Foley Edger

highpockets · December 07, 2005, 05:35:39 AM

A friend of mine bought an old Foley Edger Model 802-0442 that has never been used but was not maintained very well, ie rained on. Several years ago I built him a bandsaw mill so now he wants me to mount and power this edger.

I got to looking at the unit and it appears that the input rotation will have to be counter clockwise. That is not the problem. The way the blades are mounted they will be approaching the wood from the botton or up-cutting. With only the top cover with it's roller to hold the wood down, it seems that there is no way from keeping the wood from raising off the teeth and flinging the cover open, etc. Does anyone have one of these or do you have a photo of something similiar?

Fla._Deadheader · December 07, 2005, 07:39:38 AM

Maybe a dumb idea here, but, if you turn the shaft, so the rollers are pulling the board through, which way do the blades turn ?? Maybe they are in backwards ???

DanG · December 07, 2005, 08:39:06 AM

Hmmmm. It seems to me that if the blades are below, and everything is oriented correctly, the portion of the blade that is doing the cutting will be on its downward arc, tending to pull the board downward.

getoverit · December 07, 2005, 05:56:00 PM

Let me preface this with the fact that I know absolutely nothing about edgers, except that they have 2 sides. (in and out)

Perhaps the power side is just a left handed one instead of a right handed one, and you are feeding it from the wrong side?

In other words, if you powered it clockwise and fed it from the other side, what would happen?

dail_h · December 07, 2005, 07:55:44 PM

Ya got somethin turned wrong ,or backwards or something. It's 'sposed ta cut down,wif the top roller holding it down on the feed roller. I think Foley just used a sproket for the bottom infeed roller.That may be what's throwing you off.

D._Frederick · December 07, 2005, 08:02:54 PM

With small edgers, the power driven rolls feed the board in to the saws and the saws rotate so that the saw teeth are cutting through the board from the top down. If this edger is not cutting this way, it is set-up wrong. This edger is shipped as a kit and must be set up. See if you can turn things around to get it to feed correctly.

UNCLEBUCK · December 08, 2005, 02:42:06 AM

I will take pictures for you . I think I have what youre talking about . I will post them here tonight like around by 7pm .

highpockets · December 08, 2005, 05:57:57 AM

dail_h I think you are right in saying something is turning wrong. First off this thing is laying upside down out at my friend's place. I haven't mounted it in the correct position yet. The power input shaft already has the pulley on is so it can only be fed from one side. The other side has the power shaft protruding and this is where the belt driven (board drive) reduction is fed from.

One one end are 2 rollers. One drive roller with serrations along it, and an idler roller which is floating on the top cover. I ASSUMED THIS WAS THE INPUT SIDE. The other side has the 2 sprocket looking gizmoes that I thought assisted in getting the wood OUT of the machine. On this (sprocket) side there is a plate that I figured was an antikicker plate.

If we assume that the sprockets are the input side, then the blade would be at the right rotation. What bothered me was there is no roller adjacent to the sprockets to bind the wood and hold it going into the blade. In other words it seems that one has to physically push the board in, start the rip and only after the board is in far enough (past the saw blades) will the other (2) rollers grab and assist in moving the board. In other words there is no pinch roller going in. My 20" Grizzley planer has pinch rollers and I figured this edger had to do the same thing.

woodhick · December 08, 2005, 02:27:18 PM

Highpockets, The side with the two rollers is the out side. the input side only has two small "sprockets" to pull the wood in with. There should be a steel "door or flap" on the infeed side to prevent kickback. I have one of these edgers although I haven't got it up and runnig yet. If you need it I have a manual for it I could copy it and mail it to you. If so give me your address and I will get it to you.

highpockets · December 08, 2005, 02:32:25 PM

woodhick,
My appreciation is only exceeded by my good looks. Just joking, I am old and wrinkled. My address is Dick Shuford, 6638 Hwy 174 East, Pleasant Hill, La 71065. I would certainly appreciate and I will pay whatever expenses. Do you have pay-pal?

UNCLEBUCK · December 08, 2005, 08:45:04 PM

I can put more pics if you need ok. I just learned how to hit the enter key to put a nice space between my photos.

It was very cold this morning and the snowsnakes were in full force so I got the heck out of there but just let me know if you want more pics and I hope you get your edger set up .

