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Calling all Hudson owners

Started by rvrdivr, December 02, 2005, 06:14:15 PM

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rvrdivr

Well I have about had it with the stock blade guides that came on my machine. I was wondering what would be the best guide to upgrade to? What have you all done??
I am running a Oscar36.

Thanks,
Brian

arj

do you have hudson guides or carter guides?  My osacr 2  (same as oscar 36) came with carter guides, They were very hard to adjust and didn`t stay put long either. Changed to hudson`s own guides they are easy to adjust and don`t seam to move out of adjustment very often.
                                 
                                          arj

Dan_Shade

the guides on my Oscar 28 are not good.  i'm not quite sure what to do to fix them.  it's even bigger than the guides themselves, the whole arm that slides in and out has a lot of room for improvement.
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Radar67

Quote from: Dan_Shade on December 02, 2005, 10:38:21 PM
the whole arm that slides in and out has a lot of room for improvement.

Dan, tell me about it!  ;D I am not at all satisfied with the guide arm. I've been trying to figure out a better way, but have had little time to ponder the solution.  ;D

I'm not sure what can be done about the guides, but I am looking at some guides from Cook Saw. Hopefully I can replace them.

According to the Hudson Manual on my 28, the guides are only suppose to contact the blade top and bottom. The rear guide should be 1/16 inch from the back edge of the blade. No pressure from the blade on the guides at all. This makes it tough to level the blade to the log deck.

Stew
"A man's time is the most valuable gift he can give another." TOM

If he can cling to his Blackberry, I can cling to my guns... Me

This will kill you, that will kill you, heck...life will kill you, but you got to live it!

"The man who can comprehend the why, can create the how." SFC J

rvrdivr

Arj I have the stock guides not the carter. I don't think there the same as what Hudson is using now though.  I though that the carter guides were good?

QuoteThe rear guide should be 1/16 inch from the back edge of the blade. No pressure from the blade on the guides at all. This makes it tough to level the blade to the log deck

Thats what I don't understand. If the blade doesn't make contact with the rear bearing, it is digging in to the back of the guide. Whats the bearing for if its not going to be used. I let my blade touch that bearing but I have to replace them every 15 hours or so.

I'll be gone for the weekend but when I get back I'll try to U/L a picture of my guide.

Thanks Guys!

twostroke_blood

Do you guys have the welded guides? I bought the new machined guides through Hudson and they are real nice. Except of course for the price. But like anything good, you pay.



I destroyed my first set of guides on this thing.


D._Frederick

rvrdivr,

What is causing the back-up bearing to fail in 15 hrs?

Radar67

Quote from: D._Frederick on December 03, 2005, 11:31:39 AM
rvrdivr,

What is causing the back-up bearing to fail in 15 hrs?


I'm wondering the same thing myself. The back bearing should keep the blade from pushing too far back when it is under pressure. My back bearing has a line on it where the blade rides under pressure, but it has not failed. I have the origional welded bearings on my saw.

Stew
"A man's time is the most valuable gift he can give another." TOM

If he can cling to his Blackberry, I can cling to my guns... Me

This will kill you, that will kill you, heck...life will kill you, but you got to live it!

"The man who can comprehend the why, can create the how." SFC J

arj

rvrdivr
It sounds like you have carter guides with the back of the blade rubbing against the flat side of the bearing. My carters did the same thing stoped turning and cut deep groves in them. Try a little rust reaper on them and make sure they turn freely. With the hudson guides the bearing is flat and the blade rubs against the edge. You still need to check and make sure they turn. When I cut oak and ket them sit still  for a day or three they sometimes   get a little stiff.
twostroke if you think hudson`s guides are expensive check out the price of carter
                                    arj

Tom

Just as a general note, the "back wheel" should be very close to the blade without touching it, while the blade is not under cutting pressure.   Once the blade enters the wood, it is moved backwards and needs the support of the "back wheels" to 1) hold it on the bandwheel and 2) to give the blade rigidity so that it doesn't wander.

If the "back wheel" is in contact with the blade all of the time there are two things that can happen and both are bad.  The first is that the band may not be allowed to track on the bandwheel and these "wandering" stresses will cause the band to develop stress cracks in the back of the band.

The second problem is that the bearings of the "back wheel" are being punished unneccesarily and their life diminished drastically by not giving them a chance to "rest" and cool off between cuts.

