Novice chainsaw user needs help

Green Valley Cat · December 21, 2005, 01:33:00 PM

Hello all.

After the big ice storm here in North Carolina we have several medium and large trees and branches that have fallen on our property.

We bought a Poulan Pro 18 inch chain saw to cut them up but we are having problems.

At first the chainsaw cuts great but after we cut up one or two trees the chainsaw doesn't cut as well so we have gone and bought two chains.

It cuts great after we change the chain but then after 1 or 2 trees it fails to cut well.

1. Is it normal for a chainsaw chain to go dull after 1 or 2 trees? Maybe we
just need to sharpen the chain.

2. Is there a clear diagram anywhere that show you specifically how to
sharpen a chainsaw chain and what part you are supposed to file? The
diagram that is in our instruction book is not clear.

I'd appreciate any feedback you all might be able to provide me with.

Ianab · December 21, 2005, 01:39:08 PM

Hi Green

Quote. Is it normal for a chainsaw chain to go dull after 1 or 2 trees? Maybe we
just need to sharpen the chain.

Chain will get blunt VERY fast if you get it in the dirt while cutting, try and avoid that. Otherwise, yes it needs sharpening. A file / guide will let you touch it up in the field, with a bit of practise.
I'll see if I can find some better instructions online for ya.

Have a read of this.
http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/SharpAdvice061301final.pdf
It refers to Stihl saws, but the theory is the same for any saw.
I assume you have a file and sharpening quide? If not, thats what you need.

Alternatively you can take the chains to any saw shop and they will sharpen them for you. While you are learning to file it may be a good idea to do that after a few sharpens anyway. They will machine grind them back to the correct profile if your hand sharpening isn't quite perfect ;)

Cheers

Ian

Cut4fun · December 21, 2005, 02:54:59 PM

Chain care tips. http://www.chainsawspecialists.co.uk/chain_sharpening.htm

Chris J · December 21, 2005, 05:47:03 PM

I don't have the link, but the Oregon site has a lot of useful information.

beenthere · December 21, 2005, 06:10:49 PM

Quote.......At first the chainsaw cuts great but after we cut up one or two trees the chainsaw doesn't cut as well so we have gone and bought two chains.............
It cuts great after we change the chain but then after 1 or 2 trees it fails to cut well.
1. Is it normal for a chainsaw chain to go dull after 1 or 2 trees? Maybe we
just need to sharpen the chain.
..................I'd appreciate any feedback you all might be able to provide me with.

I'd also suspect the chain is getting in the dirt, either when finishing the cut or by contacting dirt in the bark of the log. Just momentarily touching the ground will quickly take the cutting edge off the teeth. When that happens, getting out the file and touching up the teeth is best. I usually touch up the teeth after every tankful of fuel, just to keep a good edge. However, when cutting in snow, sometimes the ground is touched and the dulling effect on cutting wood is immediately seen. That is the time to quit sawing and file the teeth again.

With practice and experience, you will begin to notice ways to avoid the dirt as well as tricks to cut logs on the ground without having to touch the dirt. Sometimes experience takes its toll on the chains that you have.

rebocardo · December 21, 2005, 07:03:39 PM

I usually change chains after two to three hours if I think the chain is getting dull. Sometimes because the tree is hard (hickory or some oaks) the chain might not stay on for even an hour. It is quicker to change a chain then suffer with slow (and dangerous) cutting or overheating the bar with a dull chain.

Plus, it gives me an chance to flip the bar over, clean out udner the cover, and quickly clean the groove and oiling holes in the bar if they look blocked (less oil = hotter bar).

macpower · December 21, 2005, 07:59:31 PM

GVC
You need a lesson in chain filing!
You can kill a chain in less than one cut. Do you have a file and a guide? If not you need to get to a saw shop and get one for your size chain. Also any good shop will give you a quick lesson in how to use it. They also can grind your chain back to factory specs after you have filed it a few times, and dress your bar as needed.
One of the things to look out for is the size/type of chips the chain is throwing. If you start to see sawdust instead of chips, you are dull. Stop and touch it up, or switch to a sharp chain. If the chain starts to cut to one side, you need to get the cutter top plate angle set and the rakers set. Stop cutting or you will ruin your bar.
A dull chain is the most dangerous situation you can create with a chain saw! It will grab and it will kick!

leweee · December 21, 2005, 11:48:41 PM

Quote from: Mucha_Nada on December 21, 2005, 05:47:03 PM
I don't have the link, but the Oregon site has a lot of useful information.

LINKhttp://www.oregonchain.com/tech/manual_maint.htm

jon12345 · December 22, 2005, 12:04:58 AM

I have the same saw I think and also the same problem, and it is very touchy as far as tightening the chain as well. One time the chain came off and almost got the boys :-[

Green Valley Cat · December 22, 2005, 10:26:20 AM

Thanks for all of your help

Yes my father was putting the chainsaw in the dirt. He was also cutting up old dead wood tree stumps.

I will go and get a proper file and guide.

The links are great. I really appreciate your help.

beenthere · December 22, 2005, 10:57:24 AM

Quote from: Green Valley Cat on December 22, 2005, 10:26:20 AM
.......Yes my father was putting the chainsaw in the dirt. He was also cutting up old dead wood tree stumps.........

Yup, very bad for sharp teeth. Now, if the problem persists, then your father needs to get assigned to the sharpening routine..

One of a few reasons I am the only one who runs my saw. At least you know now it isn't the saw and it isn't the chain that is at fault for not cutting well.

VA-Sawyer · December 22, 2005, 11:19:16 AM

I have always believed that folks will take better care of equipment, if they have to fix it themselves when it breaks. It is even more true when they don't get paid for time spent repairing something they caused to fail.

thecfarm · December 22, 2005, 11:56:49 AM

I won't let no one use my chainsaw.I can dull it fast enough without anybobys help.

Ron Scott · December 22, 2005, 12:50:15 PM

Yes, "assigning " a saw to the person using it as their "personal" saw will keep it running and working without down time as will be experienced when a saw is allowed to be used by anyone at anytime.

I always painted and recorded the number on our saws and assigned each to a specific crew member to be responsible for. They soon became accountable and always had a "working saw". ;) That became more productive than always having "down time" and a saw being worked on.

Cut4fun · December 22, 2005, 03:18:39 PM

Get yourself about 5 good chains. Then find a shop that will sharpen them for you when they are beyond your hand file touch ups. Most shops get somewhere between $3-$5 a chain on a 2-3 day turnaround. Windsor chain is my choice of chain. Alot say Carlton is good too. Oregon is my last choice.
But any SHARP chain will do. Good luck.

Kevin · December 22, 2005, 04:25:17 PM

Who's making Windsor chain these days? 8)

Cut4fun · December 23, 2005, 01:54:20 PM

Quote from: Kevin on December 22, 2005, 04:25:17 PM
Who's making Windsor chain these days? 8)

I havent a clue, but it works alot better for my homeowner duties. Cuts faster and stays sharper longer, so it seems. http://www.windsorforestry.com/products/saw_chain/sawchain.shtm