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Trailer Plans

Started by jrokusek, November 21, 2005, 05:29:01 PM

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jrokusek

So now that my homemade, redneck bandmill is almost done I'm thinking that I need some way to move all the logs that I'll be gathering.  Actually....not that many logs...I'm just a hobbyist/woodworker...but I gotta move 'em somehow.  So I'm thinking I want to build a trailer next.

I've got my heart set on about an 8' to 12' utility trailer.  Not super heavy-duty but one that I can use and abuse with logs and the usual stuff you put on a trailer.  Don't know where I'll get the wood for the decking  :D  :D  :D

I've done a fairly extensive internet search for free plans and they just aren't out there.  I've seen some that come from Ebay and they look like they are drawn in MS Paint.  I want some decent plans and am willing to PAY FOR THEM! 

I found a set at northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company:  http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200308247&R=200308247       I've had good luck with their products in the past - but has anyone ever bought their plans?  Anyone have any other suggestions?  

Jim in Sioux Falls, SD

rebocardo

Here are some free plans, what you buy at northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company are not likely to be any better.

http://www.championtrailers.com/UTILITY_TRAILER_KITS.HTM

jrokusek

Thanks for the point in the right direction.  What do you suppose the thickness of that steel angle is - 1/4" or so?  I guess I could get out my calipers and drive around town until I find a trailer and take a measurement.....

I just don't know how thick the angle steel should be.

Jim

sawguy21

That is a great site. They are probably talking 1/8 inch angle as it is very common but I would use channel for the rails. A lot stronger with little weight difference.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

MemphisLogger

I built my 14' trailer based on those Champion trailer plans.

We used 1/4" 2x4 mitered channel around the outside and on the tongue and 1/4" 3x3 angle for the cross braces--all scrap/no money  :)

4/4 white oak decking culled from top of drying pile--no money  :)

Axle/hubs, coupler, fenders and light kit from Champion ran $400.  ::)

It has carried more than 8000lbs more than once.  ;D

Pics to follow this evening  ;)
Scott Banbury, Urban logger since 2002--Custom Woodworker since 1990. Running a Woodmizer LT-30, a flock of Huskies and a herd of Toy 4x4s Midtown Logging and Lumber Company at www.scottbanbury.com

Modat22

A friend of mine builds all sorts of trailers, He told me that the design isn't all that important, what is important is the where your axles are located.

Basically you want your axle mounted 60 percent of the length from the tongue back, If you mount 2 axles you want the middle distance between the 2 axles 65 percent back.

Don't mount your coupler until you have your axles mounted, then center your hitch coupler with the axles.

I basically copied his instructions from an email and pasted them here.

Good luck
remember man that thy are dust.

Dakota

I built this trailer using the plans from northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company.  The plans were well thought out, big, and easy to follow.  I beefed it up a little as I put a 6,000 lb. axel under it.  I used 2"x4" channel for the frame and 2"x2" for the cross beams.  I took pictures as I built it.  If interested, email me and I'll send them to you.

Dakota
Dave Rinker

jrokusek

Dakota - sent you an e-mail......would love to see the pictures.  I'm going to swing by the steel shop over lunch and see if they have anything on their "surplus" pile that they want to sell for cheap.  I doubt it....but I gotta take a look.

Thanks everyone for all your help and input!

Jim

jrokusek

Checked out the surplus stuff while I had lunch.  Did find some nice 3x3x1/4 angle that would work out fine.  The channel was all 6" stuff that I think is about 12 to 13 pounds per foot.  Little of an overkill of you ask me.  I'll keep digging!

Jim

jrokusek

Looks like someone edited da posts.  Don't know how I'll get dat der trailer built with dat der new fangled vocabulary!   :D  ;D  :D

If I would have looked at existing trailers on the internet I'd get all the info I need to know.  Look at:  http://www.pj-trailers.com/products/details.php?id=US

Here are the spec's:  3" Channel Tongue & Frame,  3/16" Angle Crossmembers on 24" Centers, 2" Coupler (7,000 lb rating), Single 3,500lb axle w/ 15" wheels & tires.  That's about 90% of what I need to know.

Here's another good site for wannabe trailer builders:  http://www.trailerplans.com/tech_support.htm
Dis yooper is gonna buy 10 pounds of welding rods and is gonna get da welder fired up!

Jim




MemphisLogger

YOOPEREE!

