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blade setter

Started by Noble_Ma, September 26, 2002, 06:10:41 AM

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Noble_Ma

I'm sure at some point this subject has come up.  I did search the knowledge base for it but couldn't come up with anything.  I have a blade sharpener made by Baker/Enercraft.  It's not a profile sharpener.  It can sharpen the blade right on the mill and works pretty slick.  The only thing is I'm losing set in the blade after 4 or 5 sharpenings.  So the big question is, what is the best setter for the money?   The prices range from a few hundred to around a thousand.  I know you usually get what you pay for but I'm not sure I need to spend the upper end prices for something that is functional.  Speed is not an issue as I'm a part timer right now.  I know a lot of you guys use the resharp service from the "Orange guys" but any and all opinions will be appreciated.

Noble

Tom

I prefer the style of setter like WoodMizer and Cook Saw make.  you set one tooth at a time, on one side of the blade, flip the blade, and set one tooth at a time on the other side.  They hold the blade very firmly and the upside is that you are adjusting the tooth against a dial measuring device that allows you to be as accurate as you want.

FeltzE

I've got 2 different setters, one is a "Cat's Claw" from cooks and the other is a Dino Setter

I like the Dino setter for typical blades including Lennox Woodmaster III's that I primarily use. The Cat's Claw seems to work better on the real thick blades like Woodmizers Heavy Double Hard Blades.

I occasionally sharpen for other sawyers and the Dino produces a very uniform set at a good rate of speed.
:0

I've since looked at several different ones at the trade shows and none of them are cheap cose wize that is. But I really havn't seen any that I would not recommend.



Good Luck to ya on what ever you use.


Eric ;D

Billy_Jack

I am working on set but I welded it up backward,it will set both teeth . My blade sharpener cost 29.00 to fab
Billy Jack  ;D

smwwoody

Tell me more about this sharpener billy jack
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Fla._Deadheader

ME TOO !!  Us back yard injunears likes to get zasperated buildin their own stuf-=-
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Larry

Here is a picture of my setter for all you "back yard injunears ".

Larry

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Fla._Deadheader

That looks good! Thanks. Anybody use the double tooth setter by Timberwolf? Looks like a good design??  Harold
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Dugsaws

I use the Timberwolf setter sets both teeth at the same time. It takes a little time to make sure you have the correct set to start, but once you get it right i can set my 15'8" band in about 2 1/2 to 3 minutes.The cost is around a grand for it.
Doug

Noble_Ma

Dugsaws,

I got the video for that setter.  It sure did look slick!  The price was a little steep for me.  I like Larry's homemade setter.

Larry,

Does your setter bend the whole tooth or just the tip?  I've seen both styles.  It seems to be as simple as it gets.  Is the set consistent?

-Noble

Bibbyman

Back when I was setting teeth,  I thought it would be great if the push rod was operated with a foot pedal instead of a handle - maybe like a gas pedal in a car.  That would leave your hands free to move the blade.  Your foot could always be on the pedal.

Another thought;  all the setters I've seen are designed with the blade the wrong way up.  I was always adjusting the post height to get the tooth to ride the right height.   If the setter were designed with the blade tooth side down,  then the setter rod would always be in the same relationship from the tip of the tooth to the place it needed to check or bent.  It would not matter if the blade was 1-1/4", or 1-1/2" or had been sharpened one time or 20.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Bro. Noble

All my blades have been sharpened the same no. of times so I don't have to do as much adjusting on my sharpener or setter.  

When I started using .045 blades, I put a cheater pipe on the handle of my setter.  It makes it easier to do an accurate job and is less tiring on my arm.

Noble
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Noble_Ma

I guess I'm going to invest in a setter, I just haven't figured out what one???  My boss, The Wife, says I need to get a postive cash flow going before I spend anymore!!  I keep telling her, "just this one more thing honey"!!!  I guess I need to do more homework.  I've looked on Woodmizer's page and didnt' see anything about their setter?  Do any of you guys own one?  

Bibbyman

If you look under the Products - the Accessories, they list their blade maintenance package.  It tells a little about the setter and has a picture of it inset in the picture of the sharpener.   I'm sure they could sell just the setter through their parts department.  

Used setters should be available as many of us have went to using Re-Sharp.  (I sold my sharpener and setter.) You could post a listing under Wanted on this Forum and see if anyone has a used one.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Tom

I have two WM setters, one in the barn and one on the truck.  I have two of their sharperners also and was going to put one on the truck but got a bad case of 'procrastination' and it never happened. I wouldn't think of selling any of it though, it's pulled the fat out of the fire to many times

Noble_Ma

Bibby,

I did see that setter after you mentioned it.  I think I'll give them a call and see what they say.  Back to the search!!

Larry

Noble_Ma,

On my setter the pushrod has a bevel on the end to push the tooth over.  I also built in a  adjustment for the width of the band so you can either set just the tip of the tooth or all the way down.  I have tried different ways and now I set the teeth just like WM does.

One thing that you will find out after setting different makes of bands is that they are not all created equal.  The Simond Red Streak has the most temper in the teeth and will really test your muscle.  If you try to push the set out to much on them you will break the tooth off.  WM bands are about in the middle of the pack.  I really do not do enough sawing to say that one band is a whole lot better than another just different.  Right now I am using Lennox Woodmaster C.

Larry
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Larry

Noble_Ma,

I forgot to answer your second question.  The set is very consistent.  When I frst made it about 8 years ago I ordered some new bands and put a brand new one on the setter to just see where the set was at.  One side was set 3 thous. more than the other side so I called the manufacture and told him.  They refused to believe me so I sent the bands back.  I got a call a couple of weeks later and they told me I was right and told me some whoop-la that they set the bands in a straight line and after they cut the band to length and welded it in a circle the set changed.  Not going to name the manufacture name as whatever the problem was they corrected it and there bands are just fine now.

Larry
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Tom

An adjustment on the "break" handle on my wood mizer setter will make the handle easier to push.  There should be no need for  too much effort to be spent.  

Something to look for if the tooth is hard to push or is breaking.     The Tooth should be held in the clamp at the base of the tooth not down in the back of the blade. The "hammer" should make contack with the tooth as close to the top as possible, without slipping off of the bending tooth, and centered in thetooth.

What I aim for is to bend the tooth about half way between the tip and the gullet. If you are trying to bend the tooth by pushing too low on it, then you are bending the back of the blade not the tooth.  The clamp must be good and tight on the blade too.  I let my setter get dirty sometimes and the clamp quits holding the blade firmly.  when this happens the whole blade is tilted over before the Hammer ever begins to bend the tooth.

If your hammer is off center on the tooth, it will twist the tooth rather than bend it straight over.  That changes the tooth face angle drastically. ( If you set and then sharpen, you an correct this easily)


That's  a good looking contraption you built, larry.

Noble_Ma

All good info guys thanks.  I'm still looking and talking with people about the pros and cons of each setter.  I have a cousin who is a machinist and could make one for me if he had one to look at.  I've read or talked with enough people who have made their own to see that it is a viable solution.  The good thing about my cousin, is that money never changes hand.  I do woodworking and carpentry for him and does machanic and metal work for me.  Besides, I'm not sure the "boss" would sign the PO for the setter in the first place!!! :-/  

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