Is there an industrial swing saw ?

rfa · January 30, 2006, 01:13:04 PM

I like the idea of the small less expensive, thin kerf blade, and cutting and edging in one cycle. But, I don't need to be portable. and would like something heavier then the Peterson or Lucas swing saws. Are there heavy-duty swing saws ? I'm thinking making one. Any ideas of what issues I might find with gyroscopics of rotating a turnig blade ?

Captain · January 30, 2006, 01:20:19 PM

Define heavier...heavier duty?? The only thing that would make an ASM more industrial would be a set of steel log bunks. That is commercially available. Many have purchased WM bed sections for this job or fabricated from scratch.

I'm in the middle of plans for a building to setup an automated swing mill in permanently, I'm tired of working in the rain and having to come in a dark.

Captain

Buzz-sawyer · January 30, 2006, 01:27:53 PM

Quote from: rfa on January 30, 2006, 01:13:04 PM
I like the idea of the small less expensive, thin kerf blade,

Yea...but thier aint one :D :D :D :D
In order to be inexpensive , a blade losses the characteristics needed to be dependable, or thin....
I toured Menominee saw show last summer and saw a lot of blades being built....but not the one you described...or I woulda bought it

If you like circle mills the blades peterson and lucas use are pretty neat, and inexpensive.....

compared to heavy commercial blades which cost about $2000 now.
sounds like what you may want is a Mobile Dimension or a mighty might.....OR BETTER yet contact Lindsey at D&L double cut and have him make what you want.....
Are you gonna build one yourself....I have worked on severaland would be glad to help.

jpgreen · January 30, 2006, 02:26:59 PM

Take a look at Petersons' thin kerf blade. Full 6" cuts.

That's pretty awesome.. 8)

Dangerous_Dan · January 30, 2006, 07:06:48 PM

Maybe something like this?

jpgreen · January 30, 2006, 07:48:38 PM

Just when I thought it was finally safe to go back outside..

.............. :D

thecfarm · January 30, 2006, 08:04:02 PM

Dangerousdan sticks again.Boy,you gotta love this guy.I went to work and told everyone about that outdoor furnace of yours.Everyone was impressed.

Dangerous_Dan · January 30, 2006, 08:20:55 PM

Don't worry it's still safe to go outside, the mill is not done yet but I'm working on it.

fencerowphil (Phil L.) · January 30, 2006, 09:18:05 PM

Hey, rfa,

have you checked this:

http://www.brandxsawmills.com/

Phil L.

rfa · January 30, 2006, 09:56:04 PM

Yeah BrandX looks like a nice machine alot heavier. But I want to build my own What is that Dangerous_Dan thing. Thats what I'm talking about. I was thinking about a electric motor. How many horse ? What RPM and what are you useing for a blade ? Were can you get blades for these. I like it. Please tell me more.

Dangerous_Dan · January 30, 2006, 10:20:14 PM

Motor is 15 hp 3 phase.
Blade is the Simmonds 8 inch cut Lucas copy from Bailey's. $150
I currently have it geared for 2500 rpm but I'm told the lucas blade should run at 3600 rpm. Anyone have experience running this blade at different speeds? I have not even run the motor yet.
The frame is 2 inch OD .095 wall, round tubing (another great scrapyard find, 30 brand new pieces still bundled with tag, $95).
What else you wanna know??

rfa · January 30, 2006, 11:27:02 PM

How do you have the different axis rigged for movement I saw some chain in one picture ? Any automation ? What is the overall dia. of the blade and the kerf width ? I heard the bradx has holes through the blade so you can spray water on one side that will go through to cool both sides. that sounds smart.

woodbowl · January 30, 2006, 11:41:37 PM

Quote from: Dangerous_Dan on January 30, 2006, 10:20:14 PM

The frame is 2 inch OD .095 wall, round tubing (another great scrapyard find, 30 brand new pieces still bundled with tag, $95).
What else you wanna know??

I wanna know if you bent that tubing yerself or if it already had some bends in it. ;D ........... What gearbox are you using? What Ratio? When is the first test run?

GlennG · January 31, 2006, 01:30:33 AM

Dan,

Very nice, its apparent that you have put much thought and planning into your mill. I`m building a 90 degree dimensional mill, using 2 Bailey blades, 2 Kohler engines.Wish I had 3 phase power here. I hope mine turns out as nice as yours. Nice job.

