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Homebuilt band mill motor mount to engage the belt or an idler pulley need input

Started by HOGFARMER, January 17, 2006, 06:30:58 PM

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HOGFARMER

Got another question.  I am ready to mount the motor on a rakes style bandmill.  His plans call for bolting the motor to a plate and sliding the plate to loosen and engage the blade.  I am using an 18 HP Briggs engine and wonder if I would be ahead to mount an idler pulley on a arm which could pivot to engage the blade.  Please give me your opinion and the reason for it.  As always I thank you for your input.
Manual LT-30

Larry

That's exactly how my Kasco operates.  16 hp with a lever that operates an over center idler pulley.  Have to adjust the pulley tension maybe once or twice in the lifetime of a belt.  Simple, cheap, and more important reliable.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

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woodbowl

Quote from: HOGFARMER on January 17, 2006, 06:30:58 PM

His plans call for bolting the motor to a plate and sliding the plate to loosen and engage the blade.  I am using an 18 HP Briggs engine and wonder if I would be ahead to mount an idler pulley on a arm which could pivot to engage the blade. 

Some WoodMizer models do that except it is not a sliding plate, rather a tilt of the motor to tighten and engage the belt. The higher HP models use a centrifugal clutch.
Full time custom sawing at the customers site since 1995.  WoodMizer LT40 Super Hyd.

jrokusek

I built mine with a lever and an idler.   You can look at the pictures here:  http://diybandmill.com/index.php?set_albumName=album10&name=Gallery&include=view_album.php&page=2

I'll work at copying the pictures to my Forestry Forum Gallery in the next day or so.     The lever is connected to the rusty steel plate.  The idler is attached to the steel plate and that whole steel plate/idler assembly rotates.  It was one of things where you look at a pile of leftover parts and start connecting things together.  It does seem to work just fine....but the mill isn't into production yet so we'll see how it works over time.  I need to finish the last blade guide then can iron out the bugs (if any).  :D

highpockets

I started out using a on my mill.  I was running dual "B" belts with an idler.   Although I added a shroud around the belts at the engine, I never was able to get the thing to totally disengage.  The stiff belts seemed to ride the engine pulley just enough to make the blade turn.  I finally broke down and bought a centrifugal clutch which I really like.  We also added a solenoid off a Kabota Diesel engine to controll the throttle.  Now at the finish of the cut,I can flip a switch and idle everything down.  We have a lub valve that shuts off at the same time.
Louisiana Country boy
homemade mill, 20 h.p. Honda & 4 h.p. for hydraulics.  8 hydraulic circuits, loads, clamps, rotates, etc.

woodbowl

Quote from: highpockets on January 21, 2006, 07:00:50 AM
.........  I finally broke down and bought a centrifugal clutch which I really like.  We also added a solenoid off a Kabota Diesel engine to controll the throttle. 


HP, how did you go about determining how to match up your motor to a clutch? .......... I burn out a lot of solinoids, but I use regular Ford starter type. Is the kabota more HD?
Full time custom sawing at the customers site since 1995.  WoodMizer LT40 Super Hyd.

HOGFARMER

Thank you all for your input.  I am going to try using the belt and an idler pulley for a clutch.  Again thank you I really appreciate this forum and the people on it.
Manual LT-30

chainsaw_louie

Did you see the comment on the linked site from Bill Rake's page, it talks about binding on the post when a heavy engine is mounted all the way on one side:

"I used a 13 HP Industrial Kohler on this saw that weighed in excess of 100 lbs. Having the motor mounted all the way over to one side caused binding on the post when lowering or raising the saw-head. (saw-head assembly wanted to cock sideways slightly) So I had to add a mechanism to level the saw-head. It glides up and down nicely and is kept level via this mechanism."

http://www.smnet.net/pmwinston/Mill2/2ndsaw.htm

HOGFARMER

I was worried about binding or wear between the tubes so I used oversized tubing allowing aout 1/8" clearance between the tubes and used six similar devices so that the head moves up and down on bearings and can be adjusted.  Now I don't have to worry about wear between the tubes or  sawdust getting in there and jamming it.  I hope this works well.
Manual LT-30

Fla._Deadheader


We built ours with the tilting the engine feature. We used a double ended Heim Joint with right and left hand threads. Just adjust the length of the rod a bit and keep sawing.
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

highpockets

Woodbowl,

Yes, I think that the Ford solenoid is a high current draw type and not designed for constant duty.

The solenoid I am using came off a Kaboto diesel engine.  Normally there are two on them I think. Mine was an engine that powered a truck mounted refrigeration system.  Therefore all electric controls.

ONE PROBLEM  that I am thinking I am seeing is that our Honda (20 H.P.) has a 3 amp alternator.  I can't remember offhand but when I checked the solenoid I believe it drew some 3 amps.  I had decided it was over powering my alternator but yesterday we sawed most of the day and did not run the battery down.

We did go the junk yard last week and got a seat out of a Lincoln Continental.  The seat itself has three motors in a single case that controls the seat's movements.   We cut the three motor system into with a band saw and just salvaged one motor and gearbox. 

The only thing with any of these motors is that one needs to put a limit switch on each end of the stroke.  Since the motors are permanent magnet motors, you reverse the direction by changing polarity.  The problem is that if you install a limit switch, you have to put a small diode across the switch so it will go in the other direction when the switch is reversed.  Not a problem.  I can help you with this if you need me to.  Just email me.







 
Louisiana Country boy
homemade mill, 20 h.p. Honda & 4 h.p. for hydraulics.  8 hydraulic circuits, loads, clamps, rotates, etc.

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