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Mobile Dimension-Sawing and Turning Large Timbers

Started by Rick R, January 31, 2006, 07:35:52 PM

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Rick R

When using the Mobile Dimension Sawmill to saw 8"x8" and larger timbers do you need to turn the log often ?
Do some mill owners use a hydraulic log turner ? Or do most of you just use a cant dog. Or maybe turning the log isn't necessary very often ?
It seems like it would be time consuming and a lot of work if the logs need to be turned without some added provision built into the log holder and frame. 

Also a question about the stationary (without the trailer) sawmill company provided end stands. The standard end stand sizes appear to be 4' high by 8' wide or 5' high by 10' wide. Would the larger width be a  benefit when set up at a some what permanite site and only moved once in a while off site.
                           The Forestry Forum has given me much knowledge but I still have many questions !
                                                                                                            Rick R 

Frank_Pender

Rick, with the wider setup you can dog in more that one log.  If you have access to the larger diameter logs, then the 5' endstands are a must, but if you are not likely to have a large number of loges over 54" inches I have found that the 4' end stands are addequate.  When I have had a few (5 or 6) in 15 years I quarter them with a chainsaw.   When sawing larger timbers I have simply rolled the log with a rolling hitch and the tractor the first time or two for turning.  I will remove what lumber can be produced and then roll 180* and remove some more.  I then place the log a quarter turn and the sawed sides 90* to the main blade.   When doing this the timbers have needed to be 28" wide and 8" thick.


With one of the MD mills I it is quipped with a hydraulic truning system.
Frank Pender

DanG

Rick, if the MD is equipped with the large, single edger, you wouldn't need to turn the log at all to make the 8x8.  To do it on a 12x4 mill such as mine, you would need to turn 3 times.  I don't have a log turner, other than a Logrite cant hook.  I never turn logs on my mill, except for flipping that bottom slab to make something usable out of it.  The Mobile Dimension Saw is exactly that, a dimension saw that is mobile.  Its intent and purpose is to produce dimension lumber.  Other things are possible, but in producing them you give up the saw's strongest characteristics.

There is nothing different about a trailer mounted mill.  The endstands are just bolted to the trailer, instead of resting on pads.  The endstand itself is just a piece of pipe.  It is threaded at the bottom end to screw into the flange on the base, and has a sheave poked into the top end to accomodate the lift mechanism.  The width of the crossfeed beam has to be wider than the height of the endstands because the sawhead takes up part of the width.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Mobilesawyer

Ok DanG

I hear you saying that with the large edger saw 8x8's can be cut in one pass but I don't get the felling that it is a seamless operation. Can the saw head draw back a 16 foot long 8x8? Can you elaborate on other potential problems?

Thanks,
Jeff

Frank_Pender

One you take the top off of a log, you then drop down to the width you wish to make the timber; 8", 10", 12".   You then move you the right to with width you desire (8"" and proceed to saw.  The timbers I have sawn have been up to 24' long and the mill has little if any trouble returning the timber to the sawyer.  Just make sure you have help, muscles or a set of rollers when that baby returns. ;D
Frank Pender

DanG

Now I didn't say you could do it in one pass, I said you can do it without turning.  Now, if you have already removed the top slab(hopefully as lumber), and the side slab(hopefully as lumber), Then it takes only one pass.  As for dragging back a 16 footer, I have my doubts.  My mill will drag a 12' 4x12, but that's the biggest I have cut, so it may do more.  Keep in mind that I'm breaking some rules because I have tightened the main drive belt way past what is recommended.

Bottom line, if you're gonna try to cut beams that size, you need to be prepared to handle them when they come off the mill. ;)
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

sawmill_john

That's a good way to tear off the teeth on the pinion gear.  Get a pick-a-roon from logrite, that helps out soooooo much I can't even tell you how much. you'll find your self using it for every thing, right frank?
DanG if I hear you having troble with your lower feed works I'm going to bring this post up, sure in the short term it's fine but right in the middle of a big job you know whats going to happen, bang! something down there will break and then you'll be singin' the blues, it takes just as much time to ignore a problem as to fix it right when you descover it. 
By the way I was in at mobile yesterday picking up some rack for my cross feed and spoke with Dawn and Leah.  Hi Dawn it was nice meeting you, you guys out there who deal with Dawn, she's in a tough position trying to learn the ins & outs of a complicated machine, one that over the years has changed so much and can be very baffilling some times. 

john

DanG

Gotcha, John.  I'll lighten up on the belt a bit.  I only tightened it out of ignorance.  Just learned recently that you weren't supposed to. ::)
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Frank_Pender

You are so correct on the Pickaroon value.  I have one for each mill.  The special green one will be coming with me to the Oregon Logging Conference in Eugene, near the end of the month. 

