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Bar gate Construction

Started by Tennessee Pride, January 20, 2006, 06:30:17 PM

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Tennessee Pride

Hello everyone,

Not sure I have posted this question in the right forum. Well the tresspassers on my property finally got bold enough and tore my farm gate I had across the road down. I figured it wouldn't be durable enough but was hoping that this would be enough to keep vehicles off my property. What I need is very heavy duty "bar gate". The problem I am having is finding anyone that sells these gates or some simple plans for me to fabricate myself. The gate I am looking for is constructed of heavy duty steel. The gate has two post on either side of the road. A cross member is hinged on one of the post and swings and latches to the other. Some have a metal box that contains the lock and will prevent someone from cutting the lock. If anyone knows of any sites where I can look or has suggestions or simple plans for construction I would greatly appreciate.

Thanks
Just Trying To Learn What I Can!!

Phorester


These are pretty simple to make as long as you have the heavy equipment or a bunch of manpower to move the pieces around and to actually install it.

You probably know the Forest Service and the National park Service uses this type gate.  I'd check with these two entities in your area and either examine one of theirs or see if they have a set of plans.

Dangerous_Dan

I built a simple and heavy duty gate using a 2 foot x 2 foot x 6 foot "waste concrete" block and some fence pipe.
A metal structure with a tube standing vertical is held down to the top of the block by attaching a bolt to the rebar hook in the block and pulling the structure down tight.
A second piece of tubing that fits over the first forms the hinge.
A horizontal piece of fence pipe is welded to the second pipe at 90 degrees to form the gate.
To keep the horizontal pipe straight it is supported by some strip steel in tension.
I can get you a pic tomorrow if you want.  ;D
First you make it work, then you trick it out!

Part_Timer

The driveway to our farm down south is also a forest service road so the DOF asked us if they could put up a gate to keep vehicals off but have a lock for us on one end and them on the other.  Sure go for it.

one piece of 6" pipe on each side of the drive concreted in.  top welded shut on each side with a hole drilled in the center.  A window cut in each pipe 6" down from top for lock.   Bar with pin welded on each side 90 degrees to the bar and a hole drilled in pin for lock to slip through. 

All you do is drop the pins through the holes in the posts slide the lock through the window and slide the hasp through the hole in the pin. 

THis way both of us can have a lock so it will swing both ways.  There is no way to get a pair of bolt cutters in  there to cut the hasp off. 

I'm not sure if I have pictures but I'll look. hope this is clearer than it reads. :D :D

Tom
Peterson 8" ATS.
The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.

Tennessee Pride

Dangerous and Part-Timer,

Thanks. I am very interested in your suggestion but still can't really make the picture in my head. If you have pics then I would appreciate it. Both suggestions seem fairly easy to install. Part-timer, what allows the horizontal bar to swing? Is there some type of hinge?
Just Trying To Learn What I Can!!

Part_Timer

No hinge

The pin that the lock attaches to is about 3" long so when you take your lock off the other side you just pick up your side and the pin on the other side rotates in the cap.

I'll go try and find a pic.  It won't have the window in it but I think it will help.
Peterson 8" ATS.
The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.

Tennessee Pride

Very interesting design Part-timer. How large is the horizontal piece that spans the road? How great is the span (width of gate) and is this heavy? I only ask about the weight since my 100 lb wife will sometimes have to unlock gate by herself.
Just Trying To Learn What I Can!!

Frank_Pender

What I have done all around my  property, is route out a picture if a pistol and long with a few words. 8) 8) 8)  My bucket on my JX75 is over 6' wide.   If the tresspassers of over 6' 4", some stays out from under the duff in the forest.  The scavengers, uts and courgars can dig them up easier. ;
Frank Pender

Part_Timer

The bar across is about 2"dia.  I'm guessing it weighs about 35 lbs??  
Here is a picture for ya I hope it clears thing up.  I'm going to build one for the top of the driveway at the property line.  there is no way to pull it out just maybe sawzall through it. :-\




Tom
Peterson 8" ATS.
The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.

Part_Timer




A little bigger picture maybe it will help


Tom
Peterson 8" ATS.
The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.

Tennessee Pride

Tom,

Great pics. I think I actually get it. The 2" horizontal section is square steel, correct? The pin that is welded on the horizontal goes through the top of the 6" post has a hole drilled into the end of it to allow the lock to go through inside of the window cut out in the side. Is this correct? Is the window cut out very close to the cap? Great design Tom.
Just Trying To Learn What I Can!!

Part_Timer

The 2" on ours is round but square would be fine.  otherwise your right on target.  The window in the side of the uprights is low enough that when the lock is on the pin you can't see it in the window.  I think I can get bolt cutters on mine but it sure woulddn't be easy. 

