Which Mill to Buy for a beginner

[broker farmer]

Being new to both this forum and the insatiable desire (obsession) to start cutting my own lumber, I'd like your alls opinion on which mill to buy to start with.  I have cut wood all my life for heat, but have never sawed a log.  I am overwhelmed with the dazzling array of shiny paint  and "ours is the best" literature. 
I need to build a barn (72x32) that will require a lot of  16' material.  I need the usual, 2x4,2x6,2x8, 6x6 etc.  My logs are white oak and red oak.  I'm not really wanting to open up a can of worms here, BUT........in your opinion, which mill will suit me best?  I'm hoping that many of you have "been there and done that" and can offer me some reliable information.  I will be sawing in my spare time but would consider doing some custom work after I have completed my project.  Thanks for all your help.

[raycon]

The best mill would be one from a sponsor to the left. I'd click on each one and then call each one and tell them what you're trying to do and what your budget is. Search the forum while at it.  Lot of options.

[Tom]

If you are considering some custom sawing after your barn is built then don't skimp on log handling devices and horsepower. 

Customers will come out of the Woodwork.....  so to speak.  Its difficult to cut for others and limit your sawing to a log or two a day.  You will need a mill that will not be intimidated by a stack of 20 logs.   If you earn a good reputation,  you may find yourself standing at the bottom of mountains of them.  :D

[Coon]

Check the for sale section.  There is usually a mill or two for sale that is owned by one of our members and I'm sur that they'd be glad to sell to you and to help you get started.  They'd probably even let you demo the mill before you purchase.

[brdmkr]

You are at the right site!  As you do your research, I think you will find that there are benefits and tradeoffs associated with each type of mill.  Once you decide just how much sawing you will want to do, what size logs you want to handle, etc., I can guarantee that there are folks here that can steer you in the right direction.  Also, you may want to contact the sponsors and get them to send you some material.  Most of them have videos that are great.  Just by watching the videos, you will see things that will and will not work for your particular situation.

Welcome to the forum.

[Lud]

Being a newbie to sawing (but not to building) I'd suggest you're biting off a lot all at once.  Do you have place to store the lumber you make until you can build the barn?  Are the logs already down and sealed?  It'd have to be a big pile!  What about drying time?  Do you know how dry the wood needs to be before you can build with it?  There's a big learning curve to sawing and it takes a lot of cutting  to learn no matter how much we learn reading at our computers.

Maybe if you  had one of the portable guys come in ,  you could work with them and see how the pro makes lumber and then look at getting at least a bay of the structure started  so you can get your mill and start the learning curve on how to make your own lumber and have a place to store it. Saw for a while and then switch back and build the next bay , etc.   It'll take  a lot of time and building codes,  contractor availability,  and even the changes of the seasons will affect your timeline because that's a big project.

We can all do amazing things given time and the energy,  but you  have to stay in balance and pace yourself!

If you've figured out how to clone yourself and do the work of ten men , I'd like to order some.


Welcome to the Forum! 8)

[Jason_WI]

Don't skimp on HP no matter what brand you go with.  If you are able to move 16 footers with a loader then you could get by with a manual mill. Turning a 16' log on the mill depending on the size can be a challenge alone. The 60" cant hook from LogRite makes it a much easier task on my manual mill. If you are going to use white and red oak at 16' long you are going to want a hydraulic log loader and log turner at a minimum. Carrying 16' anything is hard work let alone a 16' oak 2x4. Think hard about your setup so that handling the heavy stuff won't kill you.

Don't forget about blades and setting/sharpening equipment if you want to sharpen your own. I decided that my time is better spent cutting wood than sharpening my own blades. I buy my blades from Wood-mizer and send mine to Wood-mizer Resharp when they get dull and they come back perfect every time.

Jason

[broker farmer]

I'd like to thank each of you for your  input.  It was all good.  Lud, I especially liked your idea to get a sawyer to come in and show me the ropes at the beginning.  It would be good to watch and learn before buying my own mill.  I haven't learned how to clone myself yet, but I'm, working on it.  Like you say: perserverance!  I live on a farm in Missouri and have built 3 of my own barns by myself.  I've learned that there is always tomorrow, and if tomorrow doesn't show up............my current project ain't gonna matter anyhow!
I did find a used mill for sale in the "for Sale" section.  I'm excited about getting started.  Thanks again for everyones help!
One question, can someone explain to me the benefits of "sealing" the logs after they have been cut?  How long does this help?

[ronwood]

broker farmer

Take a look at the members map you might find someone down near you to visit. Your welcome to come up to see my mill. May be a little more that you are looking for but would give you an idea of how things work.

Ron

[Tom]

One question, can someone explain to me the benefits of "sealing" the logs after they have been cut?  How long does this help?

Sealing is mostly done on hardwoods, but some conifers benefit as well.

