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Home building sawmill question.

Started by Shawn, February 09, 2006, 02:05:03 AM

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Shawn

When installing a clutch, should it be v-belt or chain driven? One would think belt driven provides less noise and easy to purchase.
Anyone know of a good clutch manufactor?
Change is part of the design process.

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highpockets

You'll probably find what you need at   

http://www.linnlumber.com/app/inventoryapp/sawmill_parts/inventory_view/68-0-74-1.html

This is a two belt clutch similiar to one that I have used on my 20 h.p. Honda powered mill.  Actually I bought clutch from Motion Industries and  paid about $322.00 for it.  I am almost sure LinnLumber is offering the same clutch for $260.00.   I think the actual manufacture is Noram.
Louisiana Country boy
homemade mill, 20 h.p. Honda & 4 h.p. for hydraulics.  8 hydraulic circuits, loads, clamps, rotates, etc.

Trent

I'm using an electo magnetic clutch. Just flip the switch on and off. The clutch has a brake built in too, coasts down quick when you turn it off. It came on my engine and was used to engage mower deck on riding mower.   
Can't fish, can't hunt, don't care about sports. Love to build, machine, fabricate.      Trent Williams

D._Frederick

I would go with the Vee belts, they will as absorb the shock of major load change caused by things jamming the saw. The belts will save the engine from having bearing problems or a damaged crank.

Shawn

Has anyone every purchased from this company?   www.smallenginewarehouse.com
Prices seem to be very reasonable.
Change is part of the design process.

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loudsam

Hey Shawn!  Sounds like your deep into the research for your sawmill build!!! :P I wish that I would have built my own mill.  I would have been so much better off buying a good welder, steel cutting saw, an oxy/acetyline torch, drill press, etc.  Then I would have had time to think of all the other stuff I was going to need to support the mill once it was built! :D  Good luck buddy!  I think you'll do a great job! 8) 

Shawn

I actually, it's alot of work and research. I'm planning, and your sawing. My buddy has a welder, I purchased steel cutting blades for my mitre saw ( Why is everyone laughing?) and a easy CAD program. It's not the length of the journey, but arriving thats important. Thanks for your support Doug, and everyone elses help too. This is truely a Great Forum!
Shawn...
Change is part of the design process.

Admit nothing, Deny everything, Make counter-accusations

wiam

Shawn that is where I bought my "scratch and dent 18hp BS"  When I got it there was a scratch on the screen on the flywheel and it was a 20hp. 8)  Having said that I would buy from them again.  I would go more expensive and get a horozontal shaft so I did not have to run a twisted belt.

Will

GF

Shawn,
   I also puchased a 31 hp Vanguard Commercial engine from them to put on my saw, worked out great and would buy from them again.

Shawn

How critical is having a clutch? It would be much easier to install a standard pulley. Cheaper too.
Change is part of the design process.

Admit nothing, Deny everything, Make counter-accusations

getoverit

Does anybody have a good place to buy a 3 or 4 inch,  3 groove, 12 volt electric clutch with an 1 1/8" bore?

I'm a lumberjack and I'm ok, I work all night and sleep all day

wiam

Shawn I started wth a clutch that was too small.  I now do not run one.  I think it would be easier on the starter if it was not turning everything.  Should also see better blade life.  I plan on putting one on but have not located one that I like the price, and I do not saw much.

Will

Shawn

Quote from: getoverit on February 14, 2006, 12:46:44 PM
Does anybody have a good place to buy a 3 or 4 inch,  3 groove, 12 volt electric clutch with an 1 1/8" bore?



Try these:
www.surpluscenter.com
www.mcmaster.com/
www.northerntool.com
www.grainger.com
Change is part of the design process.

Admit nothing, Deny everything, Make counter-accusations

getoverit

Thanks for the links. surpluscenter is the only one that had clutches, and none of them had pullys with 3 grooves. I'm still looking... Thanks !
I'm a lumberjack and I'm ok, I work all night and sleep all day

freddycougar


jrokusek

Shawn - I purchased a 13 HP Honda clone (made in China) from http://www.zjig.com for about $280.  I don't have many hours on it but have been pleased so far.  I have a homebuilt mill that's almost done and for the occasional sawyer might suit you just fine.  If you are seriously working at this as a profession I'd step up to something better.

Jim

wiam

I think Peterson uses a 3 groove cetrifical(sp)  clutch.  You could ask Captain.