I wish I could take credit for the design but it was made by the guy that is in charge of the maint. on the forest roads in our area.   What I like is that we have our keys and they have theirs.  If I loose my keys then I don't have to wory about catching one of them to get a new key to em and vise versa.

best of luck

Tom
Peterson 8" ATS.
The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.

isassi

Another idea they may work for you would be any size of heavy pipe, 5 inch or larger....cut into 2 posts for either side if driveway. Weld loops on both, like half a cable clamp...and then use a piece of 3/4 inch wire rope (cable) suspended between the posts. If they drive through it, it will cause significant damage. Beauty of it is when you unhook one end (end of cable attached to short piece of chain to allow padlock), you simply drop it down and drive over.

Tennessee Pride

Thanks a lot Tom. This is the solution to my problem. I would say that the 6" post allows for easy access to get the lock on and off. Thanks again Tom!
Just Trying To Learn What I Can!!

Part_Timer

I hope it works for ya.  I hate tresspassers


Franks idea is a personal favorite.



have a good weekend

Tom
Peterson 8" ATS.
The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.

bushhog

I have the same plans and drew a design up that is close to the FS type gates.  It may be overkill and too expensive to build though.  Also to support the weight I would have to go with longer/deeper posts according to some.  Hopefully this pic will come thru OK to give you an idea of my thoughts

Frank_Pender

I built a similiar gate for the Oregon 4 H Center a few years ago out of 3/8" walled pipe.   The posts were 6" diam..  I welded 1" rebar crossways through holes in the pipe to make sure the posts did not get pulled from the cement, after being placed in the holes.  I then put a larger pipe over the posts to act as a hinge.  At the top and bottom of the hinge pipes I welded some addidional hinge type pipe to have the hinge ride on, on the bottom and the top piece to prevent the hinge from being lifted off of the post.  I also placed a cap on each of the posts to prevent water from entering. 

For the actual gate I used 4" 1/4 wall with a guy support from each post.   From there I took a bit larger pipe with a slotted design in the bottom portion that would slide over the padlock location on the other half of the gate.   Again no bolt cutters can even get close to the padlock.

I am sure all of this is clear as mud? :D :D :D :-[
Frank Pender

Nailhead

Another good way, even though it's more involved, is to get your hands on a peice of 6" or 8" I beam a little longer than you want the posts to be apart. Weld your posts onto this and dig a trench and bury it.  NO WAY to pull this out, and your gate always lines up for locking.
"The Constitution does not grant rights, it recognizes them."

leweee

just another beaver with a chainsaw &  it's never so bad that it couldn't get worse.

Tillaway

Some things to keep in mind.

Build the gate ridiculously heavy, go way over board on construction and setting the gate.  The gate pictured here would not last long with the professional gate breakers that the roam the west.  Use "I" beam for the gate or a rail rom the railroad.  Pipe can cut pretty fast, I have seen gates cut in half with bolt cutters if you use pipe.

Site the gate so that getting around it is impossible, the gate pictured here would take about 10 minutes work with a chainsaw to get around.  Large boulders or very deep tank traps, ones that would require extended effort to fill work the best.  The concrete barriers used on highways seem like a good choice except that they are movable with a regular 4X4.  They are regularly towed off in these parts.

Best and American are two lock brands that hold up.  Most of the others can be snapped. 
Making Tillamook Bay safe for bait; one salmon at a time.

ScottAR

http://www.harveylacey.com/

Some of these are kinda ambitious for a farm gate but they all go together basicly the same. 
Scott
"There is much that I need to do, even more that I want to do, and even less that I can do."
[Magicman]

Dangerous_Dan

First you make it work, then you trick it out!

Corley5

Sharpen some pieces of 3/8" re-bar to a point that will puncture a tire.  You don't want it too sharp in case some idiot steps on it.  Attach these to a piece of steel or a plank and bury them in the tire tracks so just enough sticks up to do the job, fix and lock the gate, and wait ;D ;)  These should be buried in both wheel tracks for the best effect. 
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

bitternut

Here is a picture of the gate I made. I had a sleezy neighbor that logged with horses and he though my mowed field was for pasturing his horses when I wasn't there. I put up a couple of those concrete guard rails with a cable but he used the horses to pull the concrete posts out.

This gate has been very effective at keeping unwanted things out since then. It is constructed of 6" well casing posts that were concreted at the bases and filled with concrete. The gate is constructed of 2" and 1-1/2" pipe. I added a u-shaped  piece that is hinged on one side and drops over the pipe to keep the two sections aligned. This is then locked with a large padlock and some 3/8" grade 80 chain. A section of tractor tire inner tube was attached with a hose clamp to cover the lock and keep it dry. Has never froze up on me yet.

Neighboring horse logger has since moved away but I think the gate will stay just in case he ever moves back into the neighborhood.





Tennessee Pride

Thanks to all for the good info. Corley5, I am with you!!!!! I would love to find the person responsible for busting in my other gate. >:(
Just Trying To Learn What I Can!!

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