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scraped up walnut logs

Started by Robert R, November 14, 2005, 10:30:52 PM

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Robert R

A friend at church turned me onto a walnut tree.  It was uprooted by a road crew and is lying down with probably a dozen oaks.  He wants the oaks for firewood but said I could pack off the walnut.  It is 17" dbh.  I'll get 3 clear 7 foot logs out of it.  The only problem is, whatever they pushed it over and drug it off with seriously debarked and tore up the outer bit of the wood just under the bark--half inch at the most.  I know it will still cut decent boards but I don't know how much I should expect to be dinged, if at all, when I take them to the mill.  Any ideas?  With the mill I am currently selling to, I'd expect the logs to bring $1.50 for the butt log and $1.00 for the next 2 up.  Sorry I don't have any pics.
chaplain robert
little farm/BIG GOD

Ron Wenrich

If they're clear, why cut them to 7'.  Veneer grades ususally need at least an 8' butt, and it brings a whole lot more. 

As for the damage, it doesn't sound like much.  Bark falls off of trees for a variety of reasons, especially in the spring.  Most mills have a debarker that takes it off.

As long as the ding isn't too deep, it will come off in the first slab.  I've seen gouges caused by dozer teeth or grapples that can be pretty deep.  It still not much of a defect when the log is positioned right.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Robert R

I never have found a place to sell veneer to.  The mill I sell takes 7 feet as the shortest length and 12 as the longest.  On smaller logs like this one, I just assumed I'd get more boardfeet out of it as 3 7 foot logs than 2 longer logs using the Doyle scale but as I sit here and look at my scale pondering your reply, my theory isn't holding water.  I haven't cut them yet.  Maybe I should cut a 12 and a 9?  Everytime I think I have something figured out, I always wind up with more questions than answers. 

The buyer I use will save the really good logs and resell to a veneer buyer and he does give me more for them but not usually for anything under 20 inches.  So I was just assuming size-wise these wouldn't make veneer regardless of being clear.  He saves them until he has a semi load and then brings in an out of state log broker.  I can't sit on logs like that yet--my landowners want their cash sooner than that.  I have found a place within driving distance to take the better logs to but I was kind of waiting until a had a job that I could bring at least 1,000 feet of really good logs to in order to make a good first impression.  I also don't want to mess up my relationship with my current mill by only taking him the smaller stuff.  He'll buy anything down to 10 inches but doesn't want whole loads of just the little ones.
chaplain robert
little farm/BIG GOD

Ron Wenrich

Some mills will give you better pay for longer lengths.  It is a lot easier to get grade from longer logs, even if they have a little defect.

20" for a veneer log is a little on the large side.  Veneer buyers normally take down to 14".  I would speculate that some of those smaller sawlogs make it to the log broker.

I think the last price I heard on walnut was around $4/bf.  Of course, there's some delivery fees on that. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

SwampDonkey

Quote from: Ron Wenrich on November 15, 2005, 04:49:04 PM
20" for a veneer log is a little on the large side.  Veneer buyers normally take down to 14".  I would speculate that some of those smaller sawlogs make it to the log broker.

I agree with Ron, and in fact Frasers Sawmills in New Brunswick will buy oversize (28 + butts) and pay you sawlog price, then turn around and haul them to their veneer mill in Maine which at one time paid $1000/th, but we can't haul there.  >:(
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Frickman

Like Ron said, cut them at least 8', and not exactly 8'. You must leave 4" to 6" trim, or it will be knocked back to 7'. Don't get caught up in the scale/footage game. Yes, you may scale out more board feet in doyle with three short logs over two long logs, but you'll lose it in price/board foot. The best thing to do is cut the logs where the tree tells you to. Buck them wherever there's a crook or bend, and try to "push" the defects into upper logs. In other words, cut straight logs, that's the most important thing. Second, if you have a straight tree, and the butt makes a 10' clear log, and then defects start, cut there and leave the defects in the second log. Most trees, when you study them, will tell you where to buck them.
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Retired  Conventional hand-felling logging operation with cable skidder and forwarder, Frick 01 handset sawmill

Pretend farmer when I have the time

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