Sawin Cedar

[Gasconman]

Hello folks,
           I'm new here as you guessed. I'm sending in an order for a Norwood 2000 tomorrow morning. I would like to hear from people who have sawn cedar and if there is a certain type of blade they like to use, lube mixture ect. This is a one man operation with about 30-40 acres of free cedar to cut so I'll be there for awhile. Thanks for any reply

[Tom]

Unlike roses, Cedar isn't cedar isn't cedar.......etc.

You need to identify the species or something close anyway. 

I cut a lot of Southern Red and Eastern Red Cedar.  They are actually junipers and highly aromatic.  They cut as if they are soft but are actually fairly hard but brittle.  I break a lot of blades on it because I tend to over extend them.  The wood comes apart with a dull blade and I forget to change it until it's too late.

The rule of thumb is "the softer the wood, the more aggressive the blade."

That doesn't take into account that some hardwoods are soft and some softwoods are hard.  It also doesn't take into account the problems that can be caused by the hardness and grain of knots.  Knots create a crosscut situation and sawmill blades aren't as friendly to that as they are to ripping.  Cedar is known for containing knots and can cause some problems.  Basically, you can cut cedar with most any blade.  I use 1 1/4 blades with 7/8 pitch and 13 degree hook most of the time and don't change for cedar/juniper.

The reason to be aware of the different cedars is that my juniper cuts different than Arborvitae (Northern white) or western cedar.  There are other cedar-like woods that may saw differently as well.

Your standard blade, and one that is usually provided with the norwood 2000, is like mine but with a 10 degree hook.
You should not have any problem with it.  Experience with your mill may have you fine tuning with another configuration some time.   

[Gasconman]

Thanks for the reply. It's Eastern Airomatic Red Cedar??? I have noticed some of them have limbs all the way to the ground and some don't have limbs for a ways up the trunk? Yes I know you have to be crazy to cut it but I hated to see it bulldozed.

[Tom]

No you don't.  You don't  have to be crazy.  I love the wood.  It's not that hard to cut.

I have cut a lot of like cedar, knots and all.

Working in Cedar is an art whether you are the sawyer or the furniture maker.  Don't approach it like you would a piece of Oak or Walnut.   Every cut you make on Cedar can produce a usable piece of wood.  Don't be in too big a hurry to edge it either.  One edge is good because it allows you to use a table saw to edge the other side.  Natural edges are prized by cedar workers who build Rustic stuff and know their wares.

I had a friend, deceased, who I have talked about several times on this board.  When he finished with a cedar tree, there was hardly enough of it left to build a little fire.   He used almost every clear board and slab.  There are techniques that will allow slabs to be used for picture frames and trim.  knots make drawer pulls.  Sawdust keeps fleas off of the dog and makes sachets that will earn $1 to $3 dollars for every handful you sew into a cloth bag.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=5928.0

Use your imagination.  Don't throw it away and don't let others convince you that it's waste.

Do use a dust mask and bath good after a day of sawing or woodworking.  Don't breath the dust, especially from sanding.  Cedar that gets into your lungs won't rot and you will carry it a long time the same as cigarette smoke. 
Emphysema can be a long term result.

[Gasconman]

Thanks for the reply that really lifted my spirits. I'm sure my hounds will appreciate the shavings. I'm going to take my time putting the mill together when it arrives. I have about 5 logs setting in the yard to play with and about 25-30 cut on the man's farm. The saches are a good idea.

[isassi]

I too love cedar...take care when you get logs to check for metal in any that have straight clear trunks.....If they come from around a house or barns or fence rows, there is always the chance someone used them for a fence post or clothes line pole, what have you. I love the cedars that have been trimmed, but any are great...and cedar here in Oklahoma is fetching $3.50 and up a board foot...Have fun with the new mill....I hope to get a bandmill soon also..

[Bibbyman]

We've got cedar growing on trees here!  :D 

Tips,

Saw from the little end to the big end whenever possable.  Because the blade will tend to follow the conture of the angle of the knots if you saw from the big end to the small end.

We like to let the logs dry out a month or more before sawing.  This tends to dry up the sticky sap that will otherwise stick on the blade - and everything else.

We use just a standard all-around blade for hardwood with 10 degree hook angle.

Welcome to the Forum!  8)

[Gasconman]

Thanks for the replys. I hope to turn this into a fulltime adventure in a couple of years. All the cedar I'll be cutting is in pastures away from fences. I still have a cheap metal detector. The gentleman wants the cedar gone to make more pasture for his cows.Joasis hope you get your mill soon. Bibbyman what about lube??Is water &  soap O.K.

[Bibbyman]

Thanks for the replys. I hope to turn this into a fulltime adventure in a couple of years. All the cedar I'll be cutting is in pastures away from fences. I still have a cheap metal detector. The gentleman wants the cedar gone to make more pasture for his cows.Joasis hope you get your mill soon. Bibbyman what about lube??Is water &  soap O.K.

Water and Pinesol

[dail_h]

   Congrats on the new mill,I saw with one every day.and love,well most days. Sawed cedar for a customer last week,and he saved ALL the sawdust.I use 1.5 .042 blades,and kero and bar oil 10 degree I think