Will

Papa Dave

When I built my mill, I used the two groove B belt 1800 series clutch and bought it directly from Noram.

They can also change the springs in the clutch to make sure it engages at the right rpm of the engine. I use an 18 hp vangard engine and the setup works great. No slipping and all you have to control is the engine speed to engage or disengage the wheels and blade. I have cut 26 inch wide red oak without any issue.

What you do not want is to have the clutch trying to engage while the engine is at idle, and at the same time, you want it completly locked up at around 2700rpms, and sawing at 3500 or so rpms

Briggs and Stratton Factory Reps told me that running the engine at 3500 to 3600 rpms was better for the engine and it would also run cooler.

DanG

Hey Papa Dave!  Good to see ya on here again. 8) 8)  I hope you'll drop by more often.  We never did have that seafood lunch we talked about.  Let me know next time you're in the area.  I'm pretty sure my ol' truck will make it to Perry, if need be. ;D

Good info on the clutch.  I wonder if the older lt30 and lt40 mills could be retrofitted with something like that.  It sure would be easier on the shoulders of the guys that have those mills. ??? :P
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

highpockets

You know what aggivates me is that Noram would not sell me a clutch direct when I approached them. I guess they were not into Confederate Money.  I'd have sent them a couple of fat hogs too.  HOw much was the clutch direct?

I was looking at a WM LT40 the other day.  I noticed that it had one sheeve for the alternator and another two groove sheeve to feed the saw.  When I put the Normam clutch on my 20  Honda, it took all of the shaft.   I kind of have ideas of adding an alternator to this engine.  It looks to me that a fellow might BUILD a sheeve to fit on the outboard side of the clutch.  Of course the bolt would take a lot of the load. 

They show the clutch as having a 1" bore.  I am assuming that this is up to 20 h.p. rating.  There is another, I think a 3700 series clutch that appears to have three sheeves.  They list this one as fitting a 1" bore and up.  I guess they supply bushings or custom build that model.





Louisiana Country boy
homemade mill, 20 h.p. Honda & 4 h.p. for hydraulics.  8 hydraulic circuits, loads, clamps, rotates, etc.

Shawn

I emailed them a week ago for quotes on a 1600 series. Still waiting. I guess their not in the business of making money. They probably have an overpaid CEO working there.
Change is part of the design process.

Admit nothing, Deny everything, Make counter-accusations

getoverit

I could use one of the 3700 series clutches, but what I really need is an electric clutch for the swingblade for safety reasons.

It looke like since noram doesnt put prices on the web that it may depend on who you are, and how many you want in order to get a price quote from them directly.

I stopped by a rather large outdoor power equipment dealer the other day and asked about buying an engine and a clutch and got an unwanted 15 minute lecture about how engineers design each engine and clutch to fit the specific needs of individual machines. When I asked if he had any in stock, he asked me for what model?  I gave up.. I'll have to find one at a "Mr Hooties" type of place or on ebay...
I'm a lumberjack and I'm ok, I work all night and sleep all day

highpockets

Getoverit,

I have thought about the electric clutches. I have a Toro zero turn mower with a 20. hp Kohler and it has an electric clutch on the blade.  The one thing I don't like is I pretty much have to have the engine wound up to engage the clutch. If not it will kill the engine.  The shock load is probably absorbed by the belt.  I am wondering how they'd work on a mill. I know folks have them but haven't heard how they work.

As for this going in and buying and engine-clutch combination, I think you can forget it.  I fought a 20 hp. Honda engine problem several weeks back.  As I'd call around to the dealers, I quickly learned that they wouldn't answer my questions mainly because they did not know. 

Back in the 60's there was always a guy in the shop that could tell you what was wrong with a machine fairly quickly.  Now days these newer folks sit at a counter and if it ain't in the computer they are lost.   
Louisiana Country boy
homemade mill, 20 h.p. Honda & 4 h.p. for hydraulics.  8 hydraulic circuits, loads, clamps, rotates, etc.

buck5611

I run my homemade mill using a 13 HP honda motor and a single belt Noram clutch without any slippage or problem.It is worth around 70. can. and it can be ordered with another set of springs that will only engage at over 2000. very satisfied for the money.

Shawn

Buck5611,
How does one purchase a clutch from them?
Change is part of the design process.

Admit nothing, Deny everything, Make counter-accusations

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