Kevin_H. · December 09, 2005, 09:21:29 AM

I think I have a different version of the same thing, here is a pic of my timberking 802, it has powered infeed and outfeed, we set it up with 3 blades to rip stakes

I dont have the sprokets but the yellow kick back fingers do a good job of holding the board down to the infeed roller.

highpockets · December 09, 2005, 06:53:13 PM

Thanks gentlemen,
I can get it now. I just did not think the sprocket type teeth were enough to infeed with. My friend has a 2 cylinder Wisconsin TJD I believe it is. This is what he wants me to use to power the edger. I am not sure the h.p. rating on this engine, nor if it will pull the unit. I notied that one of yall have what appears to be a four cylinder engine. We got one of them too but it needs a little attention. What do you think?

Fla._Deadheader · December 09, 2005, 07:58:48 PM

Might work with 1X stuff, but, highly doubtful with 2X unless ya keep the teeth REAL sharp.

Kevin_H. · December 09, 2005, 08:44:23 PM

We are running a 10 hp single phase 220 motor on ours, It does a fine job at cutting 4/4 with the 3 blades, but 6/4 will make it work. you can never to wrong with more power....

Fla._Deadheader · December 09, 2005, 08:56:58 PM

10 HP electric is about equal to 25 HP gasoline. ;)

Ron Wenrich · December 09, 2005, 09:46:10 PM

Rule-of-thumb 5 hp/blade per 1" of wood. It will cut at lower hp rates, but it won't do what you need on all types of wood or thicknesses. Try 1" hickory on undersized power and see how your boards pull.

Fred · December 10, 2005, 02:13:50 AM

I have one of the old belsaw edgers fixin to put a 4 cyl. Wisconsin on it . I liked the feed spurs better than the serrated shaft. I called Timberking about some parts for It and a Belsaw sawmill they said it might take a couple of weeks to gather the info but they would call me back. Its been over 2 months. guess they forgot about me..
Fred

dail_h · December 10, 2005, 09:09:44 PM

I got a 13 Hona on my Norwood 2x does make it huff 'n puff a little. It use sprokets lined up 'cross a shaft for infeed,works good .

UNCLEBUCK · December 10, 2005, 10:18:35 PM

Here is a pic of what I ended up doing as I bought the edger with all rotten wood so I built on two 6x6 skids so I could pull it anywhere on the farm . It came with a smaller wisconsin motor but I had a 4 cyl extra on a old grain swather so I took the gas tank and throttle as well. I can run at idle or wide open but idle seems plenty fast . I plan on using it alot this spring for dimensional lumber . Is it possible to add a 3rd blade ? My shirt is laying on top of the small wisconsin motor but I cant remember if its a single banger or not . I thought it was a joke as the pulley is made for starting by hand like a old john deere so I took the plug out and put a small squirt of gas in and I give it a flip and found myself diving from a bright orange ball of flame and a boom so I put the plug back in and sure enough the DanG thing starts very easy . The previous owner used it alot for 2 inch white oak and he said it worked very good with that little motor . I tighten the belts by sliding the motor mounts"angle iron" and nail a wood block behind it .

I bought it for 400$ and all rotten but a new box of teeth came with . Kevin H if you get time would you ever have a couple more pictures of yours that shows the whole machine ?

highpockets · December 11, 2005, 06:53:02 AM

Thanks guys,

Based on what I am hearing I think I'll try the TJD Wisconsin. It has 2 cylinders and I'm guessing it is 12 h.p. or better. My friend whom I'm doing this for has a 4 cylinder Winconsin but it needs some work.

Ron Wenrich · December 11, 2005, 07:34:14 AM

UB

You can add as many blades as you like, but you won't be able to make them movable unless you have another slider and adjuster. Most gang saws are on that type of principle where they have a bunch of stationary saws mounted togeter.

For a gang type setting, you might want to set a stationary at 4" or 6" on the none movable side, whichever you are making the most.

woodhick · December 11, 2005, 05:51:58 PM

highpockets, sorry for the delay in responding. I have copied the book and will drop it in the mail tomorrow. As far as payment ;D ;D. None accepted, just help me or someone else here on the forum someday. Hope this helps and good luck. Someone posted they were having trouble getting parts. I would advise them to call again. I ordered a scale and ip wrench for mine backin the summer and got it within a week. ;)

Kevin_H. · December 11, 2005, 05:58:35 PM

Here are a couple of more pics that were in the old gallery, We never run anything over 4' long so we shortened up the rollers quite a bit which saves us space, we also put in on wheels, but they didnt last too long. :D

I would think that yours would run the same size hub as ours, we called timber king and bought another hub and collar

If you want me to take a pic of anything inparticular let me know, I will back in the shop on tuesday.

highpockets · December 11, 2005, 07:56:20 PM

woodhick,
Thanks very much for the manual. Yes, I always try to help. That is what life is about. My main interest is in machining and sometimes opportunities come along to help another machinist. No I am a metal butcher.