The distance that is recommended between the band and the "backwheel" may vary by manufacturer, but, it should be  minimal.  If the band is allowed to be pushed too far to the rear seeking support, then wandering may occur and blade life limited.  I shoot for a sixteenth of an inch, or so, and make sure that both are equally adjusted.

rvrdivr

Thanks Tom that makes a lot of sense. Those bearings are touching and running the whole time. Maybe that's why there wearing out so fast. I'll try keeping them backed off a little like was suggested.
D._Frederick and Radar67 I think Tom hit on why. I too have a groove in the bearings after a while of use. I was paying $13. for those but I just found them for $6. Also I never thought about the acids having a hand in there demise.

Thanks Y'all :)

Frank_Pender

You folks got me a bit concerned now.  I will have to take a look at my berrings on the Oscar 36. :'(  the only wandering I have found is due to dull blads or hitting nails. :-[
Frank Pender

Fla._Deadheader


Rvrdiver, I built a set like you have. Didn,t last long. I bought Cooks and have changed bearings 1 time. The guides were used when I got them.
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

rvrdivr

O.k., so far I hear Carter guides are not a good choice?.

So what do you all think about the cooks?

Have any of y'all used anything else? ???  What might be my other options?

Since I haven't seen much of the other brand name mills, I wonder if there are guides running on the other mills that I could incorporate to mine??

Thanks for the support.

Brian



Fla._Deadheader


Cook's and WM look about identical. With the amount of mills these folks produce, I see no reason to not use them. That's what we did.

  Wait'll ya run them Heart Pines. You will get a REAL education.  ;D ;D ;D :D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Frank_Pender

I do have an unrelated question that just occured yesterday for me and my Oscar 36.   I had a fella stop by the purchase some Maple Burl and low and be hold, the DanG switch or something that raises and lowers the unit only worked one way, down.  I resersed the wires and all, thinking that may be the problems, no go.  I rand the cable out and reversed that operation and still only one direction.  HELP?
Frank Pender

arj

Frank
The switch is a pain, you can take it apart and clean the contacts (only works sometimes)  be careful the little parts like to fall out and run and hide. A cheep double pole switch won`t work & a snowplow switch won`t work either, because of the internal circuits.  You can order a new one from supper winch, or from hudson.  The newest hudson mills have a relay independant of the switch, so when the switch quits you can use any double pole switch. I think this is the way to go. I`m on my third switch, the first one supper winch replaced no charge. Problems start  new switch coms with new box and hardware. new switch won`t fit in the old one. The next time  it goes I order a new one from supper winch  it`s  $50.00.  I tell them I  just want the switch not a hole new setup.  You cant buy just yhe switch, My next one will be the hudson arangement. A double pole swicth is 5 or 6 bucks.
                        arj

Frank_Pender

Thanks, arj.  I will try and get it figured out.  There is no way to muscle something else into the system  for a switch, ya? :'(
Frank Pender

arj

Frank
I tryed a myers snow switch it has 6 prongs like the winch, would not work. my son said he could probably wire it externaly and make it work. He was an electronics tek, never got around to trying it. That`s when supper winch sent a free replacement.  The next time it goes I`m going to try the hudson deal.  They say that with the relay mounted on top of the saw next to the winch it will get a lot lees dust in it. Also sawing pine more this year it has lasted longer than when I saw oak.  The one I cleaned only lasted a month or so.  Good luck
                                     arj

wiam

I set my raise/lower winch up with 4 starter solenoids and a self centering single pole three position switch.  I have been told I could have done it with two special continuois (sp) duty solenoids for the same money.

Will

Frank_Pender

I just got in from fooling around with the switch itself.  I took it apart and cleaned under the switch inside the little box and still only one direction.   I dislike this sort of thing, emensely. >:(   :'(
Frank Pender

arj

Frank
I think what Wiam did is what my son was talking about. I`ll see him on monday and see what he says.
                                                      arj

Frank_Pender

Thanks, Wiam, but I will have to get someone that understands that kind of thing.   I am pretty simple minded of lots of stuff like this problem. :'(
Frank Pender

rvrdivr

Ok, to summarize all this up, this is what I did. I found the bearings I needed at Napa for half what I was paying ($6.00) and fixed what I had. I adjusted the back bearings to stand off the back of the blade about 1/16 of an inch while free running. The bearing makes contact when the blade makes contact with wood but only then. Maybe this will work better? We'll see.

Thanks for all the help :)

bhub

what are the bearing numbers at napa I need to change mine
thanks

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