Glenn

thecfarm · January 31, 2006, 10:02:14 AM

rfa,if you want to read about Dangerousdan outdoor furnace and his other projects,click on to his name on the above reply,this will bring you to his profile page.You should see Send A Message,Read Posts,click on to Read Posts,this should bring you to Show Posts,you want Page 4,post 67.Lots of interesting projects here.

Dangerous_Dan · January 31, 2006, 08:20:02 PM

Horizontal cut.

Vertical cut.

Motor and pulleys.

The vertical height is controlled by a gearbox and #40 roller chain. 1 turn of the handle is 1 inch, each spoke is 1/4 inch.

The track and wheels came from a Frick 01 carrage.

Glenn- I don't have 3 phase either. My shop has a converter but I don't know if it can run 15 HP. If that don't work plan B is to run it off a 30Kw Onan genset I use to power my current mill. If 15 HP is pleny I might try a 10 HP single phase if I can get one cheap.
Woodbowl- I used a GreenLee conduit bender. There is no gearbox, just belts. Nice and simple. I don't know the ratio off hand but 2500 rpm was my calculatd blade speed for the pulleys that are on there. First test run in a week or so. I hope. Everything takes many times longer than I think it should. Progress is slow.

getoverit · January 31, 2006, 11:06:07 PM

YOU DA MAN!!

I'd pay just to watch ya fire that thing up and try it the first time ;D

There's just some deep dark manly hormone that enjoys seeing a big pile of scrap turned into something really useful. My hat goes off to ya !

YOU DA MAN!!

Dangerous_Dan · February 01, 2006, 04:37:42 PM

Here's an update.
I tried running it with my shops phase converter (5 hp motor running as a rotary converter). No good. Motor starts to spin and breaker trips.
Plan B. Onan genset relocated to outside my shop. Motor now starts and runs nice.

jpgreen · February 01, 2006, 05:43:26 PM

That is awesome Dan,

I need that very deal to hang my Husky 3120 chainsaw from with a long bar to slab monster logs.

How time consuming is the frame to make?

rfa · February 01, 2006, 05:57:09 PM

Do you think the 15hp will be enough for hardwood ?
Did it seem ridgid enough ?
Good job looks great 8) 8)

D._Frederick · February 01, 2006, 07:03:20 PM

Dangerous_Dan ,

That is some mill, it looks like to did a lot of planning before you started to cut iron. I have a couple of questions:

I looks like you welded every thing solid and didn't allow for adjustment of the pivot bearings. How did you do the alignment to get them dead on?

The other question, I don't see any hold-downs to keep the wheels from jumping off of the track. With a 15 hp motor, if you lock/pinch the blade that motor has enough torque to make things happen. It may not be a problem, I haven,t seen Peterson address this as a issue.

That is one nice job, looks real good!!

Dangerous_Dan · February 01, 2006, 07:54:43 PM

You need to look a little harder to see the pivot adjustments.
One end of the pivot adjusts up and down with a 3/8 bolt pushing up on the flange bearing.

The other end of the pivot adjusts left and right using bolts on both sides of the bearing.

I used a magnetic level on the blade to make the initial adjustments.
There are no hold downs for the main carrage wheels or the rollers on the sawhead.
It's not done yet.
I need to add a lot of things including a water tank, metering valve and solenoid.
Some type of resetable setworks for the sawhead moving side to side.
The list goes on and on.
When I get some more things done I'll do more testing.
Thanks for the interest in my project.

woodbowl · February 01, 2006, 08:08:06 PM

Quote from: Dangerous_Dan on February 01, 2006, 04:37:42 PM
Here's an update.
I tried running it with my shops phase converter (5 hp motor running as a rotary converter). No good. Motor starts to spin and breaker trips.

Dan,
How did you make your phase converter? If I remember right ............ :

the working motor and the convertor motor need to be matched up as the same Hp. It would take 3, 50 microferid capacitors and two relays to make a homemade phase convertor. I've got the plans around here somewhere, they are probably availible on the net as well. It looks like you got it working good. What's next? Have you spotted any bugs yet? What about automation, or will you keep it manual? Congratulations for a fine achievement.

GlennG · February 01, 2006, 08:20:38 PM

Congrats Dan......Awesome! This inspires me.

What did you make the saw blade mounting flange and arbor shaft from? I`m making mine on my lathe from scratch but I looked for commecially available parts for a while before giving up and making each piece.

Glenn

getoverit · February 01, 2006, 11:00:24 PM

Dan,
I gotta admit that this is one of the most interesting threads I have seen on the forum yet. your ability to make something out of nothing just plain amazes me. I am SOOOOOOO interested in seeing how you automate that monster, and the improvements you make on it.