We got this here 60 something inch chunk o' oak on our Champion plan 40/60 trailer no problem. Don't ask how we got it off  :D
Scott Banbury, Urban logger since 2002--Custom Woodworker since 1990. Running a Woodmizer LT-30, a flock of Huskies and a herd of Toy 4x4s Midtown Logging and Lumber Company at www.scottbanbury.com

Furby

I belive this was the pic you were planning on posting, and just for fun...... the story too! smiley_big-grin2



https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=8757.0

Modat22

Yikes! thats a nice log.
remember man that thy are dust.

rebocardo

As to thickness of steel, all the prebuilts I have measued at trailer places are 1/8 angle for the 7K tandem axles. Tongues are thicker metal sometimes.

I would go with either 3/16 or 1/4 for a trailer meant for logs. I would put a much heavier rear cross member for a bumper on back and attach a pintle hook to it for towing and dragging other things while you have the trailer attached.


Murf

If'n yer gonna load logs on dat trailer, do yerself a favour too, put some sorta blocking, jack stands or sumat, where the loading will happen.

Dat way ya won't bend da axle stub or frame rail from puttin all da load ina one spot too much.   :o

Build'n sumtin is fun, build'n it twice is not so much fun.  :D
If you're going to break a law..... make sure it's Murphy's Law.

jrokusek

Found some 3" by 1.5" by 3/16" channel cheap!  Too bad it's full of holes!  Currently is surplus pallet racking.



rebocardo

If that is pallet racking, it is excellent stuff, structural steel. I build a truck bed out of that. It is more then 1/4" in the radius. Try to see if you can get the 5x5 x 3/16 square tubing for the posts, it makes a great bumper.

jgoodhart

Build it good and heavy because there always one ;D or two ;D somtimes 3  8)logs left to load after the trailer is full and logs stack real good. If your truck will pull it your going to loader on.

Ironwood

Bet there are no trailer brakes to help that  Toyota stop that massive log. Reid
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

MemphisLogger

You're right on that Reid--we had volunteers blocking both directions on the cross street at the bottom of the hill and halfway down the block straight ahead.  :-\

From that point it was to be no more than 15 mph all the way back to the shop.

I'm kinda glad we didn't do it--feel much safer now with the F-600.  ;)
Scott Banbury, Urban logger since 2002--Custom Woodworker since 1990. Running a Woodmizer LT-30, a flock of Huskies and a herd of Toy 4x4s Midtown Logging and Lumber Company at www.scottbanbury.com

jrokusek

Quote from: rebocardo on November 24, 2005, 04:27:53 PM
If that is pallet racking, it is excellent stuff, structural steel. I build a truck bed out of that. It is more then 1/4" in the radius. Try to see if you can get the 5x5 x 3/16 square tubing for the posts, it makes a great bumper.


What do you mean by posts?  Is that the very front and back of the trailer....the "ends"?  I'm kinda new to the terminology........

rebocardo

Your picture shows just cross members, the heavy duty pallet racks have vertical posts made of 5" x 5"  x 3/16 steel unto which the cross members are hung. Usually 16-20 feet long. On one end will be a metal foot plate about 12"x 12" x 1/2" (makes an excellent winch platform) with four holes that they use to lag the post to the ground.


Furby

Quote from: rebocardo on November 26, 2005, 02:16:26 PM
Your picture shows just cross members, the heavy duty pallet racks have vertical posts made of 5" x 5"

Actually not true.
The pic shows the uprights or posts of some heavy duty pallet racking.
I have taken down/moved a lot of it.
This kind of racking (at least ours did) has dollies on each level that slide on I beams and allow you to stack several colums deep ( I think ours was 5 or 6 deep) and still have several layers high.
Ours had three levels, and we used reusable "styrons" so that we could get two high per dollie, per level.

That stuff will make a nice trailer.
For my use, I would use it for a mid size trailer. It would be a bit over kill for a smaller utility trailer, but should work fine for a 5 or 6' x12'. depending on what loads you are planning on. 
Single or Double axel?

jrokusek

Since it's my first trailer I was going to go for a 3500 pound, single axle trailer.   12' long, wasn't sure about the width.  I called the place and they want $60 per piece of this racking.  I need to check steel prices at my local steel shop.  I may be able to but 2 pieces of channel for about $60 and not need to disassemble it.

Furby

That is the size trailer I am trying to get right now.
I'll be perfectly happy with 1/8" angle for the frame work.
I need a light weight trailer that has a little more room then my 4'x8', actually I will probly settle on a 5'x10'.
Every pound you put into the frame, takes away from the capacity. ;)
If lighter weight steel will take the load, no point in building it heavier.

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