get the shipping container ? I'm still working on how I want to do a kiln.  :P

Hi Joasis,

I called a local company that sells used containers.  I found them in my local Yellow Pages.  The company is K&K Internationl, they are out of Baltimore, MD.

I bought 2, both are insulated with Stainless Steel walls and ceiling with an Aluminum floor.  The exterior is Aluminum with 4" of foam insulation.  The best part is the doors have air tight seals.  When stick building a kiln the doors are your biggest challenge, air leaks will kill the preformance of a kiln.  If you can find/get insulated shipping containers they are the way to go....well, for me it was anyway....





Mark

[isassi]

Thanks Mark; I am guessing it cost $2000 or more delivered. I think the guys in OKC are getting $1800 for a 20' and 2200 for a 40' standard container. I am thinking about a straight shipping container and doing the insulation myself. Then doing the solar collector panels on the roof. Only limiting factor is time and money... ;D

[Ga_Boy]

Joasis,

You are very close, they were $2500 each delivered.   For the DC area not a bad deal.  Everything here is expensive.


   

[mometal77]

Not to be late on this.  I can get whole sheets for a good price here at the local recycler's.  I once saw a neighbors friend build a river boat with an ac miller wirefeeder and a 4 1 /2 inch dewalt grinder.  With a chainsaw set up with 3/16 teeth on the chain from grizzly.   Cut and worked really nice.  The main center is in bellingham,wa.   And talk about too many toys.   I also have a lot of welding forum's if anyone wants them.   A lot of people like this forum just with a different kind of information.
bobby

[DanG]

Mark, is there a space below that aluminum grate?  If so, you may be able to just slip something under it for support, then put a track on top for the cart to roll on.  Don't know if you could do that in your situation, but it would sure save a lot of work if you could.

[sandman2234]

My concern is that you cutting parts of the floor might weaken it. They don't put unnecessary aluminum in those containers, due to weight, so most of it is incorporated into the strenght of the unit. You might drop you kiln through the floor if your not careful.
    I would go with the adding of a plate on top of the grate. If you use something besides aluminum (like steel) put something in between them to stop the corrosion between dissimiliar metals.
     David from jax

[scsmith42]

Joasis,

Having insulated a 45' shipping container, if I had it to do over again I would go with the pre-insulated, frozen foods shipping container EVERY TIME.

The construction and insulation on these is really solid (keep in mind that they are used to ship sub-zero frozen foods around the world.

You don't want to heat them over 160 because the insulation will break down.  Most DH kilns will condition below this so it should not be a problem.

The reason that I did not use the insulated container the first time around is that I could not locate a large one.  I wanted to be able to put up to 4K Bd Ft into my kiln, and that required a 45 footer.  Most of the insulated containers are 20'.

There is a wholesaler named AGA Group located in Florida that used to move a lot of containers.  I purchased 9 from them about two years ago and picked them up directly from the shipping yard.  They can also arrange delivery.  I paid $900.00 apiece for the 45' "High Cubes" (these have a 9'6" ceiling height) and $600.00 each for the 20' insulated containers.  There was a mild recession at the time and the prices were low though.

The contact at AGA Group is Mario Trevilla.  His number is 305-442-0072.

If you choose to insulate your own container, keep in mind that you will also need to insulate the floor.

Good luck!

Scott

[Ga_Boy]

That little snow storm we had go up the east cost last weekend kept me from getting the pictures.   First real snow of the winter, had to make sure we has enough fire wood brought up to the house. 

Well that and I had to mill and deliver my first order of Grade Stakes. 8) 8) 8)

If all goes well TODAY, when I get home I'll get them pictures.....