The only suggestion I could offer for now, humbly speaking out of fear, is to please make some sort of guard for the blade. I'd hate to see a genius trip and cut himself in half before the world can get a good look at this GREAT creation you have birthed

You da man!!

Ianab · February 02, 2006, 12:39:46 AM

Thats a good looking mill

I wouldn't worry about holddowns for the main frame, the Peterson / Lucas mills dont need them and they would be a lot lighter than your machine. If the saw does begin to lift it pulls the teeth away from the cut and the lift disapears. You might get a slight bounce thats all. The saw wont bind at the front of the cut, but it may at the back as released tension moves a cut board.
Installing a splitter to follow the blade on the vertical cut may be a good option.

Re guards: Two reasons, to stop hands and feet getting into the blade, and to catch debris that the blade throws. If you end up cutting thru a loose knot inside a log the blade can kick it out at speed. Peterson also recomend wearing chainsaw chaps / helmet / face shield as things can get around guards. I took a hit in the shin from a lump of wood that launched from my mill, left a good bruise even thru the chaps

I imagine at the moment there is a rain of sawdust when you do the vertical cut :D

But the mill is looking sweet. Not portable perhaps, but it should work well

Cheers

Ian

D._Frederick · February 02, 2006, 11:22:18 AM

Dangerous_Dan,

Thanks for the extra photo's about aligning the pivot bearings for the swing saw.

Looking over the photo's again, you did turn the saw arbor in one piece and not try to weld the saw flange on it I hope?
A weld on the saw flange will break in time resulting in a loose saw blade. On the big circle mill arbor, the fixed collar is shrunk on, no welds.

jpgreen · February 03, 2006, 09:21:55 AM

I like the adjusting bolts on those pillow blocks. Filing that in memory for future use.

Please get a blade guard on her soon Dan. smiley_angel02_wings

Dangerous_Dan · February 03, 2006, 11:24:08 PM

The phase converter was built from a 5 hp motor and a kit from ebay. The kit uses a current sensing relay for the start circuit and some capacitors and a big contactor. Cost was about $70. A great deal and works, ok. It's still not "real" 3 phase but it works.
The arbor shaft is made of 3 pieces. 1 1/4 steel shafting (the biggest standard size that fits through the spindle in my lathe), a steel disk that forms the flange and a sleeve. The collar is welded to the disk. This assembly is now bored out in a lathe for a press fit on the shaft. A 45 degree angle is machined in the face/bore of the blade side about 3/8 inch wide. The shaft is press fit and pushed through the flange 3/16 inch (thickness of blade). A mig weld is made in the 45 degree groove connecting the flange to the shaft. This shaft assembly is now chucked up in a lathe and faced off, including machining the protruding shaft down as the pilot for the blade. The weld is not taking any load, it's just there for extra assurance that nothing will move. The forces exerted on the blade do not go through a weld. The shaft fits into the blade.
Blade guard is coming along.
First you make it work, then you trick it out.

Dan out -

Fla._Deadheader · February 12, 2006, 10:15:33 AM

That,s some nifty knitting, D' Dan. Awesome project.
A couple of things from my VERY limited experience running a Peterson. Yesterday, we were sawing right along, and the blade started dragging. We were sawing up hill a little, so I leaned into the cut a little more. This is Ohoche Wood, pretty Hard. Finally shut the motor off in mid-cut. Backed out of the cut and tried again. NO-GOOD. Messed around checking all kinds of things, but, before making adjustments, I checked the carriage travel track What happened was, the board had bowed UP-EDGEWISE, (2 X 6) and lifted the carriage off the track and the wheel was off the track. Ended up burning a blue spot in the blade, right this heavy wood outt the front of the saw, that was 2" thick and just at 8" wide, X 15" long. Cold have been a really nasty bruise.

Good job on that mill. Were was a when I started bulding a Swinger :

:

Ironwood · February 12, 2006, 10:30:03 AM

All I can say is there are very few bastions of "American Ingenuity" left and that certainly happens at the Morristown address Dan lives at. Knowing Dan is fairly busy I would not encourage everyone to visit him but man if you ever get an invitiation CAPITALIZE on it.

As far as not being "MOBILE" don't count that out, how many guys have a tub grinder, excavator(s),...on and on laying out back just in case you need it. Trust me it is mobile.