I mounted a two part holding device on the stationary guard for the main blade.  One piece is burly maple with a one inch hole and the other is a piece of Black Walnut with a notch, in which to rest the handle.  With this setup the pickaroon is always as a hand reach.
Frank Pender

Paul_H

If I am dragging a 6x12 x16 off of the mill I would have to drive a pickaroon fairly deep in the beam to pull on it.What do I tell my customer to fill the hole with?

John,
I know you know your onions,especially where MD's are concerned but we cut two orders of 7x10 x20' Douglas fir crossing planks a few years ago (40 mbf) and the little 127 was doing most of the dragging back.We had cut some pieces from a plastic 5 gal bucket into 8" squares and stuck them along the bottom cut as the saw ran down the log and the plastic helped against friction.We would help somewhat but expected the mill to do most of the work.I know we have the belt tighter than recomended.

I still have a pickaroon somewhere but it is only used to fend off attackers  :P
Science isn't meant to be trusted it's to be tested

Steve

Paul

I used to keep some short 1/4" diameter dowels around for just that. I often pushed back 8x10x16' Koa right onto a set of forks this way.

Steve
Hawaiian Hardwoods Direct
www.curlykoa.com

DanG

I've thought of using dowels that way, Steve, but I don't usually cut anything large enough to need them.

I keep my Logrite hookeroon handy, whatever I'm doing around the place.  It has become like an appendage grown onto my hand.  At the mill, I use it to reach in and remove falldown.  On the tractor, I use it to drag smaller bits into the loader and whatever else it gets handy for. It extends my reach so I don't have to climb through piles of brush or branches to free up whatever I'm after.  It is a great safety tool, too. It works great to release the tongs from a log without having to climb on the pile or get under the loader.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

oakiemac

I don't get the pick a roon thing either. The only way I see that helping is by driving it into the beam and pulling.
I have never had a problem with the mill not returning a beam and I have cut some 6x8's out of Oak.
Mobile Demension sawmill, Bobcat 873 loader, 3 dry kilns and a long "to do" list.

Frank_Pender

I always get in a hurry and want toget the lumber stacked and ready for the next cut. 8)
Frank Pender

Paul_H

So Frank,your lumber comes pre-drilled? Punched,not bored eh? :)
Science isn't meant to be trusted it's to be tested

sawmill_john

The other way to help the beam back is to slip the point in between the board and log, under the board, then it holds the end of the board off the log so there is less surface friction, the mill has a chance to get the board moving and after that it slides no problem.  I know sinking the pickaroon into the beam isn't the best thing but some times thats what it takes. smiley_smash
You know if it dosen't work get a bigger hammer!!!
How's it goin' Paul!

DanG

Personally, I don't expect to pump out 4x12s at the same rate as 1x4s.  If it takes a little more time to offbear them, I'm still ahead of the bf game if I'm just a little bit innovative. ;D
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Rick R

Thanks everyone for sharing your knowledge about the Mobile Dimension  sawing and turning timbers.

A question ? Can you stop the mill from returning the cut lumber. Lets say you have just cut a large timber and you don't want the mill to struggle to bring the timber back to you.
Can you just stop the return action and then take the piece of lumber off yourself ?







DanG

Yes you can, by locking the saw in a neutral mode so that it will stay at the far end, past the log.  You do this by inserting a pin behind the "go handle".  Then you can go down there and shut the engine down while you remove the timber.  Removing a large timber this way is a cumbersome operation, though.  It will be setting in the space between the track beam and what remains of the log. It is better to insert some dowels into the edger kerf to help things along, then let the saw pull it back.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

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