Picture a log as a bunch of straws tied together.  The tubes let the nutrients and water go up the tree.  That keeps the wood cells alive and soft, like a water balloon.

when you cut a tree, the water runs out of the ends of the tubes.  The closer you are to where the trunk was severed, the faster it runs out.  The result is that the ends of a cut log (or a board) will dry faster than the middle because the water just runs out of the ends.

Sealing holds the water in the tubes and forces the log/board to dry through its sides.   This controlled water release prevents "end splitting" where the wood has shrunk faster than the rest of the tree and cracks formed.  Once end splitting starts, it is difficult, if not impossible, to stop.  The sooner the ends of the logs are sealed, the better chance there is that end splitting can be curtailed.

Some folks use old paint.  Their are commercial products that work a lot better.  A whole lot better. 

[BigTrev]

best thing to do is find out what you want to be milling, whats going to be in steady sustainable supply and maybe have a chat to a couple of different equipment consultants about what their mills can do for you. I guess the best advice would really be, shop around. Everyone will always say their mill is better but ask for real facts and benefits like on going costs, maintenance and versatility of the mill vs the intended logs

[Frank_Pender]

Broker Farmer, I had never owned a mill in my life and not worked around a mill.  I had not found what I wanted in searching for three years and began gathering the materials to build my own.   While at a Tree Farm tour about 12 years ago, I saw what I wanted.  I watched for three hours and when the wife and I left, I said I was going to sell the rental house in another town and buy the mill I had been watching for three hours.    Twelve or fifteen years later I have two of what I was watching, a small New York produced mill and 6 man head rig mill.  (ZPS, you can only have one wife, but lots of mills and chainsaws.) 8)

[Frank_Pender]

I sure killed this thread. :-[

[beenthere]

'cause you didn't mention 'food' maybe  ??? 8) :D :D

[DanG]

You didn't kill it, Frank.  You just put it in a little coma until I could get here with the true scoop. : ;D :D :D :D

B-F, if you're considering a new mill, look no further than the sponsor list to the left.  I don't think it is a coincidence that the best place on the 'net is sponsored by the best companies in the industry.  They are the ones that bother to know what your wants and needs are, and their presence here is just an indicator of that.

If you're looking for a used mill, there are bunches of them available, so it just boils down to what type you want, and how much you can spend.  I found the most bang for my buck with a used(very!) Mobile Dimension Saw.  I happen to be a fan of this type mill.  I think the learning curve is much more gentle, as you just pull the handle and it cuts in a straight line.  That leaves you free to worry about the log and the board, rather than having to think about the mill.  The D&L mill, which you can find on the left of your screen, works the same way.  I'd love to have one of them, as they are a real Caddillac, but they just haven't been around long enough for there to be a bunch of old ones in my price range. :-\

The band mills and swing-blade mills are  well represented to your left, as well.  Both of those types will make nice lumber, and come in a wide range of prices and capabilities.

You've taken the most important step already.  You've joined The ForestryForum, and that will mean more than any of the choices you will face later. ;)

[Octoman]

One thing is for sure broker farmer when you buy a mill, your mental arithmatic will improve dramatically!  Very important especially when the pressure is on infront of a customer!! :P :D

[Max sawdust]

I just bought a used Wood Mizer LT 15 from a member of this forum.  I am not saying it is the right milll for you.  Do the research it is fun   I have several "dream mills" that I would like to own someday.

I too strongly suggest hiring a good expecienced sawyer and saw for a few days before buying a mill.  See how it is done properly.
max

[TexasTimbers]

B-F, you have enough advice but I can't stop myself :D I just want to stress what Tom and others touched on ... you really do want to buy as much HP and Hydraulics as you can afford. I would not even suggest a manual mill to anyone unless thay are only going into it as a hobby, and even then you have to consider that becoming a Sawyer Hobbyist is rare, because when you get the dust in your veins you're always trying to find time to open up logs, and then you realize "why didn't I buy a REAL mill!".
Anyway, if you can afford it, go hydraulic. Although you can find sawyers who say manual is fine, it's just a pain the back if you ask me ;)
I don't say things like "any of our sponsors are worth a look" just BECAUSE they are sponsors, but in this case it's all true. ALL of the sponsors on this forum have quality products. I have done business with several from Minominee to Rust Reaper (excellent product!) to Log Rite, Bailey's,  Norwood (if you DO buy a manual mill they have excellent customer service), and someday soon I hope to be doing business with one of them concerning a certain mill with LOTS of diesel HP and gobs of hydraulics. Hmmmm, all I gotta do is decide which color I want ...... :
Good luck.

[TexasTimbers]

... you really do want to buy as much HP and Hydraulics as you can afford.

Well, just to clarify a bit, I know I said you should buy as much HP and Hyd as you can afford yet common  sense says you should only buy as much as you need.
But of course, if you can afford a top-of-the-line mill then it just so happens that that is exactly how much mill you need :D

[Fred]

I just bought a Blue Mill from one of our sponsors in Missouri
It is a very nice mill.
                                 Fred