Dan, I have a few extra Frick blades hanging around, care to power one up??

Reid

Dangerous_Dan · February 28, 2006, 06:55:01 PM

It's outside, leveled and making sawdust.

These are my homemade logs dogs.

getoverit · February 28, 2006, 09:23:04 PM

Thats mighty impressive, Dan !! ;)

Keep up the good work !

fstedy · March 01, 2006, 11:52:04 AM

8) 8) 8) Looks great Danny I wouldn't expect anything less from you. Do you have that big pile of logs wittled down yet?

Jeff · March 02, 2006, 10:44:06 AM

I am really impressed. Very very KEWL!

wiam · March 02, 2006, 12:36:16 PM

Very impressive mill

_grin

Will

dancan · April 30, 2006, 08:12:24 PM

I'm impressed ,very nice .
A little of topic but what kind of dump truck is that ?

jpgreen · April 30, 2006, 09:50:21 PM

That's the famous "Unimog" isn't it?

Dangerous_Dan · April 30, 2006, 10:53:52 PM

Yup, Mercedes Benz Unimog 406.
This one was actually sold by J.I. Case with a Case 580 Backhoe mounted to the rear.
6 cylinder Diesel, 20 speeds forward 8 reverse, 2wd, 4wd and difflocks - shift on the fly. Front, rear and mid PTO's. Remote hydraulics front and rear.
I bought the truck without the Backhoe and made the dump body you see in the pic.
Great truck if you don't mind going slow.

Ironwood · May 02, 2006, 06:37:59 PM

I thought he was talking about the famous F-550 with a 7.3 Powerstroke that was in the backround pulling the trailer with the cherry ppicker on it. :

Reid

sawdust · October 09, 2006, 11:36:21 AM

Wow! you are a talented builder.
Where did you get and what did you pay for the blade and shaft? If I ran across two of them my attempt at a bandsaw might be kaput.
Love the coke machine by the way!

sawdust

sawguy21 · October 09, 2006, 01:22:56 PM

Very nice. I like the log dog setup, that is slick 8)

Gustavo · October 09, 2006, 06:53:17 PM

its a different kind of sawmill
its is madeup in brasil

its very fast and is a mix betwen a sawmill and edger

two larges big saws in one side and an edger in the other side of the same axis

Gustavo · October 09, 2006, 07:00:06 PM

i had put two photos of this sawmill in my album

gustavo/jujuy argentina

Dangerous_Dan · June 27, 2007, 12:45:09 AM

Here are some updated pix.
I have switched the motor from 15 hp 3 phase to 10 hp 1 phase so it can run off the power to my shop. It's a little slower cutting but no generator buzzing in my ear burning up $7 worth of gas an hour. I think it's costing about 38 cents an hour in electricity too run.
I have added a current meter to monitor load on the motor.
Also added a knob on the front of the mill and connected it with some shafting and some miter gears that operate the carrage lock for right to left. Originally I was reaching right past the belts with no guards. This new knob and gear setup is faster and safer.

Captain · June 27, 2007, 08:25:08 AM

Looks good DD. I've got to make a visit and try that 10hp 1 phase with you. I'm trying to decide how to power my (future) stationary swingmill.

Captain

uncle john · June 27, 2007, 06:26:32 PM

I am still looking for a saw. I happen to like the band mills, but the Brand X swing mill looks interesting. Well built as well.
I sent away and received an information packet that included a DVD.
They are not inexpensive, however
Perhaps someone on this forum has experience with this mill and could share.

here is the link:

http://www.brandxsawmills.com/

woodbowl · June 27, 2007, 07:41:48 PM

Welcome to the forum uncle john. You can go to sawmills and milling and click iron inventory to see what type of sawmills and equiptment members have, including Brand X. Don't forget to include your own mill when you decide what your going to get. ;) Here's the link.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=16971.0

sawdust · June 27, 2007, 08:37:20 PM

Any one ever considered building along the line of a huge radial arm saw on a carriage? I was looking at mine last night, putting the arm on a carriage would be easy.

sawdust

Tom · June 27, 2007, 09:13:15 PM

You have practically reinvented the Mobile Dimension Sawmill. :D

Firebass · June 28, 2007, 12:45:04 AM

Quote from: Dangerous_Dan on June 27, 2007, 12:45:09 AM

Also added a knob on the front of the mill and connected it with some shafting and some miter gears that operate the carriage lock for right to left. Originally I was reaching right past the belts with no guards. This new knob and gear setup is faster and safer.

Hey DD Glad to here your thinking about safety. ;D

Do you have a scale on the mill for your side to side reference? I put a sort of set works that I use to Set board size. In this photo the right hand clamp #3 lever locks the carriage. The left clamp lever #1 sets a stop for the the carriage when moving and the middle clamp device #2 is on a scale that Is divided into board sizes. includes kerf. If you haven't already done this I highly recommend it. If you would like I'll get you a better photo. I never use a tape for side to side measurement and it is very accurate. I'm able to cut boards that are with-in 1/16".

As for a industrial production swingmill I would have to say Peterson has the closest thing.

Firebass

Dangerous_Dan · July 02, 2007, 08:51:30 PM

Mine has a homemade scale that is pushed to the right till it stops. Next release the carrage lock and move over to the size you want. Lock the carrage and start cutting. The scale has a magnet on it that holds it in place while the carrage moves. The scale also deducts the kerf of the blade each time each time it is reset.

To answer some PM's-
The blade is spinning at aprox 1900 rpm with my current gearing.

Firebass · July 03, 2007, 09:00:11 PM

My 2 cents, ;)

For those who are considering a electric motor for they're mills. I think it is important to note that the use of a electric motor is a bit differant than the use of a gas engine. Mainly because the torque of a electric motor has a much broader range. In short you can extract more hp from a electric motor than the motor can continusly handle. DD You are using a amp meter to control how hard you can push the motor without blowing fuses or burning up the motor. With a gas engine you can only get so much and theres no more. Which is why a gas engine must be bigger than a electric engine to do the same work.

Danger Dan is getting by with 10Hp electric
Firebass is using 25 kohler with same basic saw and RPM.

For what its worth :P
Firebass

sawdust · July 03, 2007, 09:32:26 PM

A question,, 10 hp single phase and 10 hp 3 phase. I suspect that the power characteristics may be different. The power output is essentially the same?

sawdust

slowzuki · November 28, 2007, 12:20:09 PM

First, has there been any updates Dan?

Second, the 10 hp single and 3 phase have the same output by definition. The 3 phase should start easier with a lower amp draw. My 10 hp single phased needed clutched to start at full line voltage. It is a split wound motor so I can start it unclutched wired as a 480 single phase then switch the windings to 240 configuration. There is some funky back current issues when doing this and I burned up 2 capacitors.

Nate Surveyor · December 01, 2007, 11:22:34 PM

I am very impressed!

This is the kind of innovation that makes me

Ponderificate! :D

Thanks for sharing your story.

Nate

Dangerous_Dan · December 02, 2007, 06:57:48 AM

No real updates to the machine.
We did move the mill about 400 feet from directly behind my shop to a more remote spot on my farm with more room for log storage and out of sight from the road.
My buddie Chris has been running the mill all summer. Whendee and I have been tailing and stacking the boards.
Also working on a shed for next to the mill to store tools and keep warm in the winter while milling but it's not done yet. I'll keep everyone updated with pics when any changes are made.
DD

woodsteach · December 04, 2007, 01:50:48 PM

Quote from: uncle john on June 27, 2007, 06:26:32 PM
I am still looking for a saw. I happen to like the band mills, but the Brand X swing mill looks interesting. Well built as well.
I sent away and received an information packet that included a DVD.
They are not inexpensive, however
Perhaps someone on this forum has experience with this mill and could share.

here is the link:

http://www.brandxsawmills.com/

Uncle John, I have a Brand X that is 2 years old and have had no problems what so ever.

Let me know if you have any questions or come to SE Nebraska and I'll show you around.

Paul

Dangerous_Dan · December 15, 2007, 07:36:10 PM

Here are some action shots milling oak. Chris is running the mill and Mike is pulling boards. I'm running the camera. ;D
We needed 10 1x6's.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nCtm03txaY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6BVAGDqCTo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9tYOIeYYEY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFhnY2A0C-M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLEiKbqB2KA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N5vWcg9_8vk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zwq8AAw3cZY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cR5nz7H9_OY

Firebass · December 15, 2007, 09:48:01 PM

Nice Dan,

It's a great thing to run a piece of equipment you built yourself... The guy that can buy a brand new mill is in envy because he can't buy one ;D... or can he?

It looks like my feed rate is about the same as yours.

Keep up the good work.

Firebass

StorminN · December 16, 2007, 02:19:27 AM

Dangerous_Dan,

Now I know where you get your name... I would never stand where you were while filming videos #5 and #6!!... At least you don't have inserted teeth in that saw blade! I've had inserted teeth, shanks, etc. fly out while cutting, never to be found again!

-Norm.

LOGDOG · December 16, 2007, 01:45:22 PM

Dan,

Great videos. Love that stuff. Couple of things though. Do you hear that twang at the end of your horizontal cut and the end of the vertical cut ? Your saw is kissing off - twanggg. It sounds like the back side of the saw is low in the horizontal and in the vertical the leading edge of the saw needs to be adjusted to the right. One more thing ... Brother PLEASE put a guard on those drive belts and over that saw (especially in it's vertical position). We want to make sure you stay around for a long time.

Great stuff though. Looking forward to seeing your creations evolve.

LOGDOG

Nate Surveyor · December 16, 2007, 02:12:32 PM

When adjusted properly, you should be able to BACK into a finished cut (Assuming the cut pc has not fallen into the cut, as it would do on the last cut), and NOT make a new path.

It is critical to get it adjusted this way, so that all cuts are uniform in width.

I got mine with no instructions. I figgered this out the long way!

N

newday89 · May 17, 2011, 09:44:14 PM

dan, is there a way to make a fixed large sawblade to run on tracks? i dont need it to swing. what about a 15 hp gas engine at 3600 rpm? can you put a large blade like ur swing saw? im cutting about !5 in diameter logs and if i can double cut them it would be better than the bandmill i have. i cant afford a 15k dollar swingmill.. any help you can give is appreciated . thanks, dan

bandmiller2 · May 18, 2011, 08:43:01 PM

Dan 89,why don't you find a handset circular mill they can be had quite cheap now.You could make a mini sawmill using a swingmill blade and a light duty carriage but you would be limited as to the size log you could mill. Frank C.

Dangerous_Dan · February 15, 2013, 08:15:16 PM

http://youtu.be/ioOJiqJ-LIE

rbhunter · February 15, 2013, 09:04:20 PM

Nice video. Looks like it is working good. I like the ride along on the swing mill.

Satamax · February 16, 2013, 12:22:43 PM

Way cool Dan.

Ironwood · February 26, 2013, 10:49:45 PM

As I always tell people if it were Planet of the Apes and I could only pick ONE person to be left with it would be Dan, he could build a lunar rocket from scraps at Conca (scrap yard near by) he would figure out how to launch our sorry butts off th planet.

Ironwood

Okrafarmer · February 27, 2013, 12:56:31 AM

Quote from: Ironwood on February 26, 2013, 10:49:45 PM
As I always tell people if it were Planet of the Apes and I could only pick ONE person to be left with it would be Dan, he could build a lunar rocket from scraps at Conca (scrap yard near by) he would figure out how to launch our sorry butts off the planet.

Ironwood

Yeah, I suppose, but only if it had to be a MAN I had to be stuck with. In which case it would be paramount to return to civ ASAP. Otherwise, I think most of us guys would be trying to think if there was any girl who had those same skills!

But I'm so glad it isn't POTA.

scsmith42 · February 27, 2013, 09:30:56 AM

Dan, that's very cool! You're the kind of guy that I wish were my neighbor, as it would be fun to bounce ideas about different ways to build things.

Matter of fact, quite a few members of the FF are folks that I wouldn't mind having as neighbors!

Okrafarmer · February 27, 2013, 11:24:58 PM

We're all Forum neighbors! 8)

tyb525 · February 28, 2013, 01:24:31 AM

It's nice to see an update after a couple years :)

thecfarm · February 28, 2013, 08:15:50 AM

Dan,it's nice to see you back. ;D I always enjoy your ideas and the way you make them come to life. 8) Don't be such a stranger.

gunracer1 · January 29, 2017, 01:23:06 PM

nice work dan, you make me want to get off my butt and build one.

dgdrls · January 29, 2017, 02:01:58 PM

Quote from: rfa on January 30, 2006, 01:13:04 PM
I like the idea of the small less expensive, thin kerf blade, and cutting and edging in one cycle. But, I don't need to be portable. and would like something heavier then the Peterson or Lucas swing saws. Are there heavy-duty swing saws ? I'm thinking making one. Any ideas of what issues I might find with gyroscopics of rotating a turnig blade ?

Only larger one I can think of is the M12 Turbo saw. FF sponsor to the left

Other option is a twin blade,
Mobile Dimension, Mighty Mite or Mahoe
The bigger version of these is the Duncan Beam saw
The smaller is the Rimu,

D

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